Finishing and Filtering Big_Eddy Style.

[Big_Eddy]

Here's a quick pictorial explaining my process for finishing and filtering.

We tap 100-200 trees and make 100-150l of syrup each season. We boil on a 20"x64" evaporator, and average 12-16GPH. We tend to boil 100 - 150 gallons at a time, which results in ~15l of syrup for the day.

We like to take our syrup off the evaporator a little thick (68+ Brix) and draw off into a stainless pail. We do not filter during drawoff. At the end of each day, we pour the drawoff pail into a 20l stainless pot, leaving behind any sludge that has settled out.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180313/35a3b7557094840d72c981cde08d6a9e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180313/5c9f05b341510cf1a3bc161cadccf03c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180313/565410837f2e363f2706e55db0526fd1.jpg

[Big_Eddy]

To finish and filter, we use a propane burner. The syrup is heated until it's close to a boil, then adjusted for final density. To adjust, I add 1 cup of sap at a time, stirring and retesting until the density is exactly at my preffered target of 66.8 Brix as indicated on the hydrotherm.

For those not familiar with the hydrotherm, it is essentially a temperature compensated hydrometer. It is a hydrometer built with an internal thermometer. As the syrup temperature rises, so does the "mercury" within the hydrotherm. Hotter syrup is thinner, so the hydrotherm floats lower in the syrup. The hydrotherm is calibrated so that at 65.8 Brix, the hydrotherm floats exactly level with the top of the "mercury". Each graduation is 0.2 Brix. For minimum legal syrup density in Ontario (66 Brix), the top of the mercury must be at least 1 graduation above the top of the syrup. At my preferred 66.8 Brix, 5 lines of red are visible.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180313/001132e0316808de2d107989b0b23f68.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180313/3c60c6c3c629f9c24cd33df3df41f43a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180313/6e4a3297eff631f40ccb351ab5a4a0bc.jpg

[Big_Eddy]

Once the batch has been adjusted to final density, I prepare for filtering.

I use orlon cone filters, lined with 4-6 pre-filters. The secret to filtering with a cone filter is to start with a hot steamy filter and keep the heat in. Our filter canner was a present from my wife many years ago, and is one of the best maple investments we ever made. It suspends the filters securely, keeps the heat in, and simplifies filling bottles. I highly recommend anyone with more than 50 taps look into something that accomplishes the same things. The key is to keep the heat in. Even if you are suspending your cone over a pail, put a lid or a thick towel over it. As soon as the outside of the filter cools, syrup flow will slow.

To preheat the filters, I invert them over my kettle and run it for several minutes until the whole filter is hot and moist. Then place it in the canner and insert the pr-filters. I bring the pot of syrup up to a full rolling boil, then shut off the burner. I pour the whole pot into the cone filter (as fast as it will go in) and replace the cover.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180313/249b6211867fbcbfcca2ea4bab501960.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180313/aab562e6144d47583e92b25b0aa29c6b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180313/92cea49b08230b9c91767dee81d24cfa.jpg

[Big_Eddy]

I bottle in our kitchen, and pre-heat my bottles in the oven set at 180F. At 180F, the bottles are hot to the touch, but not hot enough to boil the syrup when it hits the glass. For larger bottles (>500ml) preheating is probably not necessary, but I've been doing it this way for years and have never had mouldy syrup following this process.
Bottles are tilted when filled so syrup runs down the glass and does not splash creating bubbles. After the first few bottles are filled, I fill a small "batch" bottle and our grading cuvette, then fill the remainder of the bottles. Bottles are capped and laid on their side.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180313/8fc3226491a9609b8670302125fbe5b1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180313/69756608628235ef79f860569944696a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180313/106b45b8099ce84df9db6729254ffc86.jpg

[Big_Eddy]

When the syrup flow stops, I use a pair of tongs to remove the inner pre-filter, dumping the contents into the next. And repeat again later. The pre-filters are rinsed with hot water then used again for the next batch.

Typically I can bottle 2 batches using the same orlon filter. Filters are rinsed out manually over and over with hot water until the water runs clear. Never twist or wring them out.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180313/26681cfdedb2750cebc4cdd44d4f5cb4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180313/712f4a15642fb1275f944b5dea012a2e.jpg

[Big_Eddy]

Grading is done with the Hanna grader. The grader is temperature sensitive, so we grade after all the bottles are filled and the sample has cooled to romm temperature. We date code every bottle and record the batch quantities and grade in our logbook. The syrup is boxed up with the date code and grade written on the outside of each box.

Samples sit on the window sill until the season is done.
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[fisheatingbagel]

Very interesting, and informative Big Eddy - thanks for that. I agree with letting syrup sit for a while to let niter and and sludge settle to the bottom. I think that really is key to filtering with a cone or flat filter.

[Matt H]

Another great tutorial...thank you! My wife and I were just talking last night about upgrading our filtering process. How much does filter volume affect the filter's flow rate? Also, what micron filter are your prefilters?

[Big_Eddy]

Another great tutorial...thank you! My wife and I were just talking last night about upgrading our filtering process. How much does filter volume affect the filter's flow rate? Also, what micron filter are your prefilters?

I have 2 sizes of Orlon filters. Not sure but might be 5 and 8 quart. I have not noticed a difference in filtering rates but once I close the lid I don't stop filling bottles until the canner is empty. Rarely does it take longer to filter than it takes to bottle, and when it does pulling out the innermost prefilter speeds things up again.

The prefilters are the ones available at any maple supplier. They are pretty coarse and only filter out the larger stuff and sludge. Mine are many batches old so even less fine. The prefilter is there to keep the sludge out of the Orlon so it can do its job removing the fine sediment and nitre. Without prefilters you'd be lucky to get 1/2 gallon through an Orlon before it plugs up.

[Matt H]

I have 2 sizes of Orlon filters. Not sure but might be 5 and 8 quart. I have not noticed a difference in filtering rates but once I close the lid I don't stop filling bottles until the canner is empty. Rarely does it take longer to filter than it takes to bottle, and when it does pulling out the innermost prefilter speeds things up again.

Great...sounds like we can go with either size filter. The whole process sounds way faster than our current cool for 24 hours, decant, heat up, finish syrup, filter through cheese cloth, and bottle.

Have you tried DE with the setup or is that reserved for pressure filtering only?