Problems with my 2 x 6 pan

[jimmyd]

need a little help here. This is the second year with my home made arch with a 2 x 6 pan. Last year I just used it as one big batch pan. This year I added two dividers to try and make it a continuous flow system. First problem. Having trouble keeping the bottom of the pan flat. As soon as I get the sap boiling the Pan starts to buckle enough that sap can get under the dividers which kind of defeats the whole reason for dividers. Second problem. Because the pan is 6 feet long I'm having trouble keeping the back of the pan boiling. From what I have read you will not be able to keep a gradient if the whole pan is not boiling. Would I be better of with two smaller pans?

[BSD]

work on getting better draft and more fire combustion (blower).

if the sap is getting under the dividers, they're non-functional, you have to stiffen up the pan.

[jimmyd]

I do have a crude blower system and I have a 12' chimney. Not sure what else could be done?

[maple flats]

The dividers should be attached full length, either lead free soldered or welded. The problem now will be that you have sugar and niter under the divider and neither will work good. On your dividers did you bend a 90 on the bottom when you made them? If yes, you can try to clean the top surface of the bend and the adjacent portion of the pan bottom, then use a good quality flux for SS and use silver solder. Solder it using a soldering iron. You might that way be able to get it to work. The main issue will be that the bond will only be a top coating from one to the other and will have little if any bond between the divider flat bottom and the mating pan surface. Unfortunately that would have been much easier when everything was new.

[jimmyd]

Yes the bottom of the divider has a 90 degree bend. I can remove the dividers and clean first. Never though about using Silver Solder. Might try that. The other thing I was thinking about was adding some angle at 2' intervals across the width to help keep the pan flat.

[n8hutch]

How deep is the sap in the Pan? When it Buckles? Why kind of space do you have under the pan past the Firefox area? I know a guy that had a 3x8 flat pan it was open with no deviders and that never buckeld from the weight of sap on it. I'm not sure about hooking something to the underside to stiffen it up, that could work. Hard to say.

[jimmyd]

I try and keep the level at about 2 inches or so. The pan is 8" deep. I don't think it's the weight that causes it I think it's the heat. I attached a couple pictures. as you can see there is no support across the width.1831918320

[n8hutch]

Wow very Nice looking Homemade Rig, If you solder or weld in the dividers that will certainly stiffen up your pan . I would also consider building some type of wall in about 2-2.5ft from the front or door of your Firefox. Make the wall so it is roughly 1inch from the bottom of the pan. And Continue back to within 3 inches or so of the back of your pan then let the flue gases drop down and out to your stack. Before I got my R.O. I always ran my pan at 1" and that will also make it boil easier, just keep an eye on the foam.

Good luck, again very Nice build.

[jimmyd]

So you think the angle from the back of the firebox to the chimney is way too deep?

[n8hutch]

Yeah you want to force the heat up into the pan. You want like a 1" gap, what you have tgere would be great for a drop flue.

[jimmyd]

Sounds Like a major rework. probably a project for before next year. Thanks for your help.

[maple flats]

It will be more efficient if you build a steeper slope at about 32-36" from the door and climb at about 35 degrees to leave an area roughly equal to the open area in sq. inches of your stack. That should be with insulation typically vermiculite filling the space, capped with fire half thick bricks. Buy the vermiculite from a commercial greenhouse supply in huge bags or the price will eat up loads of cash. At a greenhouse supply you will pay about 14-16% of what it would cost at a garden center in a big box store. As stated above, build a wall about 3" before the base stack and drop down about 8" for the "smoke" to get out easier. I put "smoke" in quotations because a proper fire in an evaporator will have a clear exhaust out the stack once going good.

[jimmyd]

So now I'm a little confused by what you are trying to say? I will try and draw a sketch in the morning showing what I think you are explaining. Hope you will have a few minutes to review.

[jimmyd]

Mr. Maple Flats,
Take a look at the sketch and let me know if I understand what you explained.18333

[n8hutch]

Something like this.

[maple flats]

n8hutch has it right.

[jimmyd]

Thanks Guys for all your help! I have to tell you though that Vermiculite thing scares me a little. I was researching it last night and it stated that it expands under extreme heat?

[mol1jb]

Another alternative is Roxul insulation bats. They are fairly easy to cut and shape as needed. I believe they are rated for 2100*. Sold at home depot.