New sugar House build

[raptorfan85]

Just thought I'd share my progress on my new sugar House. it's a "post and beam" type build. It's all timber cut from the property and sawed up on my father's woodland Mills 126 saw Mill. It's all Eastern white pine. The base is 8x8 and the walls are framed with 6x6. The roof is 2x6 on the main roof and 2x4 on the cupola. The floor and walls are all 1 inch pine boards, some as wide as 18 inches. It's will be board and batten when finished. The outside dimensions are 24x12.
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I know putting it on blocks isn't the best option but I couldn't pour a slab where it is. The floor is framed with 2x8 as well.

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[raptorfan85]

Here it is with most of the walls and the rafters done. It's going to be a 7/12 pitch with metal roofing on it. The opening in the front is going to be 2 slide out doors that I got for free at work. I also have a man door on the side you can see. It's a jeldwin steel exterior door I also got at work for $50.

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Here's the start of the cupola. It's 4 wide by 5 long and 2 feet high. Should be big enough for my 2x4 hybrid and possibly a 2x6 in the future.

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Here's the entry door. The granite step I found out in the sugar Bush. No idea where or what it came from but it's clearly worn and was used as a step in the past... I thought it was fitting.

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This is the inside where the arch will go

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And this is the unfinished cupola

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[raptorfan85]

This is the entry door side. Mostly will be used for storage and firewood.

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These are the slide out doors for the front that my lovely wife is painting to match the roof.

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that's as far as I have gotten so far.... It's almost ready for the roofing at this point. Just need to put up the strapping and put the tin on. Any thoughts, ideas, criticism, or anything else is welcomed.

[maple flats]

If you don't use a sheet goods or a 1x solid cover deck with a good water proof membrane under the steel roofing it will rain inside as the steam that hits the cold under side of the roofing condenses. Trust me, every drip finds the back of your neck. Either that or use a hood over the pans.

[Trapper2]

Looks very nice, how long did you leave the wood dry after cutting the logs into boards and what process did you use for drying? Thanks

[maple flats]

My board and batton was nailed on at the most 4 weeks after being sawed. No issues. The batton should only be attached on one side of the joint, the other is free to expand and contract.

[raptorfan85]

If you don't use a sheet goods or a 1x solid cover deck with a good water proof membrane under the steel roofing it will rain inside as the steam that hits the cold under side of the roofing condenses. Trust me, every drip finds the back of your neck. Either that or use a hood over the pans.

I was afraid that might be the case with the metal roof. Unfortunately it will have to be a next year thing. I have to finish it up and the mill is put away for the year. It's still 3 steps up from boiling in the open elements!

[raptorfan85]

Looks very nice, how long did you leave the wood dry after cutting the logs into boards and what process did you use for drying? Thanks

the big timbers where cut last fall and stacked with 1 inch stickers in between to let them dry. Most of the 1 inch boards were cut this year and some were only a couple weeks old before getting screwed up.

[Pdiamond]

Make sure you place some type of metal plate that will be large enough to go under the evaporator and in front of where to you have the fire box to catch the embers when you load fire wood into it. And make sure you have a fire extinguisher somewhere mounted for easy access. keep a broom and metal dust pan handy to pick up the ember to toss outside or back into the firebox.

[raptorfan85]

I was thinking about a couple pieces of cement board under the arch and one on the wall behind it.

[johnallin]

You've probably already done it but, make sure the cavities on the cinder blocks are closed off at the top- one looks open in first group of pictures.

If not, you risk having them fill with water and freeze.... in which case they'll most certainly crack and/or blow apart....

Doesn't need to fancy, just keep the water out. Looks like it's going to be a really nice sugar house when you're finished, congrats.

[raptorfan85]

I honestly never would have thought of that. Makes perfect sense though. Good spot.

[johnallin]

I honestly never would have thought of that. Makes perfect sense though. Good spot.
You’re very welcome.

My first “arch” was made up of cinder blocks. Ran across it in the woods a few years later, the blocks had almost disintegrated!

[BigJon]

If you don't use a sheet goods or a 1x solid cover deck with a good water proof membrane under the steel roofing it will rain inside as the steam that hits the cold under side of the roofing condenses. Trust me, every drip finds the back of your neck. Either that or use a hood over the pans.
Maple flats, what are you using as a barrier under the metal? Just 1” thick pine sheathing with nothing between that and the metal, or using bituthane underlayment? Or is there another alternative? Putting my roof on next week and only want to do it once

[n8hutch]

I used the Grace Tri Flex synthetic roofing underlayment on mine. Works great and you get pretty good traction on it walking around on the roof. Think I paid about 100 dollars for a big roll of it at HD

[maple flats]

Unfortunately I was a total greenhorn when I built my sugarhouse, I just put up 1x8 purlins, spaced 6" apart, and attached the steel directly on the purlins. Before I added a hood the first year it rained inside, after that first season the "rain" because I added a hood. Been using a hood ever since on both pans, one sitting on the flue pan and one suspended about 14-16" above the syrup pan.