Muriatic acid ratio to clean pans

[blaircountysugarin85]

Hi I'm looking for the right ratio of muriatic acid to water ratio to clean my pan. I have tried fermenting sap and using vinegar which works "OK" but I used a dilution of muriatic acid a few years ago and that stuff was amazing I just can't remember what the ratio to water was. My pan is stainless Tig welded and after using the acid I dumped a bunch of baking soda in to neutralize the acid and rinsed it out really well. My pan is a 2x3 divided and I plan on putting about 15 gallons or so of diluted acid in.

[ecolbeck]

It's my understanding (based on wisdom garnered from these forums) that muratic acid is not the best choice for stainless. Someone chime in please if I'm wrong. Phosphoric acid is the better option. And from what I gather, it's readily available as a cleaner for dairy operations.

[blaircountysugarin85]

The only reason I used muriatic acid is I came across a pan cleaning guide from Bascom's or one of those big outfits and it worked great but like I said I cant seem to find the paper I printed off a few years ago but yes I would be open to trying something else also. I was not overly impressed with vinegar , while it cleaned ok it did nothing for the scale deposits....

[blaircountysugarin85]

It was a very diluted ratio I want to say 50:1 or 100:1 but I can't remember

[maple marc]

In my experience, I would recommend against using muriatic acid. Several years ago I was desperate to find a way to clean the thick deposits off my pans. Nothing was working. So I tried muriatic acid. It seemed to work on the small deposits, but............in some spots it actually etched the stainless steel. That acid is really hard on stainless. Ask Dr. Tim.

I finally settled on using standard pan acid (phosphoric) and a moderately aggressive scouring pad. Once you take the skin off the deposit, the acid seems to work better. My pans no longer have that mirror finish, but at least I got them clean.

[Robert K]

When using Vinegar, I have found a noticeable difference by heating it just to the point we’re it steams a bit. Then let sit overnight. I agree heavy niter or worse a burn spot will require scrubbing. :cry:

[markcasper]

It seemed to work on the small deposits, but............in some spots it actually etched the stainless steel. That acid is really hard on stainless. Ask Dr. Tim.



Yes it will etch the stainless. Do you want it off or not? I just used some on Sunday for a stainless tank I bought that had HEAVY rust and iron deposits from hard water. Milk stone remover was not cutting it after 2 hours.
Poured some in a spray bottle and did small patches at 100% rate with a stainless scouring pad. Need to be careful b/c of the fumes. A few times I overdid it and had to stick my head out of the tank, dangerous if you don't know what your doing. But it got it off. Yeh, their is some mild white streaks and discoloration, but don't want the sap dissolving that iron and then plugginf the membrane on RO. Who is going to see it anyway other than me?

I used to use it on my pans but stopped, other less aggressive means to get them clean, but you need time as well. If time is of the essence, then you might have to break it out.

I might also add, I have never used a scouring pad on my new pans. To me, the sand paper scratch look on them looks worse than muratic acid white streaks. I just use an old t shirt, milkstone acid and baking soda. A scouring pad scratches the stainless to the point where it will attract even more niter buildup.
I

[blaircountysugarin85]

Will the home depot phosphoric acid cut it? They sell it in 32 oz bottles. Do you have to dilute it and if so by how much? I would buy regular maple pan cleaner but the nearest supplier is pushing 2 hours away from me.

[markcasper]

Will the home depot phosphoric acid cut it? They sell it in 32 oz bottles. Do you have to dilute it and if so by how much? I would buy regular maple pan cleaner but the nearest supplier is pushing 2 hours away from me.

my milkstone remover says 56.3% active ingredient (75% solution), the rest is water, dye, etc......I spray it on full strength, scrub with tshirt, the baking soda on that, scrub some more. For soaking, probably a gallon in a 4x4 front pan, let soak, if its not working, i put in another gallon. you could check what the ingredient % is for the home depot stuff, but probably not as strong.
i did old sap soak last summer, worked wonderful except a few tough spots.