Rework AOF system on old King Evaporator

[Sugarmaker]

Folks,
This will be a thread to keep me motivated to get this project done before next season. Started out as just a need for new rail gaskets!:)

Current set up with the AOF on the top rail:
https://i.imgur.com/fprIxZx.jpg

Current AOF is 2 inch sq tubing setting on the top rail. Several issues/ reason to change:
1. Heat has warped the tubing out away from the original position. I had it fastened but the small screws were no match for the heat.
2. being that close to the pan I had to modify it to add more air on the side opposite the draw off side.
3. The top rail AOF expanded lengthwise about 1/2 inch when hot. Actually was cracking off the top edge of my front casting. (Not sure what I will do with that? May take the whole lip off?)

So I am thinking of moving it down into the side of the arch where it has been noted most normal people put these systems! This will not be a kind and gentle repair/ rework. If you have a brand new shiny spotless evaporator and new arch you may want to look away!:)

I have the steamaway and pans off and am noodling out the next moves. Basically cutting the old one into pieces, doing some fab work, taking out some fire bricks, installing the old reworked sections back in, re-bricking, and re-plumbing the air inlet system. I am going to keep the ability to throttle one side vs the other because I like more controls on things like this and maybe it will boil better with more air on one side vs the other?
Will try to take a bunch of pictures and as usual write a lot.

I am going to loose 2 inches of firebox depth. I have to move the rear drain exit location down 2 inches. Good news is that there is enough room for the 9 inch deep drop flues in the current arch. Just have to remove some sand.

Here is a picture of my good friend Keith T firing the King arch. You can see the stainless sq tubing between the pan and the arch.
https://i.imgur.com/QIS1tpn.jpg

I am also thinking of removing the parallel flow preheater from the inside of the steam away hood. I ran cold sap this year and really did not see and difference. It is hard to rinse the steamaway with all that extra hard ware in there too. That means I have to re-plumb the inlet for the sap too. As the steamaway will drop 2 inches and I will need two options for sap entering the float box on the steamaway.

Comments are always welcome!

Regards,
Chris

[BAP]

Watching with lots of interest in how you do it. Thinking of modifying my old Algier arch for AOF. Already have AUF.

[motowbrowne]

Cool project Chris! I look forward to seeing your progress. I've dreamed about adding AOF, but I'm a long ways from taking the plunge. My rig is more than capable of meeting my needs now, and I only bricked it prior to the 2017 season, so I won't need to take anything apart for some time. Efficiency is always something to strive for, as is reduced emissions, so the thought is always in the back of my mind.

Out of curiosity, with your current system, how much improvement over natural draft did you see?

Ryan

[Sugarmaker]

Ryan,
Boy that is a good question about natural draft! I boiled with natural draft on a 30 inch x 10 foot Leader arch 20 years ago. (it was not mine) Had lots of time to do things as syrup boiled pretty much at a average pace.
This arch of mine has had AUF since day one when I restored it. I added the AOF maybe 10 years ago.
So AUF and AOF systems tend to be noisy! But they do work.
When I build a fire and the draft door is open and AUF and AOF are not on yet I always think about just boiling without either and listening to the crackling fire and quiet. That lasts till I see the first bubbles in the syrup pan! Then I say, lets get rolling hit the switches and hear and feel the pans shudder and take off into a full rip/rolling boil across the front and rear pans!
Without these you will get a lot of sparks out the chimney and a lot of black smoke., and a big fireball at the top of the stack. With AUF and AOF these are all greatly reduced and I believe you have a much more effecient burn of the wood. Yes you may burn more wood quicker but your also making more syrup quicker.
Rule of thumb is 20 gallons of syrup per cord of wood. (now I do have a steamaway which helps) But I made 187.5 gallons of syrup an about 5 cord of wood this year which is closer to 40 gallons per cord. The AOF and AUF didnt hurt anything.

My goal is always to inform and or mentor with these things on forums. But I am easily distracted and ramble a lot!:)
Regards,
Chris

[motowbrowne]

I hope you don't think that I'm clogging up your thread here, but I enjoy the conversation. Great info, and thanks for sharing!

I suppose it's different for everyone, but that kind of constant background does really bug me. My 4x14 makes enough noise just with natural draft! Thing sounds like a train if you're close to it. I suppose for me the low hanging fruit would be just AUF. Not a ton of tinkering and less noise than AOF.

The sparks out of the stack are concerning to me though. We have a hollow basswood about 30' from the stack that has caught fire the last two years in a row. 35' in the air... I don't get too much black smoke, but I mostly burn softwood split pretty thin. It'd be nice with a blower to burn bigger chunks. 20010

Can't really see it in the picture, but it's ablaze.

[Sugarmaker]

Ryan,
If you see most of my posts I am pretty long winded. I can hunt and peck pretty good!:) I haven't started a new thread in a long time. Most of my work was a while ago this is just a upgrade I would like to do, and I will attempt to document most of it for the good of the folks that care to watch.
If I were to put a number on it I would say the AOF is the thing that reduced the gasses and sparks the most and maybe by 90% That's just a guess. Straight AUF may actually add more sparks just due to the volume of air being added. I do understand the natural draft noise too! And they do get loud if your pouring the wood to them, which most of us old wood burners do!:)
Regards,
Chris

[maple flats]

Chris, read this before you make the change http://www.uvm.edu/~pmrc/Combustion.pdf
I did it back several years ago. I used to get stack temps of 1400-1600 F and had a ball of fire out the stack as unburned hot gasses got to more oxygen. I also had sparks out the stack.
Then I built a modified version of how the instructions say to do it. I can't say how much HP air mine because my blower is from 1904 and is belt driven by a 1 HP motor, but it works wonders. I used 2" square tubing, set 6" below the pans with nozzles pointed down at the prescribed angle of 10 degrees downward, spaced every 6" from one side of the fueling door, all of the way around the firebox to the other side of the fueling door. My HO blower is outside, under my head tank platform, it blows in thru a 4" PVC pipe with 3 long sweep elbows, then it splits into 3 pipes that are 3" diameter. One feeds a heavy galvanized pipe, 4", that runs in under the arch. It has 3 rows of holes, one top center and one on each side facing almost to the outer edge of the grates. The other 3X feeds a 2" square tube that drops down from the arch ramp at the back of the firebox. From there it feeds the 2" square tube. Each of the 3" pipes has a 3" brass ball valve to regulate the air flow. I'd need to recheck but I think the one feeding the AOF is open about 2/3 and the one feeding the AUF is open 25-30%. Each of the nozzles is 3/8" black iron pipe. I removed the firebrick to install the manifold, then ran a layer of full firebrick above the manifold and used plastic refractory to protect the manifold tubing and above the brick to the top rail. My ball valves were adjusted several time during the first season, until I decided where they are now is best, since then they have never been moved again. Those valves would not likely be 3" brass ball valves but I got them at $.10 a pound at scrap prices. The blower was $.02 a pound with the motor too. That motor just quit this season and I had to buy a new one. The old one had a patent date on it of 1895.
Before I did this my boil rate was between 55-65 GPH, and I added wood every 7 minutes. Now I get a boil rate of 75-85 GPH and add slightly less wood each time and at 9 minute intervals. I can also add at 8 minute intervals and get 85-90 GPH but things move too fast for me that way, so unless I have experienced help in the sugarhouse I do the 9 minute fueling. My stack temps are now at 750-1100 F, I get no sparks nor ball of fire at the top of the stack because the gasses are burned while still under the pans where they do more work.
As I say, mine is modified, the write up says a 3" pipe to carry the HP air to the nozzles, mine is 2" square and the blower is unknown. I could get it tested for pressure but it works so well I don't worry about it, besides I get syrup fast enough. My plaqns were to cut the nozzles back to even with the brick, but then I decided to leave the excess and just let it burn off, that didn't happen and the nozzles still look new, likely because cold air is keeping them cool. The nozzles stick out 1" to 2.5", but that has not proven to be a problem.
I start my fire by laying the wood up alternating it for best air flow then I use a weed burner torch. As soon as it is going, I turn the blower on and it stays on even during fueling until the coals are burned up at shutdown, I don't even turn it off to fuel. Initially I did shut it off, but then my grandson forgot to shut it off one time and I noticed it made no difference, then it was no longer shut off to fuel.

[mol1jb]

One of the best things to combat noise of a pressure blower for AOF is put the blower in another room or outside. The additional 20' of pipe is worth the quiet it brings inside the kitchen. I was fortunate to have the opportunity to put my blower in the attic of our sugar kitchen and the only noise I hear is the roaring fire inside the arch.

[BAP]

One of the best things to combat noise of a pressure blower for AOF is put the blower in another room or outside. The additional 20' of pipe is worth the quiet it brings inside the kitchen. I was fortunate to have the opportunity to put my blower in the attic of our sugar kitchen and the only noise I hear is the roaring fire inside the arch.
Do you hear the air going through the pipe?

[mol1jb]

Do you hear the air going through the pipe?

Yes but its not an over whelming noise. The roar of the fire in the arch pretty much drowns it out.

I should add that I piped my blower through pvc which is thick enough to keep the noise down.

[maple flats]

I also piped using PVC but I need to make a better cover for the noise, I can still hear the drone of the blower, low volume but never ending. My cover is just a plywood box with the side away from the sugarhouse open. I've thought of making one using 2" thick foam, have not yet.

[n8hutch]

My Blower is up stairs in the back of my sugarhouse, you only hear it if you go out to the tank room, it is plumed with 4" PVC and goes down the wall under the slab and comes up under the evaporator. It took alot of planning but i too didn't like listening to the blowers.

[Sugarmaker]

Folks,
Thanks for checking in on me. Since I have most of the pieces in place this is just a upgrade to hopefully solve several of the issues with my second prototype AOF system. I do have the blower mounted outside the sugarhouse and I can hear the air. Since I have a similar blower for the steam away I have double the sounds! But we boil really well for a old rig. Around 120-130 gallons per hour.
I don't really notice the noise until I shut down at the end of a boil and all is quiet again.

Here you can get a idea of how the heat distorted the stainless tubes. I did have them fastened to the rails and it just popped the bolts.
https://i.imgur.com/pqWLsZg.jpg

Here I have the steamaway removed and rolled forward and the rear pan removed and off to the side of the arch. Not a lot of room to work. May have to get some help and move them out of the evaporator room?
https://i.imgur.com/LIKRavM.jpg

Started to cut the current AOF system apart but got sidelined on another project (Tractor restoration). I have a plan and it will follow most of the guidlines that Dave (mapleflats) refered to in the article he linked. Bottom line is that with some cutting and fitting the AOF should work even better the third time!
Regards,
Chris

[maple flats]

Chris, how much space do you have on your nipples, they look rather close to each other? 6" space does well. If you set that tube down 6" after removing the fire brick, then put brick on top and use refractory to protect the tube, I don't think expansion will be an issue. Mine is like that and it has not shown evidence of expanding in length in several years use. Where do you have your HP blower, is it pushing cold air, mine pumps from under the head tank platform outside so it is pushing cooler air, that may help too. Cold air will not cool the fire in my experience and I think the colder air blowing thru the tubing controls the expansion.
If you prefer, you could also mount the manifold on the outside of the arch. That option is mentioned in the report I referenced at the top of this thread.

[Sugarmaker]

Dave, Folks,
I havent measured the nozzel spacing today but I think its about 6 inches. 5 foot of length on the front pan (old school).
My blower is out side under the eaves on the East side of the sugarhouse. Yes I think expansion will not be as much of a problem. Not only did the current AOF tube grow in length but it also curved up and lifted off the front of the arch. Not a great thing either!

Started the cuts on the tubing. Got side tracked again. The front section is not straight any more where the nozzles are. The back 5 feet is still straight. I have to evaluate if it will be better to use one or the other? Might just be able to cut some relief custs and straighten the bend and reweld it?

Front cross tube will be cut short and the ends capped, to allow controlled air on either side if needed.
https://i.imgur.com/zwGTm2c.jpg

Regards,
Chris

[Paddymountain]

Chris: I have reworked my old soule 30x8 in the way you are about 3 years ago.
Presently going to be out of the country until next weekend. But do have pictures I could send you

[motowbrowne]

That's pretty amazing that you're doing 130gph through a 3x10 with only a 5' flue pan! Obviously the steamaway is part of the equation, but still I'm impressed!

[mol1jb]

Dave, Folks,
I havent measured the nozzel spacing today but I think its about 6 inches. 5 foot of length on the front pan (old school).
My blower is out side under the eaves on the East side of the sugarhouse. Yes I think expansion will not be as much of a problem. Not only did the current AOF tube grow in length but it also curved up and lifted off the front of the arch. Not a great thing either!

Started the cuts on the tubing. Got side tracked again. The front section is not straight any more where the nozzles are. The back 5 feet is still straight. I have to evaluate if it will be better to use one or the other? Might just be able to cut some relief custs and straighten the bend and reweld it?

Front cross tube will be cut short and the ends capped, to allow controlled air on either side if needed.

Regards,
Chris

My answer would depend on how much variance there is in the tubing. Less than 1/4 inch? I would leave it. If you are going with the Proctor guidelines and setting the tubing down from the pan 4-6" then you can probably leave the tubing as is and put mortar/insulation around it to protect it. I used ceramic insulation around my tubing and that worked well.

[RileySugarbush]

If it's of interest I can share an Excel spreadsheet that will help in sizing AOF systems. Based on number and size of the nozzles and the outlet pressure of your AOF blower, it calculates the exit velocity of the air jets and total CFM of AOF. Of course, you need to know what you want those numbers to be, but I find it interesting to know the effect when I make a change to my system.

[Sugarmaker]

Thanks guys,
I am not going to get too technical as far as the numbers. The old system on the top of the rail worked pretty well as a protptype. (read that: I was lazy and did not want to tear out the fire birck)
I have the old system cut into pieces and have mocked it up. Pulled the top course of fire brick out.

You know when you change one thing 5 other things need changed too? Well you can take that to the bank!

1. Thinking of adding arch board between brick and skin? Never had any just brick. Now would be the time. (hum might make a colder sugarhouse? But might boil a little better/ hotter??
2. Rear pan flues (9 inch deep) now hit some splits I had laid under the side wall fire bricks at the back of the arch.
3. that means removing all the bricks and redoing them. Well it has not been touched for almost 20 years, so maybe its time?
4. the top rail is bowed out about 1 wider at the center of the 10 foot arch. Might as well fix that while its all apart.
5. new drain hole required for the flue pan, 2 inches lower.

See told you!

Top rail AOF cut into sections:
https://i.imgur.com/rX9plHI.jpg

First rough mock up: Well thats not going to work with the air tube going through the door opening!
https://i.imgur.com/Vc9rLbf.jpg

Yea its getting messy and dirty!
This is the left side of the arch with the front (door air tube) raised above the side tube.
https://i.imgur.com/BcKgxjX.jpg

Have the holes cut in the sides of the arch and the input air tubes (round) trail fit. Looks like the rig has headers! Ok one header!

Regards,
Chris

[Sugarmaker]

Folks,
I cant type fast enough and get pictures loaded before the trader times out for some reason.
Anyway a couple more shots:

Mock up in right corner over door:
https://i.imgur.com/F4VHxKD.jpg

Air inlet stub fit and through arch side:
https://i.imgur.com/HnzwkT3.jpg

Air inlet view from outside arch:
https://i.imgur.com/frSHko9.jpg

Will have to let this set and simmer/age for a while, to figure what else needs attention!:) Some tack welding required to see if I can get this installed as a fully welded unit.

FYI I did make three cuts in the curved (warped ) air tube and this will get it almost straight again. Need to bring the Mig welder out and start tacking the new assembly together. Havent fabed anything in a while. So this is a good test.

Also found the extended lip that I had added to the rear pan (about 1 inch long) has to be removed to allow the pans to fit on the arch length! Not a big deal just need to be careful when I grind the spot welds and release it.
Regards,
Chris

[mol1jb]

A couple thoughts I will add.

I would definitely do any insulating you can while the bricks are out. That will keep more heat in the firebox for complete combustion and more heat going through the pans. My arch is fully insulated and there is still plenty of warmth to keep the kitchen comfortable.

Looking at your mock up from how you had it. It should work just fine but I would point out one thing. Your original system had the benefit of the pipe coming to the firebox manifold being preheated. Your current mock up would lose that benefit. Since you are doing some brick work it wouldn't be hard to keep the feed pipe inside the arch somewhere to keep the benefit of preheated air. And since the back of the pipe on the original configuration was not warped we know it can take the heat underneath or on the side of the flue pan no problem. You could take a straight run of pipe from the front of the firebox all the way back, mortar/insulate over the firebox manifold to protect it and leave the back pipe exposed to soak up heat and preheat incoming air.

Here is a pic of how my arch utilized going into the flue pan and before it left the stack, keeping in mind this is a raised flue pan:
20016

[n8hutch]

For some reason I have it in my head that you want some nozzles at the back of the firebox also pushing air down and somewhat towards the front. I thought that was how I read it in the UVM paper , or did I read it wrong/I have thought about adding over fire air for a few years.

[mol1jb]

http://www.uvm.edu/~pmrc/Combustion.pdf

There is the publication. The bottom pages have some diagrams that will help answer your question. And remember these are good guidelines but many have had success in a number of variations.

[Sugarmaker]

Thanks guys,
Look who your working with here, this is my third attempt at this! Do you think I follow the rules? No, I color outside the lines a lot!:)
Not doing the nozzles at the back. Just doesn't seem right to me to be blowing the fire back at the door. Just my 2 cents. Just going to keep hacking till something happens! I do appreciate the comments and the suggestions too!
Cant get my welder out of the shop due to the disaster called a tractor restoration in the way!
I dont think the air has any time to get warm on its travels even in my old system? These blowers move a lot of air quickly!
Regards,
Chris

[maple flats]

Chris, I have 5 nozzles across the back (3x8) and I do not shut the blower off to refuel. I get no fire nor sparks out the front, I also have 1 each side of the doors, facing to the back. I won't say it will be a failure, but why argue with success?

[Windy Acres]

sugarmaker, check out the thread i did when i did out little 2x8, it worked great and was a real easy install!http://mapletrader.com/community/showthread.php?28879-Air-over-fire-what-size-feed-pipe/page2

[Sugarmaker]

Windy,
That is a very clean and controlable set up for your air distribution.

Dave,
On my first prototype build (round tubes) I had exposed tube and nozzles just under the pan across the arch. Being exposed it did a quick melt down. My ramp is long and shallow slope and any nozzels at the back of the fire box would be right at the same place where I would like to get the heat to my drop flues. Will look at that again but doubt I will go with the rear set of nozzels.
I did find my welder so just have to get that moved to the sugar house.

Regards,
Chris

[Sugarmaker]

Folks,
A product that I have heard about for years and never used: Arch board! I was thinking that when I have all the brick out it would be a good time to consider adding some additional insulation to the arch. I just have the old fire brick in there. Any one have info on this material, availability, do's and don't's? I don't know the thickness. Guess I may have to google it too? Have been working in the sugarhouse canning syrup.
I also have a concept to add a steel channel along the edge of the arch. Three functions:
1. welded to the outer top edge of the top rail would provid some stiffness.
2. withe the legs up (1 inch wide, 1/2 inch legs, 1/8 inch wall) it would raise my pan 1/2 inch off the rail, allowing heat to get under that portion of the pan which sets on the arch. I have 38 inch wide arch and pans. I would pick up another 140 sq inches of boiling area. (not much but might not hurt)
3. This could be a nice place for some heavy rope pan gasket to lay in (glued) and not get so out of position.

Comments always welcome!
Regards,
Chris

[n8hutch]

I believe that the Arch board I bought is 1" thick and 1' by 3' rectangles I bought mine at Bascoms, no doubt that there are probably cheaper places. I used a razor knife and broke it off much like sheetrock or ridged styrofoam. I liked it, I also have an inch of blanket insulation in my arch, so my arch has 2 full inches of insulation, it works well, the last 2 rows of bricks I used half bricks so as to not block the heat from hitting the pans, I did have to cut a slight bevel up by the arch rail to take the square edge off the bricks. But it works good.

[Sugarmaker]

Nate, Folks,
Thanks! Maybe there is only inch thick arch board material. If so I may use that and then splits (1 inch thick) bricks for the liner. I got into the arch work a little more this afternoon and evening. Can you say DISASTER!
It just keeps getting worse. I guess I shouldn't complain the arch has served me well for 20 years with out much love! The arch is probably about 100 years old. So I will cut it some slack.

I got the steamaway out of the evaporator room and into the wood shed. Suspended it with a couple ratchet straps.
Then brought the cart back in and lowered the rear pan on to it and out the door. Now we have some room to work.
https://i.imgur.com/istTLLw.jpg

This is just one of my old wood carts that I have the pan balanced on. What could go wrong?
https://i.imgur.com/wqaQ7k5.jpg

Started squeezing the rails back together. removed all the side brick and splits under them. Found that the left rail is just about shot. several rust spots. You would think this stuff would last more than 100 years! I pulled it in to the dimension and realized that just one rail was moving. The rusty one. I think I may be due for new rails! Just another thing added to the list.
https://i.imgur.com/sIb0Zt8.jpg

Started to look at the issues associated with new rails. Well they should go back under the stack collar. Began to lift the exterior skin of the stack to expose the base stack.Of course it caught on the stack thermometer and destroyed that too! This base stack was made from 400 series and it has some warping and surface rust. We fired it way to hot several times when I had to old pans and we were burning pallets! All in all not too bad for 20 years. So I need to figure out how to gently unfasten and lift the cast stack base, remove the old rail/s and insert new ones. That should be enjoyable!
https://i.imgur.com/RY8T7mL.jpg

I think I will wheel barrow out the old bricks and sand and start fresh. Wife thinks its telling me I should be done making syrup! Wait what was the initial objective. Yea replace the rail gasket! Looking more like a summer project!

Regards,
Chris

[Paddymountain]

Chris: It looks like your pipes are going to go through to the back of evaporator. That's how I did mine. Just built a manifold across the back. Also wrapped them in ceramic insulation .

[motowbrowne]

I've used arch board and ceramic blanket respectively behind the fire brick in my last two cookers. Arch board is a little easier to work with, but it's WAY more expensive. I bought certain blanket from McGill's warehouse online for my new cooker. I think I paid $140 for enough to do a 4x14. I priced arch board and it was gonna be like $700. I talked to several guys who'd used it behind their bricks and I was convinced to give it a shot. I would definitely go that route again if I ever tear this rig apart.

[Paddymountain]

20040

20041

20042

Finally had time to get some pictures on.
This spring I replaced sawdust gate valves with the
4" ball valves, less air leaks and quieter too!
Sorry about the last picture, can't seem to get one to be turned the right way.

[Sugarmaker]

Guys,
Thanks The pictures help too! My air tubes are going to come out the side of the arch about midway back along each side.
I haven't priced the arch board. That sounds a little pricey!
I found Bascom's has 1 x 3 feet x 1 inch for $12 each plus shipping. They have 16 in a box. I think I would need a box to complete the project on a 3 x 10 arch. Might use some in back of the front casting and maybe in the insulated door too. So that would be $200 plus shipping! Then fire bricks and mortar.
Regards,
Chris

[Sugarmaker]

Folks,
The saga continues as I find more issues with the old King Arch. It needs more repairs than I thought. But most are sturctural and or safety related. So we will continue to plod along.
I got the rails removed today. Took the lower portion of the base stack off and found it had some holes and thin areas. Will check with local maple fab shop on getting a new one. Also the stack base is getting rusted and thin. I will have him quote a replacement for that too.

https://i.imgur.com/BdIcf4O.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/xJEUmar.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/QE4iuge.jpg

I did contact a local company about the arch board bricks and mortar. May be able to get everything there? If I needed to get the arch board from Bascom's I think I would only need 9 or 10 pieces.

Regards,
Chris

[Sugarmaker]

Folks,
I havent looked for a good used base for the 3 foot wide King type arch. I have some stainless I may try to fab a new base. Creekside Welding and Machine will get the nod to make the section of base stack as a replacement once I get he new base for fit up. Have to order the steel for the rails too. 2 x 2 x 3/16 angle iron. Have found some of the potential insulation materials for rebricking/ insulating, the arch at Onex in Erie. They have ISA board (similar to arch board) and splits and mortar.
Regards,
Chris

[Sugarmaker]

Folks,
Picked up my new arch rails, archboard, firebricks, mortar and stainless for my stack base plate fabrication today. That should keep me out of trouble till syrup season. Will try to bring this old King Arch back on line one more time.
Regards,
Chris

[Sugarmaker]

Folks,
Some pictures of the old arch as some parts Start to get laid out.

This is the stainless channel that I plan to miter and weld the joints into the base for the stack. 2 x 1 x 1/4 thick.
https://i.imgur.com/hlnqoXS.jpg

New 2 x 2 x 3/16 steel angle iron rails in position. look pretty good.
https://i.imgur.com/ivZUCjc.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/a74dLuf.jpg

I brought home the small steel channel that I proposed for the pans to be elevated above the rail and the rope gasket to be contained in. Concept at this time. Its 1 x 1/2 x 1/8 wall. Havent came up with a good attachment method yet. Spot welding and or fasteners come to mind to keep it in position long term.
https://i.imgur.com/OmHUaZq.jpg

Regards,
Chris

[Pdiamond]

Chris
It appears that you are doing a wonderful job of repair work on this old arch. Lots of kudos to you for the care and detail. I have a question on the second picture there is a round hole at the right rear of the arch. What is the hole used for?

[Sugarmaker]

Pdiamond,
Thanks,
I had a 6 inch stove pipe from my small wood stove in there. I think I am just going to patch that hole and remove the wood stove. It worked well to take the chill off when canning syrup, but makes it tight in the sugarhouse.
Regards,
Chris

[Sugarmaker]

Folks,
Had a hour or two to spend on the 3 x 10 arch rebuild.
Removed all the old fire brick, and the sand. Looks like some of the cross braces are rusted out. These will be stainless next time.
https://i.imgur.com/xqvsdkn.jpg

Removed grates which are in excellent shape.
https://i.imgur.com/PyD6bn2.jpg

Regards,
Chris

[Sugarmaker]

Folks,
The weather is turning colder and wetter, so Its time to turn to some inside projects like the Arch refurbishment that I have proscrastinated on all summer!
I did get the arch cleaned out and the stainless cross angles whittled out and drilled for stainless bolts.
Cut out the stainless channel for the base of the smoke stack. Got it tacked together and of course ran out of stainless wire for the Mig. I will get some piuctures. Am fabing a drain for rain water of the back of the stack base also.
Still debating the attachment method for the new side rails to the arch sides? Plan is to use zip screws along the rails.
A custom built smoke stack tapered base will be commissioned from Creekside Welding and or Stateline Stainless shops. Both near by.
Regards,
Chris

[Sugarmaker]

Folks,
The stainless portions of the arch tin are still in pretty good shape. Replaced the cross angles and will bolt those in place with stainless fasteners.
https://i.imgur.com/6xzyzcc.jpg

AOF system is welded together and in the home position.
https://i.imgur.com/zVivNjf.jpg

Stainless base for the stack is roughed out and tacked together. Will have a spout drain at the rear too.
https://i.imgur.com/T2UUSEq.jpg

Regards,
Chris

[Sugarmaker]

Folks,
Well I finally came up with a plan to attach the rails to the sides of the arch. I was going to use zip screws. But after talking with some other sugarmakers have decided to use stainless 1/4 in bolts as the fasteners.
Got a 2 lb spool of 308 stainless wire to finish up the welding.
I have been debating about using the small 1 inch wide x 1/2 inch high channel on the top rail to set the rail gasket in. This would need to be attached to the top rail and tack welding it every 4 or 5 inches was going to be my plan. just a little concerned that it may rust under it and heave up over time. This was to do two things raise the pans off the rail a half inch, and provide a place for the rope type rail gasket to ride for a long time.
Just put up my old grates for sale in the classifieds.

Regards,
Chris

[Sugarmaker]

Folks,
I am going to try something different on this rebuild, if it doesnt work out its only steel.
Will spot weld a small channel around the edge of the rail. The plan is that this will hold the rope gasket and elevate the pan a half inch getting more boiling area exposed. Just getting it fit. havent welded on it yet.

https://i.imgur.com/IHPhX77.jpg?1

Almost ready for arch board and fire brick!

Thanks for checking on me.
Regards,
Chris

[Super Sapper]

You could cut through the angle between the spot welds to allow expansion and contraction to avoid it lifting on you.

[Sugarmaker]

Folks,

Dont forget the Lake Erie Maple Expo is next week end in Albion PA at the Northwestern High school. check the web page at www.pamaple.org.

Our sugarhouse is only 2 miles from there. Folks are welcome to stop by. cell is 814-434-8659.

On this channel: I am going to try it. Tack welding every 6 inches alternating outside to inside. If it doesnt work it can be snagged off in a few minutes.

Super, thanks for the suggestion! I will keep that in mind!
Regards,
Chris

[Sugarmaker]

Maple folks,
Some shots of the multipurpose channel added to the rails.

https://i.imgur.com/7ut6uYs.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/6NuH8wn.jpg

Welded a 3/4 inch long bead every 6 inches, only on the inside of the channel. Looks pretty secure. Adding one fastener in the front channel to secure the rail and hold the spacer to keep the AOF's from jumping the track when we get her up to 90 mph!:)
Hope to find some large rope gasket in the near future. Maybe 1 inch rope type.
Regards,
Chris

[Sugarmaker]

Folks,
Weather has turned colder and I am glad I am working inside on the arch. Have most of the arch board material cut or in place. Some planning for the splits to be installed.

https://i.imgur.com/oKfqNUP.jpg

For some reason I felt I had to wrap the AOF system? Not sure yet if this was a good Idea or not? Its done, so I will attempt to brick around it.

Regards,
Chris

[Pdiamond]

Chris,
Are you going to be cementing the bricks in place once you get them layed out. I like your idea of placing the blanket insulation around your aof tubes. Again I commend you on your work with this evaporator. You have done some very good work.

[Sugarmaker]

Pdiamond,
Thanks! I believe I will take the bricks back out and mortar each one in place. Just seems like the right thing to do. I went through two of the blades to cut brick using the 7 inch skill saw.

https://i.imgur.com/Edy1JfY.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/HIps6VY.jpg

I want to do something with the door but haven't decided what the approach will be.

Then there is the new base stack and put the second safety stack skin back in place too.

Need to get this brick work done So I can move on to many other changes required to get he rig functional again by spring. Mainly piping changes. AOF air supply lines, Steam away air and sap input lines.

Thanks for checking in on me.

Regards,
Chris

[Sugarmaker]

Folks,
Got about 3/4 done and ran out of the Onex 3000 cement.
https://i.imgur.com/V3XAbh1.jpg?1

It may not look too good but I think it will function like factory. Pretty pleased so far. This isn't a beauty contest!:)
I am going to weld the outside of the channel on the top rail. Just don't want it to go anywhere for a good number of years.
Off to Erie to see if I can find some supplies to finish this up.

One week till LEME whoooooooo !

Regards,
Chris

[Sugarmaker]

Folks,
May have finally reached the turning point on this project or its just the edge of the cliff?? Picked up some tan morat mix to contrast the dark gray better and finished the brick work with, Ahhh no mix to spare.
If you ever have to do one with tan splits get the tan mortar sure looks better from here.
https://i.imgur.com/UQxHBvT.jpg

Picked up large rope gasket material. I thought it was what I wanted but turns out its just a little too big. Here is the next size smaller and it may work very well.
https://i.imgur.com/CnwWdz5.jpg

gasket setting in the channel:
https://i.imgur.com/45cf1h1.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/4RsD3si.jpg

Regards,
Chris

[Sugarmaker]

Folks,
Got carried away and posted too many pictures! I hate when that happens!
Found some stainless and made the patches for the holes in the arch sides, stainless pop rivets secured the patches:
https://i.imgur.com/CtS8DUb.jpg

Pulled the door off for some cosmetic up grades. Will re-insulate with blanket and cover with a piece of stainless, ok two pieces:
Also cut the top of the arch where the old AOF had tried to break off the King Evaporator script. Keeps getting shorter, But still says King!

https://i.imgur.com/IfK7Wxk.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/wKMIXqe.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ry8JyGm.jpg

Was a good day in the sugarhouse. Put the grates back in. Those are heavy!
Regards,
Chris

[Sugarmaker]

Maple folks,
Completed the inside skin on the arch door.
https://i.imgur.com/oYuGKm3.jpg

Next step is to clean and paint the arch with stove black. Piping for the AOF. Get the correct gasket. Get the stack build started. fill the base of the arch with sand. Set the pans. Re-plumb the steam-away feed lines. It will be a few days. But we might just be ready for that early run!

Thanks for checking on me!
Regards,
Chris

[Sugarmaker]

Folks,
Not a great picture from my old flip phone. I guess if a coat of paint covers a multitude of sins, maybe I should put on two coats?
Some stove black applied to protect the steel rails and then a coat on the sides too.
https://i.imgur.com/GNOwMno.jpg?1
Regards,
Chris

[n8hutch]

I'd say that looks good for a 50 year young Arch.

[Sugarmaker]

Nate, Folks,
Thanks! I finished up the painting of the black on the arch. It does make it look fresh. Couple of bags of sand in the bottom and It looks like it might work out OK.
This smoke stack base is bothering me. Almost tempted to get some stainless and make it myself! I mean I made the original one. I didnt even have a $5.30 press brake at the time. The brake is set up but its in the shed filled with junk!
May make a run to Stateline Stainless and see if they may be able to work it in.
Regards,
Chris

[BAP]

Great rebuild. Sap should really Boil with it now.

[maple flats]

Chris, that should work far better than what you had before. Great job!

[Sugarmaker]

Folks,
Had a supervisor in the sugarhouse this afternoon. This is our Great grandson, Cooper. He was inspecting the evaporator rework, the tubing and the pans! He loves being outside!
https://i.imgur.com/RZG3ZDD.jpg

Picked up the PVC for completing the AOF piping from the blower. Will fab some supports for the tubing and screw it together rather than gluing it.

Regards,
Chris

[Pdiamond]

Chris,
You have a good supervisor there. I'll bet he helps you in the spring when you are making syrup too!! And your evaporator is really looking good. Are you going to do a test boil with water to make sure everything is up to your satisfaction?

[Sugarmaker]

Pdiamond, Folks,
Hoping one of the kids, or grand kids, or great grand kids get the maple making bug! Cooper will be 2 about the time syrup season is done next spring. He and I were looking at family pictures on the sugarhouse wall. A lot of them have horses in them. And he loves ponies! I was thinking that we are very near the point where The letters that I have from my ancestors talk about making maple sugar "eggs" for the kids at Christmas time, in or around 1820's. Hard to believe! Would be like the 8th great grandfather of Cooper!

Back to reality. I had not thought about firing it up with water. Will see what the weather is like. I did order the smoke stack yesterday from State-line Stainless. He is busy with double and triple wall chimney pipes. So it may have to go on the arch after the pans are in place? I am going with the full 6-2 base stack height. That will go from the rectangular base to 12 inch round at the top. Should be easier for installation and manufacture too.

Voting and working on the air delivery for AOF are on the agenda today.

Thanks for checking on me! Hope things are good in Maple land! LEME is heating up! Lots of good seminars on Friday and many on Saturday too. The Suppliers will be wall to wall. If you haven't attended this 2 day event it might be time!
Regards,
Chris

[Sugarmaker]

Folks,
Slow steady progress on the old arch refurbish project.
Set up the AOF air inlet system,
https://i.imgur.com/rM1kwch.jpg

Fastened it together with screws at each joint. Couple hangers for support. Done!
https://i.imgur.com/jDviRah.jpg

I kept the air controls for each side, in cases I would need to tune one side of the arch compared to the other.
https://i.imgur.com/pHrHlzS.jpg

Hope to get the new rope gasket in a week or so. This is 7/8 rope made by Rutland.

Have to build a support for the round portion of the smoke stack to reomove the portion of the tapered smoke stack.

Regards,
Chris

[Sugarmaker]

Folks,
Ready to take down the next 2 foot section of base stack. Have supported the upper 12 inch smoke stack with some boards screwed to the pipe and setting on the cross ties.
Regards,
Chris

[Sugarmaker]

Chris, that should work far better than what you had before. Great job!
Dave,
Thanks! I see your scaling back your operation. I have been considering the same thing. I have at least one string of tubing I am not going to put up but that's only 20 taps. I have things set up and sized that I can do the work by myself. And my health is ok, but not getting any younger and dont have anyone really interested in making maple syrup in the family. Probably time to start coasting! The evaporator refurb allows me to do a project and improve the old arch. Not planning on stopping yet.
Regards,
Chris

[Sugarmaker]

Folks,
I captured Mr Peter Gregg! Yes the one and only! Drug him to our sugarhouse after he had spent all weekend at LEME! forced him to look at my old evaporator and had a good discussion with him!:)
Was great have him take the time to stop by before his long trip home! We really enjoyed having him and the Maple News at LEME this year! He said he will be back next year too!
Regards,
Chris

[Sugarmaker]

Folks,
Some work int he sugarhouse to test fit the pans on the reworked arch. The rear pan drain hole position check:
https://i.imgur.com/rVaXvVn.jpg

Outside drain:
https://i.imgur.com/NsqM4QB.jpg

View through the rear doors:
https://i.imgur.com/JfOi7eo.jpg

Fit good on the new rail gasket channel system:
https://i.imgur.com/Wp6Ppr5.jpg

More in the next thread,
Regards,
Chris

[Sugarmaker]

More on the pan fit up,

Check of the rail gasket 7/8 rope:
https://i.imgur.com/4QkR0Sb.jpg

The added channel looks just right. Will raise the pan off the rail to pick up more boiling area and increase sap boiling rate:
https://i.imgur.com/AbwpvXq.jpg

Front pan power washed:
https://i.imgur.com/6nPtHrf.jpg

Pans were custom built to my specs by Creekside welding, set on for fit up. Looks like this is going to work well!
https://i.imgur.com/Si8xHkO.jpg

Regards,
Chris

[Sugarmaker]

Folks,
Visited Stateline Stainless today and assisted in bending the two halves of my new smoke stack! I will do the assembly work to make sure it matches the arch base and the 12 inch smoke stack. I was very pleased! Weather is getting colder and forecast is for 6 inches of snow by morning! I will get some pictures as I get the stack together. Have to get or order the rope gasket too.
Regards
Chris

[Pdiamond]

Chris,
You really have done a fabulous job with this evaporator. I cannot wait to see the pictures of it in action. Just an off the wall question, the hangers you have on the pan, then connected by a hook and cable, look like something you would use to hang a deer with in the barn or garage, just asking. thanks pat

[Sugarmaker]

PDiamond, Folks,
Yea the stainless hangers are similar to that for hanging deer. Just a way to get a hold of the units! The hoist system allows me to lift the hood, the steamaway, and the pan off the arch by my self. Handy!
Off to work on the stack! Going to have to rig some fixtures to allow the fastening of the halves together! Will try to get some pictures as I assembly of the stack too. We have a couple inches of fresh snow this morning.
Thanks for checking on me. I think everyone must be on Facebook now days?
Regards,
Chris

[Sugarmaker]

Folks,
Spent some time setting up the tooling to work on this stainless smoke stack assembly. Three pieces: Front, Back and upper transition pipe. This is rectangular at the base 7 inch x 35 inch, tapering to 12 inch round for the transition. 80 and 1/2 inches is the assembly height. Will just fit under my 12 inch stack, I will figure a way to let the stack down to join them.

I took the pans back off tho use the arch as the support structure to build the base stack:
https://i.imgur.com/lgFYjoX.jpg

Set up some black walnut boards, cement block spacers and another board and we have a support!
https://i.imgur.com/3q3mhJV.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/CnGxlkJ.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/O9dKcX3.jpg

Off to do some pop riveting on the lap seams.
Malen at Stateline Stainless did a great job getting these halves ready for me to assemble!
Regards,
Chris

[Sugarmaker]

Folks,
Getting closer on the old King arch rebuild.
Spent the day in the sugarhouse working on this new smoke stack base.

https://i.imgur.com/e0UopcU.jpg

Riveted up the seams and bolted the transition piece to the top.
https://i.imgur.com/K8v2f7x.jpg

We have a stack! Took me all day putzing around with it.
https://i.imgur.com/qdS8MMv.jpg

Will try to get the pipe lowered into it tomorrow.
Regards,
Chris

[BAP]

Looks great. Good craftsmanship.

[Sugarmaker]

Folks,
BAP,
Thanks! Ever have one of those days where things just don't seem to go as planned? Well I lowered my 12 inch smoke stack gently down to the new base stack and it did not engage. Come to find out the upper portion was stuck on a seam right at the roof jack. Just wasn't going to come down any farther. So I raised it back up about 3 inches and am in the process of adding a stainless collar around the two. Will complete fastening it together tomorrow. Turns out this is ok because now my three guy wires will be nice and tight. I am not climbing up on the roof in this weather! Debating whether I should put my extra double and triple wall liners around my base stack? With the insulated arch I may have a colder sugarhouse??
Picked up 26 feet of 7/8 rope gasket for my rail to pan interface. Were getting there, just slowly!:)
Regards,
Chris

[Sugarmaker]

Folks,
Getting the stack assembly completed. Used zip screws for the fasteners. I was not impressed with them. Just dont seem to hold very well!
https://i.imgur.com/gbJ3Lzt.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/NIlT1bB.jpg

Decided to add the safety shield around the bottom of the base stack. We have a lot of visitors and need to be safe!

This is the second layer of the very back panel. it has holes to draw in air to cool the stack.
https://i.imgur.com/HVQaKaU.jpg

The holes are covered with a offset panel. At full boil you can put your bare hand on this outside panel.
https://i.imgur.com/a2Q5rz0.jpg

more in next post.......

[Sugarmaker]

The rest of the story:
Got the second layer for the base stack fit and in position:
https://i.imgur.com/K6Q8qUo.jpg


A coat of stove black ties it all together:
https://i.imgur.com/uZkvnzg.jpg

Should be able to set the pans this afternoon or tomorrow.
Thanks for checking in on me!

Regards,
Chris

[Sugarmaker]

Folks,
Neighbor Kieth, another sugarmaker, came over and helped me set the front pan. Rope gasket in the channel looks real good! I taped the rope in the corners and at the back of the rear pan, it did not move and no glue required. I think this may work real well. We will see how it looks after the first season! Added a 4 inch strip of white blanket between the pans.
https://i.imgur.com/vnTKOYA.jpg

Regards,
Chris

[Pdiamond]

Chris,
You have a lot of really neat items throughout your building on the walls. Who is the picture of the young lady to the left of the door and to the right of the door above the saw what are the papers, tally sheets from years past?

[Sugarmaker]

Pdiamond, Folks,
I can answer both of your questions. The picture is actually a old Coke tray. The items above the saw are 1/2 inch boards with names of folks that have visited the sugarhouse during out March Taste and Tour events for the last 16+ years. Each year I get about 8 boards filled with visitors (200-300) and some folks come back and look for their names! When I am in the sugarhouse I am never alone! I have several thousand names of friends and visitors with me! Could be deer hunting but its cold. So will work on the evaporator and try to solder a broken drain on the side of the steamaway.
Maybe get the hoods on too?
Thanks for checking on me!:)
Regards,
Chris

[Sugarmaker]

Folks,
The drain in the steamaway is fixed and have the hoods on the rig. Air systems completed and now need to complete the sap inlet piping. It is different due to moving the pans down 2 inches and also I am not planning to put the preheater back in the steamaway this time.
https://i.imgur.com/1SjtKwU.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/C8BJQLn.jpg

All this because I thought I should check the pan gasket!:)

Regards,
Chris

[heus]

Very impressive.

[Sugarmaker]

Jason,
Thanks! Whats in the works this coming season for your operation?
Regards,
Chris

[Pdiamond]

Chris,
Since you have everything almost all in place you may as well try a test boil, right? Just asking. Of course with deer season and Thanksgiviing coming up I would expect you would want to be out in the woods following sly Mr. whitetail. Best of luck

[Sugarmaker]

Pdiamond, Folks,
I was lucky and harvested a nice doe on the last day of archery season last Saturday. It is in the freezer and in 10 lbs of venison kielbasi too.
Probably won't do a test boil, till first sap. Most of these systems have been tested. But I do know that anything can happen when you change things!
Will get some 1 inch copper pipe and fittings for the feed lines. Also would like to make some stainless covers for the float boxes.
Hope things are good in Maple land, we are only about 3 months from the start of 2020 syrup season!
Thanks for checking on me!
Regards,
Chris

[Windy Acres]

sugarmaker, great job restoring that arch! thats some great craftsmanship!

[Sugarmaker]

Windy Acres,
Thanks for the compliment. This old arch has seen a hard life and it needed some attention. The stove black "stealth look" is compliments of neighbor and sugarmaker Kieth T. Couple years ago I was complaining how the sides of the arch had got hot and discolored. Keith suggested painting it. I have been happy with the results. Gives the old arch a fresh look for the next season. I covered the sides of the arch with 400 series stainless, and it has a tendency to rust over time if heated. So the black paint was perfect to improve the look of the old King.
Picked up the plumbing supplies for the sap line. Yikes 1 inch copper fittings are not cheap! I am going to make this so that it could be converted back to using the preheater in the hood if I desire.
Regards,
Chris

[Sugarmaker]

Folks,
Spent the afternoon fitting the sap feed pipe and OS bucket fill pipe. This is much simpler set up, but I saved all the plumbing from the old system. Not sure why but may try cold sap and not like it as much???
https://i.imgur.com/qZ509ET.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/WKy4MY4.jpg

A couple final pieces of insulattion in some cracks and this should be done! I have 40 splits I dont need if anyone wants them for $3.00 each. And also have a couple sheets of the insul board for $20 each.
Regards,
Chris

[heus]

Jason,
Thanks! Whats in the works this coming season for your operation?
Regards,
Chris
Chris you know me, always changing. Going back to simpler times. I sold my Smoky Lake evaporator and ordered an A&A raised flue 2x7 evaporator. Selling my RO and going back to about 100 buckets. Crazy, I know but I guess I just yearned for the times when I didnt have to worry about vacuum pumps, reverse osmosis, oil burners, etc. Going to be more work with the gathering, but I will enjoy that.

[Sugarmaker]

Jason,
Change is good! You can now be a consultant for most aspects of making syrup! Enjoy the time in the woods! Buckets are not a bad thing, and every one is a surprise when you walk up to it! Keep boiling! Those A&A rigs will make syrup like crazy! I used one for 15 years!
Regards,
Chris

[heus]

Chris I guess so :lol: In the past 10 years I have had 4 1/2 evaporators and 3 ro's!

[Sugarmaker]

Folks,
Just checking in.

Only about 2 months till 2020 syrup time! I am looking forward to testing on the old King arch with the AOF in its new location in the arch. Hoping my boil rate may improve too. And better draw off consistency.

Well the new stainless base weldment for the stack on the old King arch seems to be working well. We are getting a lot of rain lately and I have rain come down my stack. The new base is keeping it out of the arch!

I should be canning some syrup today. 10 gallons of Dark Robust waiting in the canner to jug up for stocking the shelves. Plus another 10 gallon of Amber after that. Have been making Maple Mustard and Maple BBQ also.

Here I was canning some Very Dark. It is just a tad heavy, but that's where its going to be.

https://i.imgur.com/GUfXj1i.jpg

Prior to canning I needed to bring some of it up a little in density. So I boiled it on the stove in small batches and added them to the draw off tank. Then added, mixed in the DE, and ran it all through the rebuilt Oberdorfer gear pump, and the Siro canister filter. A good pre season shake down test. Just needed to tighten the packing on the pump shaft.
https://i.imgur.com/0MD6REH.jpg?1

I am going to try to make some maple candy with tips I learned from Jake Moser at the LEME event!
Hope things are good out there!
Regards,
Chris

[Pdiamond]

Chris
Last year was my first year using my new smokey lake high output 2x4 raised flue evaporator. I really like how it boils. I only had about 65 taps last year and my biggest collection day was 200 gallons. I boiled that down in less than 5 hours. It was so much faster than my old 2x3 divided pan. I do not plan on any type of r.o. system. I plan on growing my tap count this year to 100. My boys and family like to come out and help which makes it lots of fun. I certainly hope everything you have done with your evaporator works well for you this coming season.

[Sugarmaker]

Pdiamond,
Sounds like you have a nice operation to make syrup and have your family involved to enjoy it also!

Yesterday was syrup canning day. 10 gallons of Dark and 10 gallons of Amber:
https://i.imgur.com/Tbh99i7.jpg

Great grand boys are here today raising heck!:)
Regards,
Chris

[Sugarmaker]

Folks,
I was talking to a friend and he said I had my 15 minutes of fame on youtube talking about my old arch rebuild. This was filmed by Peter Greg of the Maple News and Maple Trader.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p1aqqJbxR_A

Regards,
Chris

[Sugarmaker]

Folks,
I would recommend not following my lead!:)

Some local sugarmakers got me excited a week ago. As usual the cold settles in after I tap. Several good things happened. I did get to go see said sugarmakers boil twice. Nice to see how others make quality syrup too. I did get to see how a bubbler system works to reduce the foam up during boiling and how pans quickly boil over when the power goes off! I believe there should be a limit to the number of Sugarmakers in a sugarhouse at any one time! I think the max number should be three. More than that and things start to go bad. Like me dumping syrup on the floor, the power going out and the front pan boiling over. Anyway despite me jinxing them they managed to make 50 gallons of very nice Golden syrup.

While I was boiling on Wed morning the neighbor dropped in and said her family would like to try to tap some trees and collect some sap. So they are stopping up in a hour and I am going to give them the short version of getting sap. Not sure where this is going but I hope they have fun and learn some things about making syrup. By the way I had the limit of sugarmakers in the sugarhouse too. Scott, Jim and I for most of the boil, Then Scott had to leave so old time sugarmaker Gary could come in! With just three things worked very well!

On this refurb of the old King arch.
Insulated door worked well. I did see that the stainless had begun to warp a little.
The rebuild rig preformed very well in all areas.
Stack temp 350 F
Air over fire at correct lower functioned good. Ran it almost wide open.
less heat off the sides of the arch due to insulation and new brick. Therefore more heat making syrup.
pan gasket locator system was awesome. no visual gaps between pan and arch, and the gasket cant move.
New stack functioned as it should. That will give me piece of mind, as the old one was almost burnt out due to over firing years ago.
made 10 gallons of syrup and the pans are ready to go with about 7 gallons of syrup (in process, sweet) still in there.
Rig ran at about 140 gallons plus per hour. Had 840 gallons to start. boiled 6 hours from cold start to shut down.
So the refurb on the arch may have improved my boiling rate a little.
300 sq inches of increased boiling area under the pans around the edges where the pan gasket locator raises the pan off the rail.
The gradient was very good through out the boil, which I had issues with on the old top rail AOF system. (Air was to close to the pan, cooling the area where you were trying to get the hottest).
All in all it was good to get started and get the rig tested on a little. That size run is a little more than I usually have in a day.
https://i.imgur.com/skSVTi7.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/jUX8llI.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/mMRrGlW.jpg
Regards,
Chris

[heus]

Looking good Chris.

[ddociam]

I really appreciate this. It’s inspiring to see such excellent work and to see something old being used as it was made for.
My little operation is growing and I’m going from about 130 Taos on buckets to 600 of which 400 is on tubing. Expanding my RO from one 4x40 to three.
I have a 2x4 Smoky lake hybrid that is going to get a workout this year. I have my eye on a 3x12 king but I don’t have the funds for it yet. I’m still filtering with a flat filter but expect to upgrade that next year.
It will be a lot of work this year as I work out the kinks and see where I need the most help. I plan to take the syrup season off from my day job and get a knee replaced on May 5. I can’t wait to get it all up and running.
Jerry


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