30+ taps per bit

[old fashioned]

In the 37 years we have made syrup I have used 3 maybe 4 bits. In 2018 I had an Irwin 7/16 break. I was shocked. I figure I had close to 800 taps with that bit. I could not find one for sale close and fast but was able to borrow from a neighbor. I had the local hardware order me 2 new Irwin bits. Started tapping this year and it was obvious there was something different. My old bit took pressure but it pretty much pulled itself into the tree. When I had the depth I wanted I would back off 1 turn (counterclockwise) and then pull the bit out while continuing to turn it clockwise and this cleaned the hole. The new bits I had to push in hard. When I reached depth, the only way to get them out of the tree was to unscrew them (counterclockwise) while pulling hard. First bit lasted 33 taps. Second bit went 34. I had bought some old tools over the summer and remembered there was a old set of Irwins in them. I dug out an old bit and it worked just like I remembered, for my last 101 taps. I got on the Irwin site and wrote a scathing review - heard nothing and they never published it. I spent some time on the internet and came up with the name of an executive at Irwin. Never got through but after 4 phone calls - with a really nice receptionist - they sent me two replacements - different type of bit - and I sent them the faulty bits. The flutes on the bad bits were too large and interfered with the sides of the hole. I figure you could buy a set of bits and probably never know because most users don't drill 200 holes in a row. I am curious - has anyone else had a similar experience?

[Russell Lampron]

I always spend the extra money and buy genuine tapping bits. They're designed to clean out well while drilling and are really sharp. Irwin makes tools for a price point. They use the cheapest metal that they can in their tools. Vice Grips used to be good when they were made by the Peterson Company. They look the same but the teeth round off as soon as you grip something tight and try to turn it now that Irwin makes them.

[maple flats]

I second that. Never use any bit to tap that is not made for tapping trees. The maple companies all carry them and so far I have never gotten one of poor quality.
Back about 10 years ago or so, I had an employee tapping for me, while drilling his foot slipped and he broke the bit. He then went and bought a hardware store bit so he could continue tapping because I was out of town. The trees he tapped using the hardware store bit yielded less sap by quite a bit. I do not recall the amount but it was very notable. The bad part, is that I had 2 or 3 spare bits in a parts box I had given him that contained lateral tubing fittings, taps, connectors, saddles etc. He just had not thought to look in there.
Yes, an official tapping bit costs more, but they are worth every penny.

[argohauler]

I used to use 7/16 Irwin wood auger bits and i think Task was a brand I used as well. They worked well for me. I did as my uncle did back then. He'd put a block of wood on the bit so you could only drill to the desired depth. Never had a problem pulling them back out. Now I use real tapping bits. Use a new one every year.

[Mead Maple]

I will be splurging this next season for a couple bits as well. Hard to justify when you can buy several (cheap) sets of bits for the same money as one. But there’s a big difference between high end metal cutting drills and cheap ones as well so I can see the value.


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[mountainvan]

I drilled 4,200 holes with one cdl tapping bit.

[old fashioned]

OK now I am curious. What is a cdl bit? Is that a brand name?

[Mead Maple]

OK now I am curious. What is a cdl bit? Is that a brand name?

Yes CDL is a maple equipment supplier. The bit just implies what brand he used.


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[Mead Maple]

Is anyone welding a washer to the bit? Just a couple small racks so as to not heat up the bit and possibly jeopardize the integrity?

Or perhaps you use a different method of depth control?


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[Russell Lampron]

Is anyone welding a washer to the bit? Just a couple small racks so as to not heat up the bit and possibly jeopardize the integrity?

Or perhaps you use a different method of depth control?


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I eyeball the depth and don't use a depth stop. If I had a stop on the bit for 1 3/4" for example, I'd only be drilling and inch or so into a big old sugar maple with 3/4" of bark on it and drilling the whole depth on a smooth barked red maple. Just the opposite of what I want to do. I have both types of trees in my orchard.

[sap retreiver]

I use a piece of 5/16 tubing over the but for a depth gauge. I cut it so it touches the drill and has about 2" of bit left.

[TapTapTap]

I use a piece of 5/16 tubing over the but for a depth gauge. I cut it so it touches the drill and has about 2" of bit left.

This is what we do. And, never a problem finding a scrap piece of tubing!

[Mead Maple]

So you guys sleeve the tubing over the bit. And basically gives you a flexible/visual stop that allows some variation if the bark is thicker


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