Finalizing My Design

[HondoLane]

This is my second year coming up and I went all-in on building a 16x24 sugar shack. Its part storage by 1/2 of it will be dedicated to my hobby setup. I plan on running a 2x3 arch and I'm going to tap about 25 trees.

I have a few design/modification questions. I am going with a set of Jamaica Cottage Shop plans and it will have a 4x8 functional cupola. I am going to shift the cupola more towards the end where my arch will be.

Will the 4x8 cupola with (2) 12"x72" doors on both sides be sufficient to ventilate the steam?
I see that the metal roof is exposed inside of the sugar shack. Should I insulate the underside of the roof?
How do most people run the smoke stack through the roof?

Thanks in advance!!

Matt

[phil-t]

I run a leader half pint inside a 12X 10 Amish style shed, metal roof (exposed inside, no insulation) with a 3X6 cupola over the evaporator, the stack runs straight up through the roof.
Don't have much trouble with steam inside. There are times, I believe with the right (or wrong) weather conditions "barometric pressure?" that I get some steam inside. It's generally so hot inside that I run with the door mostly open.

[HondoLane]

That’s good insight. I’m hoping with my half pint sized evaporator and the size of the cupola will suffice. I see in my plans, the area where the cupola mounts is really reinforced with a more solid 1” board pattern as opposed to spaced out perlins. I’m wondering if I added that “double bubble” foil faced insulation I’d almost eliminate any condensation from dripping? I can live with some moisture... just don’t want a rain forest.

Does anyone have any pictures of how they did their roof jack? I plan on placing my arch dead center under the peak and the pan centered under the cupola. I was planning on black pipe halfway up then switching to an insulated pipe to pass through the roof and terminate outside.

[maple flats]

With the bare steel roofing exposed inside, you will get rain in there, as some steam hits the colder steel and condenses. You have at least 2 options, maybe more. Add a layer of plywood or OSB or similar on the rafters before the steel goes on or a second option, make a hood with steam stack and run it either into the cupola or out thru the roof. I had 3 different evaporator set ups with home made hoods before my current one with a factory hood. If you make a hood, design it with a gutter system and drain, because lots of steam will condense and run back into the pan to be boiled again and again without it. Also, under the steam stack make a shallow funnel to catch the stack condensate and send it to the gutter you make. My gutters were made of 1x1x1 aluminum channel, mitered at the corners and "welded" using aluminum rod and a map gas torch. The drain was added the same way, another 5-6" long aluminum channel "welded" to a good place to run the drain and catch some hot water. One hint on the drain, slope it slightly away from the hood so the drips fall off rather than follow the channel back on the underside and then run down the pan and wet the gasket under the pan. A 2-3 degree slope prevents that.

[Sugarmaker]

Welcome,
I am not familiar with plans for a shop in Jamacia? Didnt even know they made syrup down there. I am familiar with great lakes sugarhouse designs and steam. If you want all the steam out, think about some tight fitting low hoods and steam pipes. If not invest in rain coats.
I hope you have a good season. Your sugarhouse size sounds good. I have that size for the evaporator room, then additions for wood and kitchen area.
Regards,
Chris

[HondoLane]

HAHA.. Jamaicans even had a bobsled team once too.. So since my last post, I have researched non stop.. now I feel versed enough to move forward. Next is what size stack for my 2x3? AND does anyone have any pictures of how they run their flip cap line?

[tombaisley]

Do you get condensation and dripping from the exposed metal roofing?

[maple flats]

On a 2x3 a 6" stack is used.
Yes, tombaisley, it will rain if the steel roofing is exposed, unless you make a hood to carry the steam out. If making a hood, make a gutter around the bottom, with a drain, that will give you some hot water. Also, hang a rather flat funnel under the stack to catch condensate dripping out of the stack and channel it to the gutter.

[HondoLane]

Thanks for all of the help so far!! Things are coming along!!

18980

[Sugarmaker]

That is looking real good! This was the time of the year I build mine 18 years ago. Your coming along nicely =. Yea 6 inch should be fine for stack on that rig.
Regards,
Chris

[maple flats]

By the way, I don't think I answered your first question. Yes the cupola will be large enough. With no hood, a 2x3 pan wants a 6 sq. ft. cupola opening.

[HondoLane]

Thanks for all of your help. I’m sure to have some more questions as I roll along here. Got a whiff of a wood stove fire the other day. It got the adrenaline flowing to motivate me in the 20 degree winds!!

[HondoLane]

19031

Making Progress!!

[Sugarmaker]

HondoLane,
That looks very good! Congratulations on the new sugarhouse!
Regards,
Chris

[HondoLane]

Cupola doors finished!

19051

[maple flats]

It look like the cupola doors will swing down and outward. That is good, just make sure you design a stop so they do not tilt out much past level. They do want to slope down so you don't channel rain or melting snow inside but if they tilt too far they become very hard to close. The stops can be as simple or as fancy as you want. A simple light weight check chain or rope does well, then use a rope and pulley to close it or them. For mine both sides open at the same time and one rope pulls them both closed.

[HondoLane]

19129

Almost there! Cupola is complete. Doors work great. I went with the swing down style. Went with a 2 pulley setup. Doors close with ease. I also repurposed some parts from my Hobie Cat to limit the opening.

Also was able to fab up a stack cap. Need to get the evaporator set and put the stack up.

[HondoLane]

Got a question... so I set my arch and installed my stack. I’m looking at only 6” of clearance from my base stack to the wall.

What can I use to protect my wall from burning? I have some corrugated steel and can fasten 1” ceramic blanket to the backside. I also have some durock I can use to.

The rest of my stack is double wall and has a rated 2” clearance.

[maple flats]

The 1" ceramic and the corrugated steel will do it well, just be sure to not compress the insulation when you mount it.

[HondoLane]

What is the clearance of 1” ceramic insulation?

[Cjadamec]

What is the clearance of 1” ceramic insulation?

You should be fine with a 6" clearance if you use the metal and ceramic as a heat shield.

As a point of reference class A insulated chimney is 1" of ceramic insulation between two pieces of stainless steel. The clearance for class A chimney is generally considered 2".

Double wall stove pipe is just two layers of metal separated by a 1" air gap. Double wall stove pipe has a 6" clearance to combustibles and an 8" clearance to the roof.

Single wall stove pipe requires 18" of clearance.

[HondoLane]

Ok. I’m tracking now. I have the class A then. Mis-spoke when I said double wall.