End of line

[Trapper2]

Very basic question. Say you are gonna run a 200 foot gravity line on 5/16 with 20 taps or so. Do you anchor the top end, stretch, anchor the bottom and then install your drops? Or do you anchor top and then stretch and install drops as you go?
Thanks

[NH Maplemaker]

I stretch from the top to the bottom and then cut in drops with too handed tool, That way you can get the drops right were you want them and take out any extra slack if needed.

[30AcreWoods]

I do what NH Maplemaker does for tapping.

I might add, however, if it's only 20 taps, and you have a decent gradient, I would encourage you to try 3/16 tubing. I develop 27.5 in mercury on my 3/16 lines and sap just pours out.

[tcross]

i start at the last tree and work my way towards the main line, adding in the drops as i go. i find that way i am able to get the line as tight as i can. i use the end line hood on the main line so when i am at that stage, i cut my tubing short, put the fitting in and pull/stretch it to the main line. on the tree end, i have the end of line connector that has the hole in it so i can tighten that further if needed. works well for me. i don't have a two handed tubing tool. if i did, the method the guys below mentioned would work just as well!

[30AcreWoods]

tcross, you make a good point. I should elaborate: I only have a one-handed tool...but I bought some aluminum clips at Bascoms that are notched for both 3/16 and 5/16 tubing, and tied them together with paracord so that I can stretch the tubing at each drop location and have the clips hold the tubing while I cut in the drops. I lose a little tubing along the way at the cut locations, but it's relatively insignificant over the length of a 20-30 drop run.

[unc23win]

We work our way from the farthest tree to the mainline. A 2 handed tool is very nice (and what we use) but since there is no tension on the line until we pull it tight to see where the slide fitting will be you can do it with a one handed tool. We use an end line hook on the farthest tree and slide fitting hooked to wire on mainline. We also put the end line hook on the roll of tubing before we go to the end tree this way we can just wrap it around hook it and go just keep pulling it tight to see where the drops will be. A few inches one way or the other won't make much difference. If you pull the line tight and then cut your drops in it is way harder!

[Trapper2]

tcross, you make a good point. I should elaborate: I only have a one-handed tool...but I bought some aluminum clips at Bascoms that are notched for both 3/16 and 5/16 tubing, and tied them together with paracord so that I can stretch the tubing at each drop location and have the clips hold the tubing while I cut in the drops. I lose a little tubing along the way at the cut locations, but it's relatively insignificant over the length of a 20-30 drop run.

I'm trying to visualize these clips and cord, and I didn't find on Bascoms. Can you supply a picture or link?
Thanks, Trapper

[johnallin]

I'm trying to visualize these clips and cord, and I didn't find on Bascoms. Can you supply a picture or link?
Thanks, Trapper

https://www.bascommaple.com/item/tubth/tools/

[Trapper2]

https://www.bascommaple.com/item/tubth/tools/ Awesome, Thanks. I understand why 2 but not 3.

[SeanD]

The two-handed tool is a godsend for this, but...

If you are doing it with a one handed tool, I recommend the other required tool - the Sharpie. You can hook your line, pull tight then go back and mark where your drops go. Unhook to take tension off and cut in your drops. You'd be amazed at how far off your drops will be from tree to tree if you're tightening and cutting retightening, cutting twenty times per line.

Just before you cut in your drop, draw a straight line about an inch long on the line, running parallel to it. Make your cut perpendicular and through the mark. Then when you reassemble the line the T the natural coil of the line is consistent throughout the run. If you don't watch that, you'll have reverse coiling here and there and your line will worm or snake along.

Sean

[30AcreWoods]

There are 3 because some folks tee in "lateral" lines with additional taps.

I've had good luck with anywhere from 20-30 taps on 3/16 tubing, yielding far more sap over a season than buckets. They regularly pull more than 27-in of mercury due to the gradient. I think Dr. Perkins has previously referenced the research out at Cornell on 3/16 lines, types of taps, dropline replacement intervals, etc., and if you are at all interested in the topic, I strongly recommend reading some of the literature as it is really informative. I use the CV taps and averaged 23-gal sap/tap last year on my 3/16 lines.

[johnallin]

Awesome, Thanks. I understand why 2 but not 3.

The picture is not too clear. All three hooks have a cord running through them, something like this..... .[1]_______[2]_________[3]_____
Attach hook #[1] to your tubing, the #[2] hook goes on the other side of where you're going to cut the tubing to install a fitting. #[3] hook is then pulled back towards -and beyond- #[1] hook.
Pulling on the #[3] hook draws the #1 and #2 hooks closer together. Once #1 and 2 are positioned where you want them, the third is clipped (hooked) onto the lateral.

[Trapper2]

Great explanation. Thanks