2x2 build - Looking for fire door and stack transition plans/pictures/descriptions

[TimJ]

I was going to use a barrel to build an arch for my 2x2 pan, but after taking a cutoff wheel to my barrel I decided it would be waaay better to build from scratch - something like the davy jones build.

I think it is pretty straightforward except for two things:

1. DOOR
I have a kit for turning a barrel into a wood stove - the one with the legs and door and stovepipe - but the door on that is a little small

So I have been thinking about different ideas for a door and was hoping to get some ideas from here.
Can anyone point me to some resources for a decent design that is not too complicated for a newbie welder?

2. Base stack transition
The kit comes with a 6" collar that screws onto a standard metal barrel - but if I am going to have a 24" wide flat plate instead that rounded collar is not going to lie flat and I'd rather not try to stuff the gaps with insulation.
I looked at a few vendors for base stack things and they are $$$.
I was wondering what other people may have used for a quick and easy 6" stove pipe mounting collar


The goal of this arch is to allow some friends to learn how to sugar and to use this as a finishing pan at the end of the season when we are out of sap and have too little to run in a 2x6.

Thanks
tim

[maple flats]

For the stack, cut a section from the end of the barrel you started on. Use about 8" of the end of the barrel and use a full half round. Then fill in the open side and weld it closed as your transition. At the top cut in the 6" stack part the kit supplies. On a 2x2 the door would work, but then find something bigger for the second season. It will work, but bigger would work better.

[Hunt4sap]

I have a barrel evaporator I'm selling with SS pan, everything included to take raw sap to syrup
I built a bigger setup this year is why I'm selling, I'm in Ohio

[Sugarmaker]

Some pictures of a door I built for a neighbor. Not extremely complicated and good practice if you havent welded much. May be enough to give you a idea?

http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee170/Sugarmaker/keiths%20door/CIMG3420.jpg

I think this was 1/8 thick steel.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee170/Sugarmaker/keiths%20door/CIMG3415.jpg

Top was round only to match his opening.

Goal was a 2 inch thick insulated door to replace the cast one that got very hot.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee170/Sugarmaker/keiths%20door/CIMG3418.jpg

http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee170/Sugarmaker/keiths%20door/CIMG3426.jpg

Stuffed with the soft fire proof insulation and a piece of stainless screen bolted over the insulation.

Regards,
Chris

[crzypete]

1907019071

I built a door out of angle iron and firebrick. I used weld on hinges, and tabbed together a basic lock. pretty easy and survived its first season- although the center piece of metal did distort, but no loss of performance.

Pete

[TimJ]

Thanks to all, and since I got so much out of reading posts like these, I will put up some pictures of my build in progress.
This post shows my attempt to start with a barrel. I made a mistake cutting, which I could fix, however I discovered that bending the barrel sides was a PITA and it might be a lot simpler in the long run to just build from scratch...

Pics of the wasted barrel:

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And a pic of my horrible plasma cutting attempt19074

[TimJ]

Fitting up and welding the rectangle for the top rails.
I had a choice between 1.25" and 2" angle already lying around. I overbuilt by a mile using 2"
Next time I would use 1.25" or 1.5"

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[Sugarmaker]

I think you have the equipment and skills to build the arch and the door, if you want. All it takes is time and some money!:)
Your frame looks real good. Nothing wrong with being a little heavy on this stuff. A roaring fire and a pan full of boil sap is not the time to be second guessing the strength of your rig.
Regards,
Chris

[TimJ]

My welding is truly awful, but I am getting better.

Here it is with legs

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pan on top. It actually fits and is kinda level. Amazing19085

[raptorfan85]

Looks like you got a great start. When I built mine it was a little intimidating at first, just focus on one thing at a time. Pretty soon you are done! Ugly welds can always be ground to look good after, just make sure they are strong. Keep up the good work.

[Sugarmaker]

My welding is truly awful, but I am getting better.

Here it is with legs

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pan on top. It actually fits and is kinda level. Amazing19085

Several basic things to improving your welding skills. First is visibility. If you dont have one get a good hood that has the instant darkening feature. next is make sure you can see while your welding. get in good position. turn the part to get it in a horizontal position. and if you need a magnifier inside the hood get that too. (that's usually a age thing:)) Next biggest is the welder. Not sure what you have? Mig systems are very user friendly. One with gas shielded are the best type and with good heat controls. For the stuff your welding you should be able to crank it up and burn in the weld pretty good without fear of hurting anything.
Last is practice!
Your doing good! You can fabricate a lot of things for this hobby so hone your welding skills.
Regards,
Chris

[TimJ]

Gotta have adjustable legs/feet.

I have seen projects where people weld 2 sides of a nut to angle iron legs. I wanted more strength so I decide to make brackets, drill oversized hole, mount the nut on the underside and weld the nut to the bracket, then weld the bracket to the leg. This would spread the load across more area. At least that is what I figured.

One of the nuts is trashed - I must have heated it too much or got splatter in the threads - so I will cut it out, but here are the pics

Set up: I tightened a nut on the front and back of the bracket to snug it up, then spot welded two sides. I backed the bolt out, jammed a stick in the nut and finished welding all sides.

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Then I welded each bracket to bottom of each leg.
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[Super Sapper]

Leave a bolt in the nut when welding. This will save the threads. You can use a sacrificial bolt in case you get splatter on the threads. I used 3/4 inch nuts and bolts and just welded the nut to the inside of the upright angle iron.

[TimJ]

Leave a bolt in the nut when welding. This will save the threads. You can use a sacrificial bolt in case you get splatter on the threads. I used 3/4 inch nuts and bolts and just welded the nut to the inside of the upright angle iron.

I used the correct size bolt in the hole when tacking, then switched to a wooden dowel and a smaller bolt that just dropped in - to protect the nuts when completing the weld. Worked except for one - where I forgot to put in the dowel when I finished a weld. So, will cut that one off and re-weld a new nut.

Welding nuts to inside of angle iron probably would have worked for me, but I have very little experience and was unsure if my welds would be good enough. The way I did it was overkill but will work well. In the future 7/8 or 3/4 inch nuts welded to the inside of the angle are the way to go.

Latest pics:
Test fitting back plate where I need to attach the collar/transition for the stack

I wish I had a sheet metal roller to make the collar...
(shown in the pic is the collar from a vogelzang kit - I have not figured out a simple way to use it given the radius it has on the underside)

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[Sugarmaker]

Tim,
Your weld on that first nut looks very good. Frame looks good too. You can roll sheet metal on the edge of a solid bench with the metal clamped, then gently apply force and bend a little. move the sheet and repeat till you have what you need.
Regards,
Chris

[HondoLane]

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I just made my own base stack from 18ga. I laid it out from like the guy in this video. My base stack was 20”x4” rectangle base which transitions to a round 6” top.

https://youtu.be/6fUDGRTx5xQ

Make it in 2 halves and practice your sheet metal welding. Fit up both seams tight. Stitch weld it about an inch and move to a new spot to spread around the heat.

[TimJ]

Thanks all for the suggestions and pics,
I acquired a roller at an auction and made my own base stack collar thing.
The 6" home depot cheap metal stacks slide right onto it

Welding sheet metal is, uh, something that needs practice. The welds are crappy, but the thing will work.

I bent some more metal to make a duct for the blower. But i might just mount directly like the other pics I have seen.

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I used an 8" sheet and after test fitting i realized it was way too long so I cut the tube in half - now I have another collar for the next one I build! :)

[TimJ]

Fitting up the mounts for the blower.

I had made a duct, but the extra work to bring it through the back wall and keep it air tight was more time that I didn't have to spend.

I am going to weld the bolt heads on the inside of the rear firebox wall

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[TimJ]

Made progress this weekend.

basically all that is left if grinding, tack in the floor, put two sides on, paint and the door.

The door is what started this whole thread...

Here are the mounts for the blower
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Viewed from other side:
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Collar fits inside the smokestack
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Pretty happy with how it has come together so far.
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[ACollette]

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Here is my door configuration. I used angle iron. Made a lip from the firebox that flares outward so the door nests onto it. I ran stove gasket on the inside to make it airtight. The center of the door is covered with fiber blanket which is bolted onto the door. I used a cam action trailer door latch kit to secure the door ($39.00) online. I've used this set up for two years without issue.

[TimJ]

Thanks ACollette - I think I will incorporate that door kit thing

[TimJ]

I framed out an opening in the front of the arch using 2x2 angle.
Then I built a door frame similarly

I would like to go back and re-do two things, but no biggie - this will work fine.
I will likely use ceramic board insulation in the door and sandwich it between two sheets.
I purchased some wood stove door rope from amazon and will place it so that it gets sandwiched between the "interlocking" angle

I bought the cam door lock kit and will mount it like the following - with the latch stowing away on the door as opposed to the other way I have seen it where the latch mechanism crosses the door opening.

Here is the model (from our Leader 2x6)
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Test fit - door frame closed
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Door open
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[TimJ]

The door locking mechanism is complete.
I bought the cam lock kit from eTrailer.com

Thanks for the suggestion - I would recommend this to everyone who is spending the time to build an arch - you can't ask for a better latching and locking mechanism. Leader uses it on their arches.

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All that is left are some skin panels, paint and insulation!
Just in time

[TimJ]

Skinned door and sides. Need to cut and weld the bottom. Then paint!

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[mol1jb]

Very impressive build. Good work