My evaporator pit will this work?

[Jaredd91]

Im going to be making a pan to fit this but wanted to know what people think first? I flipped one of the cinderblocks in the back so the smoke can escape will that work or do i need to figure out a fluke?? I dont know if its necessary or what most set ups are like.
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[maple flats]

Maybe- you might have a little too much space under the pans. How much of the pan will be resting on the bricks? you really want maybe 1/2". You will do better if you use a door too, with adjustable air inlet. Also, the block you have tirned is old enough that in has 3 holes. A new one with 2 larger holes should work better in my opinion.

[dave&kyle]

I have pretty much the same setup for the last 4 years but I have 1chimney block flipped up to replace the top 2 blocks in the back with a 9inch elbow in the block and a 3 foot section of pipe coming out of the top of the elbow if you're boiling for a long time the ash will build up to your opening and block airflow. Also I have the blocks filled with sand that saves a lot of heat and helps to keep the blocks from cracking as much. For a door I just have a old piece of metal roofing sitting up on some firewood so the air can flow under the tin. Definitely not a efficient set up but still lots of fun and have made about 75 gallon of syrup with it over the years

[n8hutch]

I would move the Block that you are hoping that will be your (vent) or chimney if you will to the top of your firepit, that's where you want the heat is up top, you dont want to be pulling the draft down.

[maple flats]

I would move the Block that you are hoping that will be your (vent) or chimney if you will to the top of your firepit, that's where you want the heat is up top, you dont want to be pulling the draft down.
I'm not so sure about that. If I recall, back when I had a Half Pint, the directions said to build a wall at the back of the fire box, then the stack exited out the rear, a ways down. Also, on my wood stove in my house the stack exits down about 6" below the top. I suspect it has to do with the heat rising and the smoke exiting where it is a few degrees cooler. I guess the answer might be in between. Maybe remove an 8" block, and use 2 blocks 4" thick, one under the "vent" block and one over + one layer of bricks.
Can you build a partition across the back of the fire area to fill the width and up to within maybe 2" or so of the pan, then a small open space where the stack exits behind it? That is similar to how the half pint said to brick that arch.

[Jaredd91]

You got pictures of your chimney set up?

[Jaredd91]

I have pretty much the same setup for the last 4 years but I have 1chimney block flipped up to replace the top 2 blocks in the back with a 9inch elbow in the block and a 3 foot section of pipe coming out of the top of the elbow if you're boiling for a long time the ash will build up to your opening and block airflow. Also I have the blocks filled with sand that saves a lot of heat and helps to keep the blocks from cracking as much. For a door I just have a old piece of metal roofing sitting up on some firewood so the air can flow under the tin. Definitely not a efficient set up but still lots of fun and have made about 75 gallon of syrup with it over the years

Pictures of your chimney??

[johnallin]

I'm not so sure about that. If I recall, back when I had a Half Pint, the directions said to build a wall at the back of the fire box, then the stack exited out the rear, a ways down. Also, on my wood stove in my house the stack exits down about 6" below the top. I suspect it has to do with the heat rising and the smoke exiting where it is a few degrees cooler. I guess the answer might be in between. Maybe remove an 8" block, and use 2 blocks 4" thick, one under the "vent" block and one over + one layer of bricks.
Can you build a partition across the back of the fire area to fill the width and up to within maybe 2" or so of the pan, then a small open space where the stack exits behind it? That is similar to how the half pint said to brick that arch.

I agree with Nate. I also had a half pint and the stack did exit from the back of the arch, about 8" down on center.
Dave, the wall you refer to was to keep the heat up high and close to bottom of the pan.
Without it, the heat would just roar right on out of the back.
Moving the open block to the top, in this case, would keep the heat high . A ramp would be a plus....

[Jaredd91]

I agree with Nate. I also had a half pint and the stack did exit from the back of the arch, about 8" down on center.
Dave, the wall you refer to was to keep the heat up high and close to bottom of the pan.
Without it, the heat would just roar right on out of the back.
Moving the open block to the top, in this case, would keep the heat high . A ramp would be a plus....

Hard for me to picture it do you guys have some examples you could show me?

[maple flats]

You are correct, the partition on my old half pint did force the heat up. I remember the pan boiled the hardest directly over the partition. I think the partition was maybe 4" in from the back of the arch. The whole pan boiled when stoked well, in front of the partition it was a good rolling boil, over the partition there was a line across the pan that boiled even harder, then behind the partition the boil was still boiling but not quite as hard as in the front of the partition.

[Sugarmaker]

Jared91,
I believe they are recommending moving the open block up one space closer to the pan. You might get better draft. Then again your mileage may vary! Rule 1 of suryp making. If you have fire under the pan have liquid in the pan! After that its all fancy stuff to get more liquid boiled faster!
Your doing good! Welcome to our world! have fun making syrup!
My guess is the 91 in your handle is your age? I have a grandson that is a 91 model too!:)
Regards,
Chris.

[dave&kyle]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]20330[/ATTCH] nothing fancy but it works for us I'm hoping to find a used evaperator in the next year or so

[dave&kyle]

20331. Nothing fancy but it works for us

[Jaredd91]

Jared91,
I believe they are recommending moving the open block up one space closer to the pan. You might get better draft. Then again your mileage may vary! Rule 1 of suryp making. If you have fire under the pan have liquid in the pan! After that its all fancy stuff to get more liquid boiled faster!
Your doing good! Welcome to our world! have fun making syrup!
My guess is the 91 in your handle is your age? I have a grandson that is a 91 model too!:)
Regards,
Chris.

The only problem with moving the open block up is its partially blocked where i bought the 6 inch deep pans that everybody recommended. Would this still work to keep it just like this?
203322033320334

[johnallin]

Jarred I think you'll have more than enough draft with that block at the top.
It also looks like you can play with the bricks on the sides if you need more.

You're going to want to keep as much heat as you can up and under those pans to be efficient.
There's only one way to find out...and the best part is you can change on "the fly" if need be.

[Sugarmaker]

The only problem with moving the open block up is its partially blocked where i bought the 6 inch deep pans that everybody recommended. Would this still work to keep it just like this?
203322033320334

After seeing the picture of your pans. It looks about right. As mentioned, try it and make some syrup.
Regards,
Chris

[buckeye gold]

As for blocking the pans, build an extension into the back that will accommodate your pipe. Use half blocks if necessary. It only needs to be big enough for your pipe ..

[n8hutch]

The only problem with moving the open block up is its partially blocked where i bought the 6 inch deep pans that everybody recommended. Would this still work to keep it just like this?
203322033320334

I think that is ideal, the heat/smoke is going to have to hit/go around your pans to get to the exit/out of your fire pit area. The idea is to force the heat up into your pans.

The only concern that I would have with this setup is that you may get some scorching on the sides of your pans because they are exposed to the flame.

[Sugarmaker]

Nate is correct but I bet the folks making syrup in the cast iron kettles got some scorch and smoke flavors too!:) Keep making and tasting and enjoying the experience with family and friends!

Regards,
Chris

[Jaredd91]

As for blocking the pans, build an extension into the back that will accommodate your pipe. Use half blocks if necessary. It only needs to be big enough for your pipe ..

I didnt plan on adding a pipe if its not truly necessary. What really is the purpose of having an actually chimney or pipe? I figured it just needs a place for smoke to escape

[buckeye gold]

The pipe will create draw. The higher the more air it draws....that equals heat

[johnallin]

I didnt plan on adding a pipe if its not truly necessary. What really is the purpose of having an actually chimney or pipe? I figured it just needs a place for smoke to escape

Along with helping increase natural draft, depending on which way the wind blows, it can keep a lot of smoke and embers out of your syrup..

[Jaredd91]

So if im gonna add a chimney with stove pipe what do i need where do i get it? I dont wanna have to mortar it or anything was just gonna use regular bricks to hold it together.

[Sugarmaker]

Lowes and or Home Depot may have what you need for stove pipe. or if you have stove shop close by? Maybe get a 6 foot steel fence post to wire the pipe to for support?
Regards,
Chris

[maple flats]

Back when I had a small arch, outdoors, on my patio, I used 2 pieces of 1/2" EMT for guy supports. The stack actually leaned away from the back at maybe 30 degrees so the canopy tent I had over the arch would not get melted. I used a 1/4" bolt thru a hole drilled in flattened end on each EMT and bolted it to the stack. The other end of the EMTs were screwed to a top rail on my adjacent deck. Each section of stack had 3 screws holding it together. That worked well.
If anyone is not familiar with EMT, it is short for electrical metallic tubing used to run electric wires in.