What should I look for in a used milk tank

[Maple River Sugar]

I will be looking at a used milk bulk tank this week to use as sap storage, non vac, non refrigerated. This will be my first time inspecting a tank. Other than the obvious what are somethings I should look for so I don't end up making repairs to it? There is a small amount of cosmetic damage to the exterior but that is all I can see in the pictures.

I am also looking at a Wes Fab filter press.

Whatever advice you can share is greatly appreciated.

[minehart gap]

The obvious: size, no leaks, etc...
How is it mounted to where it currently is? Are the feet concreted in and you need to either cut the feet or chip out the concrete? Will you have the ability to move/haul it? How will you install it at your location? Can it be removed from current location without removing a wall, is that wall wood or block? Weight? What fitting type is the outlet? Does a valve (working) come with it? Are all of the seals there and in good shape (if you are putting it outside)?

[maple flats]

Does it have the cover(s)? You can make covers but never are they as good as the originals.

[minehart gap]

Agreed Dave. I'm in the middle of dealing with that right now but it didn't even cross my mind to mention it.

[Haynes Forest Products]

I have 4 dairy tanks and have sold or given away many others and had one stolen. I have never had to repair one. They can have plenty of outer skin damage and never suffer an interior problem. Covers are a must but but they can be a PITA if you constantly opening the lid. I used a glass cover off a cheap skillet and it was nice because you could see thru it.

Make sure it will fit your needs and don't build your shack around it if your growing. Westfab is a good press if you like the price and size do it.

[Maplewalnut]

I have never had one leak either and most people selling the tanks are honest people. Although external skin cosmetic damage certainly doesn't affect the integrity of the inside tank you may need to think about where you are putting the tank. If its going out in the middle of the woods it probably isnt as much a concern as if you were putting it in or next to the sugar house especially if you were thinking of participating in Open houses or the like in the future. Perception is everything and people are turned off by dirty sugar houses and beat up damaged equipment. Plan a little for the future will save you some headaches. Lids are almost a must as others have said and make sure to check the outside drain. If the tank has been dropped or manhandled before that is usually the part of the tank to absorb the fall first since it sticks out

good luck

[Maple River Sugar]

Thanks for all of the advice on this topic I really do appreciate the insight that is shared on the forum and the patience for some basic questions.
I'm headed to take a look at this tank this morning and also to pick up a Wes Fab short bank filter press. If everything goes as planned this will be a huge step forward in my fledgling operation.

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[Super Sapper]

Looks good, the valve looks to be similar to a ball valve but made to take apart to clean. If shutting while you have liquid in the tank you will have liquid inside the valve and may freeze and cause problems. They are a standard take apart to clean valve in the dairy industry.

[wnybassman]

If shutting while you have liquid in the tank you will have liquid inside the valve and may freeze and cause problems.

I have the same valve on my 400 gallons woods tank. It is a low profile tank so I am able to reach in and put a food grade rubber stopper on the inside of the drain hole and open the valve to clear it out, preventing it from freezing.

[Haynes Forest Products]

I also have the same type of valve on one of my field tanks. If you decide to keep it I would take it appart and clean it up with a scrub pad and then lightly grease it. I also will also loosen the screw knob/nut and open and close it. Mine leaks if I don't give it a smack on the handle side right square in the center with a hammer and then give the knob a little help with pliers. I have never had it crack or freeze but then again I shut the valve when the tank is empty so the inside is free of liquid.

NICE looking upgrades you will never regret getting that tank.

[maple flats]

when you get the tank home, remove that valve and get close up pics of the threads. A ball valve is asking for trouble. Most milk tank valves are called a butterfly valve. They are costly, but the valves from Brewer's hardware are similat to milk tank valves and will not burst when they freeze. The ball valves burst if closed with sap filling the ball, when it freezes the ice has no place to expand and that bursts the valve. If you don't want to do9 it by getting a proper valve you can protect the ball valve by adding a second ball valve. Then when done pumping, close the first valve and open the second on and empty the line. Then close the second one and open the first. That way the second valve has no water in the ball and the first one is full open and thus neither one will burst.. The first one is the one closest to the tank.

[Haynes Forest Products]

I might also add that ball valves have a hidden danger that most users don't know about and that is the trapped liquid that surrounds the ball when in the closed position.
When a inline ball valve is opened there is a small amount of liquid that stays trapped inside the casting void and will bulge out the sides of the valve. Metal valves such as SS, Bronze and Brass will not show signs of this damage in most cases but the valve will still work but over time it will develop leaks. A PVC valve will split and break apart due to its inability to stretch. Unused ball valves should be set at a 45 degree angle to allow the liquids to drain from all areas of the valve. Working on hundreds of irrigation systems I will find that as you transition from closed to open and vise versa water will spray out the side of the valve but will seal up in either the open or closed position but can develop a small leak.

I use a lot of the PVC slide gates that are used on spas because they don't trap liquid inside themselves.

[Haynes Forest Products]

https://www.ebay.com/p/Swimming-Pool-Spa-3-Way-Diverter-Valve-Port-Female-Threaded-Pipe-Shut-off-PVC/3003929749?iid=122562912254&_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26 asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3D0f08afad8e0e4c13952f 382b83f8e687%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26 mehot%3Dlo%26sd%3D142938753557%26itm%3D12256291225 4&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

This style valve is a cheap alternative when plumbing bulk tanks in to your system. I have 3 SS bulk tanks tied together that feed into my shack into the RO. One of the biggest challenges is to be able to store sap in on tank and wash the others without interrupting the operation. When you simply plumb the tank into the shack you make cleaning it a challenge so using this style valve allows you to divert the sap to the shack or to the ground for cleaning or to another tank. This style only divers so you will need a shut off valve or a cap to close it off.

When it comes to freezing conditions I have heat tape on everything outside so under any conditions I can keep going.

[Maple River Sugar]

Well I made it home with the tank also a press and I also picked up a transfer pump. Thanks for the advice on everything, the valve will need some work. I feel blessed.[ 18835ATTACH=CONFIG]18833[/ATTACH]18834

[maple flats]

Congratulations, you made some good purchases.

[maple flats]

Was the compressor available too? While you may not want to connect it or test to see if both work now, you might in the future. An operating tank is a huge improvement, one that most do not have. If it is available, consider it.

[Maple River Sugar]

It wasn't.

Thanks

[Maple River Sugar]

The valve on the tank is 2 inches wide. What would some suggestions be on getting a new valve that would match up with the tank threads using the tri-clover style of valves. My concern is I don't know the style of thread on the tank and would hate to order the wrong fitting.
The tank is a Sunset.

[Old Farmer]

Drilling out a ball valve like the one shown solves the freezing problem. This is one that was on one of my stock watering tanks.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181119/74d813d0e1d341751aeaaf53b91129e8.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[Maple River Sugar]

I have gotten my adapter for my dairy tank which is bevel to triclamp 1.5". I was going to place a 1.5" butterfly valve at the dairy tank and run a tc extension tube to a 3-way ball valve. From the 3-way valve I would run an reducer extension to the sprinkler pump. My thoughts are i could pump off the 275 gallon in the back of my truck to the dairy tank utilizing the sprinkler pump, then adjust the position to use the sprinkler pump to draw from the dairy tank and fill the head tank.

Does this setup sound logical? Use of valve types okay?

Thanks

[Maple River Sugar]

I have come up with a schematic for my plumbing plan. Any suggestions or streamlining would much appreciated. The 3-way valves A and B would allow me to off load from my truck and pump to my bulk tank, the first one valve A would allow me to pull from my transfer tank into my bulk tank and then flushed out via a hose valve B.

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