Tubing Condition and Advice for Installations Taken Down After the Season

[Ghs57]

2 Questions:

Part 1: My tubing system is taken down at the end of the season. Normally, I rinse and sanitize the lines, then re-roll and store everything for the next year. Last year I was in disposed for several months after the season, so this did not happen. Late last year I when I checked my lines I noticed there was a huge amount of black slime in the lines. Are the lines OK to use after this? I'm leaning towards replacing it all (2,000-2,500ft of 3/16) because the lines are visible to anyone wandering by, and I don't want to give the impression that my collection/processing is not sanitary. Also, some of my older Leader tubing is prone the pull part at the fittings, and this always happens at the most inaccessible sections of the line, so I am about ready to replace that 1,000ft or so anyway. Most of the drops are on their second or third season, so also ready to be replaced this year or next.

Part B: Since this is a take down system, I need an easier way to hang the lines instead of wrapping the tree. This method is a nightmare to take down, particularly if I am not the one doing it. I have some ideas for tying off the lines to each tree with paracord, but curious what method others may use or recommend.

[buckeye gold]

I would toss it all. For 150-200 dollars you can purchase all new. I cut out and replace any of my line that gets the black mold. I do a good sanitizing flush at the end of season and I have some lines going on 5 years with only a few spots from year to year, a lot have none. If I find a spot I cut the line opposite the closest tap then run all new tubing to that tee and put in a new tee. It cost me a little in new tubing, but pretty darn cheap when I consider how clean my line is. I never rap my lines only go around trees. Use side ties for tension and that will be a easier take down.

[Ghs57]

Yeah, I am inclined to agree.

Do you have an example of your side ties?

[Sugarmaker]

Gary,
I dont have any systems that long, but mine has to come down each year too. I developed a tightening system for the 30 short run tubing systems that we service. Each has 10 to 25 taps all 5/16. the system consists of parts and pieces/fittings that you can buy from various suppliers. My runs are only 50 to 100 feet long. I have a tightening system at each end. Allows for set up and tear down with no tools, also allows lines to be tightened on each end of the system. This is only gravity systems, but I guess could work on vacuum too.
Regards,
Chris

[Ghs57]

That system sounds pretty good. My 5 long runs are on a hillside, so 3/16 works great. My 3 flat runs on the lunchbox are also quite long, although fewer taps on each line. Long runs are what makes the takedown so difficult; you have a huge coil of tubing. Add to that unwrapping the tree and it's enough to make you quit this.

[Sugarmaker]

Gary,
I hear you. You can see hanging above the front of the evaporator the 30 systems of 5/16. Its like doing a lot of Christmas lights! Maybe you can come up with a reel on the side of a dolly?
https://i.imgur.com/C8BJQLn.jpg
Regards,
Chris

[sap creek]

If the lines become to long cut at a tee mark with colored electrical tape . Next year install your line with a new tee .

[Trapper2]

Chris, how do you mark the lines to know where they go the following season?

[DougM]

We have to take ours down as well (5/16"). We use 3 lunchboxes in two woods, about 400', 1,000' & 1,200' from the tanks. We got some wire spools from our local electric utility & wrap our tubing on those. On the longest ones we use one for the home runs, and one for each system from the lunchbox out. We use a label maker & cover the labels with clear tape so they will last, but the sap & air lines are just marked with colored tape.
20600

We really don't tie off to or go completely around any trees, except for the home runs to keep them off the ground. We tied off a lot the first year we did 3/16", then noticed systems we were seeing pictures of didn't have ties so we left them off & saved a lot of time. If you do need to tie off there's a good method explained in this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QQX9L1KnBh8. And even if you don't use the "finger cuff" method he describes the hollow-braid rope is pretty inexpensive if you order a big spool from Amazon, and grips the tubing well.

[Ghs57]

Gary,
I hear you. You can see hanging above the front of the evaporator the 30 systems of 5/16. Its like doing a lot of Christmas lights! Maybe you can come up with a reel on the side of a dolly?
https://i.imgur.com/C8BJQLn.jpg
Regards,
Chris

That looks familiar. When rinsed out, mine go back into several 55gal plastic drums (used from Bascome's - they are also used for sap collection and permeate storage in season).

[Ghs57]

We have to take ours down as well (5/16"). We use 3 lunchboxes in two woods, about 400', 1,000' & 1,200' from the tanks. We got some wire spools from our local electric utility & wrap our tubing on those. On the longest ones we use one for the home runs, and one for each system from the lunchbox out. We use a label maker & cover the labels with clear tape so they will last, but the sap & air lines are just marked with colored tape.
20600

We really don't tie off to or go completely around any trees, except for the home runs to keep them off the ground. We tied off a lot the first year we did 3/16", then noticed systems we were seeing pictures of didn't have ties so we left them off & saved a lot of time. If you do need to tie off there's a good method explained in this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QQX9L1KnBh8. And even if you don't use the "finger cuff" method he describes the hollow-braid rope is pretty inexpensive if you order a big spool from Amazon, and grips the tubing well.

I'll watch that. I tag my lines with blue painter's tape and a sharpie - it actually holds up surprisingly well. Same thing if I have to break a line, which is almost a necessity. I have names for each line, like Stream, or Cottage, and the infamous Split Tree and Number 4, among others. I use the hollow braid rope on my Cottage line. I'm looking forward to doing things a little differently this season.

[Sugarmaker]

Chris, how do you mark the lines to know where they go the following season?

I cut a piece of plastic from a gallon plastic jug and slip it over the downward side of the line. It has the tree owners name and the set number written on it. Some folks/ locations have three or four sets of tubing. I organize them by three groups and put up about 10 sets at a time.
Regards,
Chris

[Trapper2]

I cut a piece of plastic from a gallon plastic jug and slip it over the downward side of the line. It has the tree owners name and the set number written on it. Some folks/ locations have three or four sets of tubing. I organize them by three groups and put up about 10 sets at a time.
Regards,
Chris
Nice, Thank you

[Ghs57]

If you do need to tie off there's a good method explained in this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QQX9L1KnBh8. And even if you don't use the "finger cuff" method he describes the hollow-braid rope is pretty inexpensive if you order a big spool from Amazon, and grips the tubing well.

Turns out I watched that a few years ago, but it was a good refresher. I actually copied his spooling device back then.

[Sugarmaker]

Folks,
Some other options for 5/16 end of line tightening and removal. The CEC LOOP is made from two end rings and a piece of 5/16 30P tubing. Install it prior to putting on your first drop on the end tree. If more than one drop, continue around tree. last drop has a blind tee to stops sap flow towards the LOOP in the blind section. Add a end hook and the system is complete.
https://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee170/Sugarmaker/CEC%20LOOP/IMG_4086.jpg

Uses CDL end rings only! Have not found and others that work good on 5/16 tubing. I use Leader 30P as it is stiff enough to work with the LOOP. Also uses a blind Tee to keep sap out of the line continuing from the last drop around the tree to the CEC LOOP.
The LOOP can slide up and down to tighten the line at both ends of the system if needed.
The end hook which hooks into the sliding LOOP allows for the line to be installed around the end trees and or taken down with no tools.

Here the LOOP also works at a gathering container to keep the line tight from last tree to the container.
https://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee170/Sugarmaker/CEC%20LOOP/IMG_4085.jpg

Regards,
Chris