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hfmanifold
03-15-2018, 09:48 AM
Hello-

I have a 24" X 18" Syrup pan and a 24" X 30" flat pan connected with copper pipe and ball valves. I put 2 dividers in each pan with cutouts opposite each other to try to run continuous flow. We solder the dividers in and they are definitely not water tight. I have a float box and keep the level about 1 3/4". I have ran 200 gallons through it between 1.5 - 2.5% sugar. Each night when i shut down i close the ball valve between pans. i am running about 10 gph

My problem there has been no gradient develop. The syrup pan looks the same color and show the same temperature across the entire thing and the back pan is the the same only a lighter color and slightly less temperature. The syrup is very dark even running clear clean sap. I assume it is getting dark because how long it has been over heat.

The other day the level dropped to 1 inch (I was distracted and didn't realize my head tank emptied) and when i added my sap to head tank i noticed the fresh sap was mixing across the back of the pan and making its way under the dividers instead of pushing the first channel to the second. I drained the pans and i have a couple spots where there is 1/4 inch gap between dividers and bottom of pan.

My thought is that those gaps are completely messing up my gradient and are basically making my pans batch pans instead of continuous flow. does that sound right?

Thank for the help and any advice is greatly appreciated.

Haynes Forest Products
03-15-2018, 11:19 AM
Yes that sounds like your problem and the gaps could get even bigger when the pan is under full boil. I think its back to the fab shop to get them tighter. It sucks when a plan doesn't come together. I would consider not allowing to muck niter to build up because it makes a mess when you try and re solder them.

hfmanifold
03-15-2018, 11:23 AM
Yes that sounds like your problem and the gaps could get even bigger when the pan is under full boil. I think its back to the fab shop to get them tighter. It sucks when a plan doesn't come together. I would consider not allowing to muck niter to build up because it makes a mess when you try and re solder them.

I was afraid of that. I was hoping i was missing something else. After the season i am going to clean them up the best i can and take them to a local welder and get him to full seam tig weld them in

Thanks for the reply

maple flats
03-15-2018, 06:32 PM
It will need to be completely clean for a weld to come out good.

RileySugarbush
03-15-2018, 09:20 PM
You should fix the gaps of course, but also will have less mixing if you keep the level a little shallower

Haynes Forest Products
03-15-2018, 10:07 PM
Trying to Tig weld over any surface that had solder on it will be an exciting experience. I don't know if you have a 90 degree flange that you bent into the divider or just a raw edge to the flat bottom. If you could bend down the flange and solder might be you best chance.

maple flats
03-16-2018, 08:20 AM
You might even want to make up some little pieces shaped in an angle to fit tight, then solder those in place using lead free solder, a silver bearing solder will be best and do it with a respirator and good ventilation, the fumes from the flux are bad news. Soldering will go best if you use soldering irons and not a torch. Clean the irons well first. Then Ruby's Stainless Steel flux works good. This site helped me: Solder Stainless Steel - Global Welding Solutions Here
www.muggyweld.com/steel

hfmanifold
03-16-2018, 08:41 AM
Trying to Tig weld over any surface that had solder on it will be an exciting experience. I don't know if you have a 90 degree flange that you bent into the divider or just a raw edge to the flat bottom. If you could bend down the flange and solder might be you best chance.

Yea i have 90 degree bend on all 4 sides. I might try resoldering first.

hfmanifold
03-16-2018, 08:42 AM
You might even want to make up some little pieces shaped in an angle to fit tight, then solder those in place using lead free solder, a silver bearing solder will be best and do it with a respirator and good ventilation, the fumes from the flux are bad news. Soldering will go best if you use soldering irons and not a torch. Clean the irons well first. Then Ruby's Stainless Steel flux works good. This site helped me: Solder Stainless Steel - Global Welding Solutions Here
www.muggyweld.com/steel

Thanks i will give that a shot. Should have just got them welded at the beginning of the season and i wouldn't be having this issues haha