Block vs Barrel

[ParadiseFarmNY]

I'm a newb to the sugaring world. Spring 2017 my cousin and I dipped our toes in, and made a couple of pints of syrup using a turkey fryer and propane. This past spring we kicked up production and made a couple of gallons of syrup. We used loosely stacked blocks, chafing pans and a wood fire. By the end our blocks had all tilted, cracked, etc. requiring reconstruction. For next spring we hope to increase production again. Are we better off refining and mortaring our block arch or getting a barrel and fashioning it into a DIY barrel evaporator? Thanks.

[mol1jb]

I think this mostly depends if you like working with mortar or metal better. Both types can work good if built well. In either design I would incorporate a blower. A barrel evap can be more portable if that is important. As we all seem to add taps every year I would encourage to build on the larger side of what you think you will need so you can accommodate more taps in the future without having to rebuild.

[Haynes Forest Products]

Cement blocks are not high heat resistant. they do not do well with direct heat. I strongly recommend that you insulate the walls and any cement that is in direct contact with flames. Mortar will help keep it straight and stabilize it it but will crumble after a season of cooking. Arch board with fire blanket is your best method of making the cement blocks last longer. Plus fill the spaces with sand.

[Russell Lampron]

I recommend building an oil tank arch and having a pan made for that or use steam table pans. A properly designed firebox lined with firebrick and a flat pan will evaporate about 5gph and will do more with a blower. There are alot of guys here that have made oil tank arches so that you can get design ideas.

[n8hutch]

I Agree with Russ, An Oil Tank Arch is a superior option to a block arch, you can get up off the ground with one, its easier to level if things move in the spring. An oil tank arch will have some Value when you are ready to upgrade to another evaporator. You cant go wrong.

[Johnny Yooper]

+1 on the oil tank arch; I started with a turkey fryer, then built an arch from a very old water tank, then went to an oil tank arch, added a copper coil preheater around the chimney and added a blower (air under fire) which was the absolute best addition so far. Been very happy with the oil tank arch setup, I run a 2x4 pan and a 16"x2'pan simultaneously. Whatever you build, pay attention to insulating the rig - keep as much heat inside and directed to the bottom of the pan(s) as possible; I did that when I went from the water tank to the oil tank arch and what a big difference; I have one inch thick insulating board and old thick fire brick in front of that lining the entire interior; made a huge difference.

[Dennis H.]

If you are good with working with brick and have a nice permanent location then go the brick route just remember to firebrick to line the inside to prolong the base of the evap.
If you are good with working with metal than make an arch out of steel. I would just have to add one thing, do not use a barrel. I started out in this crazy maple hobby by building a barrel evap. there are no straight lines in a barrel! what a Pain in the A$$. I would of been further ahead if I just went and bought a little more angle iron and some steel sheet.

Which ever route that you choose, I would find my pan 1st. that way you know the exact size that you will need to build the arch.

[maple flats]

If you build an arch, as stated, get the pan first. Then build the arch with 3/8-1/2" overlap of the pan onto the arch. Lets say the pan measures 24" wide, the opening for that width should be 23-23.25" wide, the outer width can be anything over that within reason. Especially if you plan room for firebrick. Having more overlap creates a strip on the pan with very little heat transfer, the wider that strip the poorer the boil in the pan. A pan needs the heat applied directly to the bottom.