View Full Version : Mainline drilling. no tool. Help Please
Mikemartin274
02-18-2018, 05:19 PM
Got fifty on tubing many failures bought many new tool. No money left . 50 taps need connecting to mainline 20 holes and no tool. Please give me ideas by morning I hate to screw up this late in the game. Could possibly make something but no money to buy anything just general steel pieces around.
unc23win
02-18-2018, 06:08 PM
If your talking about drilling holes in mainline for saddle just take the right size bit and put a bunch of electrical tape around it for a depth stop all you have to do is get through the top. Just hold your line and drill as steady as you can and drill easy. I did it that way before I got a tool. Some saddles are 5/16 some are 3/8 and some are 31/64 get the right bit.
Sugarbush Ridge
02-18-2018, 06:13 PM
For the cheap for 'right now' a real good sharp bit the size required for you type, style saddles. Slip a piece of tubing over drill bit for a stop so you only go thru one side. Drill slow, straight with steady pressure. That will get you thru this year.
Mikemartin274
02-18-2018, 06:52 PM
I'm fairly confident I can just drill it. Everyone has told me I'll slip and elongate it and screw the pipe all up. Everyone just has me nervous I've put so much time in and all that's left is the saddles and maybe some more taps. Thank you for the replies it's a confidence booster. Should I drill a small pilot hole?
Put mainline up first then realized it didn't have enough slope went to adjust and strainer broke. Then another and another. Bought come along then cable broke several times. Finally got it after getting it up and failing 8 times. I'm almost there just have to drill these holes. I've learned alot this weekend it's been great.
I also have use a twist bit in a cordless drill. No pilot hole.
mountainvan
02-18-2018, 07:31 PM
All I use is a cordless drill and the right size Brad point bit. Slow and steady.
maple flats
02-18-2018, 07:50 PM
I now use a DSD stubby bit which is short enough that it does not damage the opposite side. Before that I made a jig out of a piece of 2x4. I made an inverted V one the bottom the right distance in from the edge, so that when I drilled into the center towards the v notch with the mainline in the notch, it only went thru enough to make the hole without being able to reach far enough to hit the far side. I used that method for about 4-5 seasons. The jig only took about 5 minutes to make. After I made it, I then reduced the bulk by cutting away extra wood to make it easier to carry. I never tried the piece of tubing on the drill bit method. I liked the jig because it was very quick to use and it never left a bad hole.
Before next season, I suggest you buy a DSD stubby bit, then no jig or tubing sleeve is needed.
blissville maples
02-18-2018, 09:42 PM
Drill it with a regular bit. No need for taping bit you wont be punching thru bottom unless youve had a six pack too many!! be steady and you'll be ok. it takes alot of movement at drill to oblong the bit as the bit is the central point, I use a slightly smaller bit and it may take me a couple reams to get saddle into hole but it's usually tight and leak free..I've done over 200 of them without tool and my bush runs 26-28".. use two wire ties per side to tighen them to mainline. You can spend a lot of money on these tools and they are nice but not necessary I have put out over 20,000 ft of Main Line and at least a hundred to 200 rolls of lateral lines without special tools the only thing I own is the 5/16 hand tool, both of them....
Haynes Forest Products
02-18-2018, 10:50 PM
I started out not having a drill stop on my mainline drill. I didn't drill thru the bottom of the mainline BUT I noticed I was pulling the drill out of the hole to quick allowing the suction in the mainline to pull the shavings back into the hole. With the tubing scrap as a drill stop I can relax and slide the saddle over the hole with a good fit and use my saddle clam pliers I made and then Twisty tie it. Installing under vacuum I can make sure its right. I use a tapping bit for my saddles its short and sharp.
Asa Matras
02-19-2018, 07:42 AM
We use a cordless drill with the right size bit. I put a coller with set screw on the bit so it wouldnt go through the other side. Just straight and steady and you wont have problems. We're on vac and they dont leak. Good luck
I bought a cheap mainline hole punch from Leader when I first started. Cost like $10.its blue and works great
I bought a cheap mainline hole punch from Leader when I first started. Cost like $10.its blue and works great
I remember those from about 25 years ago. You can’t buy one that cheap now.
maple flats
02-19-2018, 05:06 PM
I had one of those, but didn't like it. That's when I went with my homemade jig.
I looked up the DSD maimline drill bit today, they are $20.95, seems expensive but they are worth every penny.
No, I do not have an interest in DSD, I just like 2 of the item they offer, that bit and their saddles made using a SS band clamp.
Mikemartin274
02-20-2018, 11:02 AM
So I took everyone's advice. Spent the money on a new bit put it in the DeWalt wrapped gorilla tape around it and went to town. Got them all drilled without screwing up to bad. It was hard to get the saddles into a couple but they all turned out nice. I have 60 taps complete flowing gravity on flat land. It actually works. I was skeptical I've never seen anyone's setup before. Without this site and Mack Maple idk how it would of turned out. Thank you all for fast response. I really like the jig idea but can't picture it.
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