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View Full Version : Gravity-fed main line



L&msugarbush
10-08-2018, 10:53 PM
I have a steep ridge with about a 40% grade that has 3/16 gravity-fed line's running down it and then into a collection tank at the bottom. Then from the bottom of the ridge (my collection tank!)to my Sugar Shack is 780 ft at a 2% grade. The question is... would it possible to due away with the tank and do a gravity fed mainline without vacuum all the way down to the sugar shack? let's say maybe a 1-inch Mainline!
I only have a hundred Taps on the ridge as of right now but could do 400 or so. Would love to hear everybody's input, thanks!

maple flats
10-09-2018, 07:29 AM
Yes you can join 3/16 to the mainline as long as you keep the 2% grade. Just use saddles to join each 3/16 to the mainline, do not join them together before entering the mainline. There are many different saddles available out there, but since I first tried the DSD saddle I've used no others. As others in my system fail, the get changed to the DSD.
With the DSD, just be careful not to over tighten the SS band clamp, it will actually squeeze a waist into the mainline. If one needs tweaking, just give the clamp a slight turn on the screw.
For the mainline on gravity, be certain you have no dips. If necessary you may in places need to add some posts to support the line. Another item I really like from DSD is their stubby mainline drill bit. Just chuck it in a cordless drill and drill the hole for a saddle in the line, it is short enough so it will not go thru the opposite side and the point is good enough that you need nothing to hold the bit from dancing as you start to drill. I've only gotten them from DSD, others might of started making them too by now, I do not know. If you never use that bit on anything other than drilling mainline it may well last 20, 30 or more years.

bmbmkr
10-09-2018, 09:41 AM
Ive got 1400' of 3/4 mainline on 2% grade. 250 3/16 feeding it. I shot it with a transit, and have no more than 200-300' between strainers on the high tensile wire. The first year I had 1100' I had a 600' run between strainers and bit was too much, had a few days I had to go out and manually lift, side tying helped some. It was my first attempt at running g a mainline, without ever seeing one in person. Got 99% of my info here on trader. Last year I took the 1100' run down, and moved it down the slope to pick up another 100 trees. That'll teach one to do it right the first time.

L&msugarbush
10-10-2018, 11:20 PM
thanks for the info on the Saddles Dave!

L&msugarbush
10-10-2018, 11:23 PM
Thanks for the info on the strainers bmbmkr... all good info! Keep it coming guys and thanks for the reply's!

maple flats
10-11-2018, 09:12 AM
Another thing about running the mainline. As bmbmkr said, run a few shorter lines rather than 1 long one for the support wire. Over the years I've used various methods, I first just ran wooden blocks with a saw groove to hold the wire to protect the tree then ran the wire around the tree and I soon found that it was nearly impossible to move the blocks so the tree did not grow around the blocks. I tried a few ideas, but then settled on a sturdy hook, screwed into the tree. I bought a box (50) of the hooks you see in utility poles. I bought them online from a company who sells to utility companies. I put them in until 3 threads remain exposed. As that anchor tree grows I use a come along and a fence stretcher to hold the wire, I unhook the wire and back the hook out 3 turns then I re-hook the wire and add a side tie or 2 to increase tension so the line is tight. If you have 780' of that mainline, run the support wire in 2 or 3 steps, not all in one. If a tree or large limb come down on it, you will have a far easier time fixing the line. For the anchor trees try to use non maples and look for healthy middle aged trees, not too small or ones that would be prone to die in a few years. When I install a hook I drill a pilot hole about the same diameter as the shank inside of the threads, then I drive it in with a hammer. As I drive it in, it will turn a little because of the threads, when in, I turn it just enough to have the hook point straight up.

L&msugarbush
10-11-2018, 10:44 PM
Glad you guy's mentioned that about the main wire because I was going to do it in one stretch LOL. definitely makes sense doing it in sections for future tree damage and faster repairs!!!

mol1jb
10-12-2018, 04:24 PM
This summer I ran a main line wire 400ft at the bottom of the ravine. It followed the ravine down to my sap shack and had enough turns that doing one line was quite difficult. If I had to do it again I would have run several wires along each straight section to avoid having to tension one wire through multiple turns.