Heavy Syrup

[to100]

I had a boil over and used a prefilter only. I was not ready to use my finish filter set up. I have 3/4 gallon to finish.
The cold test is 73 Brix and today hope to final filter with orlon/Synthetic cone filter with couple prefilter.
I have read about distilled water added to it.
Will this need to be boiled to 218*. Was this boil over above this temperature?
Would bring to boil and add distilled water be enough to do final filter and then be able to bottle?

[Road's End]

I normally use permeate from the RO for heavy syrup so distilled is the same idea. Sap works fine as well just make sure it's clean if you add it after filtering. You need to heat it up to bottle but boiling isn't necessary in my opinion, just be sure you mix it well and adjust accordingly on your hydrometer for the temperature the syrup is at.

[Run Forest Run!]

If my syrup is heavy I add boiled distilled water until it is the right density. In fact, I am doing that tonight with my last two batches.

[buck3m]

I had a boil over and used a prefilter only. I was not ready to use my finish filter set up. I have 3/4 gallon to finish.
The cold test is 73 Brix and today hope to final filter with orlon/Synthetic cone filter with couple prefilter.
I have read about distilled water added to it.
Will this need to be boiled to 218*. Was this boil over above this temperature?
Would bring to boil and add distilled water be enough to do final filter and then be able to bottle?

You don't need to bring it to boil again.

I would avoid heating very heavy syrup like that until it has been thinned first.

I would add water (I don't think distilled is necessary) until it is the correct brix (make sure to adjust for temperature) then heat it until about 200 degrees, filter it, then can it ASAP.

[maple flats]

I always add permeate, clean sap, almost syrup or distilled water. You could also add water if it is rather soft but not softened. Bottled spring water is another option.
Yesterday when I tested a batch being put into a barrel, I actually had to mix 2 whole gal. of permeate and blend it in well before putting it in the 26.5 gal barrel. Must be the barometric pressure changed and I failed to recheck, making the auto draw open at a too dense temperature. I'll check more often to minimize that. It doesn't hurt anything but it just takes time to adjust the density.

[to100]

Thanks for info, condfirmed what I thought to do.

Now it is light 65 Brix. I had added some light near that bottomed out in the cup at -50 Brix.
One ladle full, stir, test @60*. I did this twice then it jumped up. Next I slowly heated up to 150* and
Waiting for it to cool down tonight to test again. I did not bring to a boil.
Any suggestions?
Thanks

[to100]

I did a test again Thursday morning with same results.
What should I do next?

[buck3m]

I think a thorough mixing before retesting is important. I usually test and thin a mostly full five gallon bucket at a time. The way I do it is to pour into another bucket, and then back into the first.

You can test the brix at any temperature if you use an adjustment chart.

If it's too thin now, you can save it to mix with a slightly heavy future batch, or boil it down more.

[to100]

My lucky stars where out at last night’s boil was heavy and blended both to a perfect Brix.
Should I filter with wool or synthetic cone? I have only used cone prefilter. There was the usual dark waxy sediment at the bottom of pot. I just went to town and I decided to filter, which you do before canning.
Thanks