Basic Tubing Questions

[thebbqman]

I'm getting ready to put together my tubing set up for another year. I have a couple of questions. Running 5/16 tubing, what is the reasonable limit of the number of taps or the length of tubing for each run to the main line? Why does it matter? All of the runs are gravity-fed.
Would it help or hurt slow if I left an open line at the top of a run?
Thanks for the advice.
Jay

[Scm]

..........

[maple flats]

Not a good idea. As said, strive for five and maximum length of 100', and never more than ten.
If you want longer or more taps on a lateral, use 3/16. The difference, is that the sap will not pass the gases (looks like air) in the line. The 3/16 will then give you gravity powered vacuum. You do need slope however for the 3/16 to be advised. Ideal drop is 30' but less still works, just will not generate as much vacuum. On 3/16 with the slope (drop) you can run well over 1000', but you should try to keep the number of taps at 20-25, but 37 is considered by many to be the max (I have 1 run at about 1250' and 42 taps). The problem with more taps even if you have the 30' in elevation drop is that if the line gets a leak, you lose the whole run until located and fixed, especially if the leak is up near or at the highest tap on the line.
Even with 3/16 laterals, the drops are better with a 5/16 drop line and tap, because as the sap stops flowing the vacuum in the tree is less able to pull sap back up nin the 5/16. In 5/16 the sap passes the air, thus as the tree pulls back as the internal vacuum sucks back in, it just gets air. If the drop (the line from the tap to the lateral) are 3/16, the now contaminated sap gets pulled back up the drop and this triggers the tree to start shutting down that leak. It's the micro organisms pulled back in that start the healing process. On a heathy tree the sap is sterile, once out of the tree it gets laden with micro-bacteria.
For the feet in drop on 3/16, it makes no difference what the rate of drop is as long as the total fall in elevation is there. If you do not have at least 12-15' total drop it may not be the answer you need.

[wlatrout]

I'm dealing with the same situation. I picked up a new woods this year that is basically flat. It does have some slope because the water runs from so. to no. There 30 trees in one area I was hopeing to tap this year.It would be 300 '. To get them on one run what size main line. I will be using a shurflo.ok

[Atgreene]

3/4" is really the minimum mainline size. I've used 1/2", but it's only rated for 50 taps at best. Keep your entire system tight, both air tight and lines stretched tight, and sloped down hill. I try to keep mine at 3%, but that isn't always possible.

[Haynes Forest Products]

The tap is point A and the pump is point B so tap a little high and put the pump on the ground. That is the fastest way from point A to B. That pump will get it into you tank.

When I took over the woods I tap today I thought what a modern set up. Man 1/2" mainlines 250 taps on it with runs of 30-40 taps per 5/16 back and fourth all on gravity. The term "DIDN'T KNOW BETTER" was the name of the game. Now I will admit that I like my books to have a lot of pictures in them and I never used my computer to read thru endless pages of stats and pier reviewed articles. Then I found Maple Trader and started learning and as I made slow changes the sap count went up and I had More fun.

[wlatrout]

I two have made many mistakes since I started with tubing. Maple trader is my maple bible. One has to sort through all the post to see what applies to your situation. Pictures are good.

[thebbqman]

Thanks for all the advice. Sounds like five Taps for each branch line is ideal. 10 is probably okay. Thank you so much. I am heading out to the bush now to do some cutting and splicing.

[Mark B]

I have gotten great advice from contributing members of mapletrader. It's saved me the headache of having to make a ton of mistakes first.

The first thing about the woods I inherited was they were already set up with 5/16 line. I had already begun rearranging the lines, so that the laterals would work with a new main line when I decided to go that route. I had intended only to run gravity and buckets this year but was given so many gifts at Christmas that I was able to afford to buy a small Shurflo pump to set half of my Woods on vacuum.

I think probably the wisest thing I did was to take and buy a cheap sight level and then walk my entire Woods and every 20 ft or so, use trail marking tape, to set a level line all the way through my woods by tying trail tape around trees. While I did this, I also basically figured out where my main line would run.

After level was set through my woods, I then evaluated how to get the best grade for my main line and where the lowest spot was to set my pump. It turned out that in my Sugar Bush my lowest point was roughly halfway through a 500-foot run. So I divided my main line into two runs and ran from both ends of my wood to the lowest point.

In the middle at the lowest point I knew I was going to be about 3 ft below my line of level. The shorter run is just about 225 ft and I was able to start the main line about 2 ft above my level line so that gave me 5 ft of decline over 225 ft. The other run is about 250 ft and I was able to start it about 5 feet above my level line giving me about 8 feet of decline 250 ft.

I'll be out this week finishing the fittings on the 3/4 mainline and attaching saddles and finishing plumbing the Shurflo pump to the line using banjo fittings.

[wlatrout]

I hate to beat a dead horse but at 74 I find I need a little more explaining to clear things up.I setting in 80 degree weather thinking about heading back home and getting ready to tap.Have spent the day reading post after post to try to get a handle on how to set my lines on a new woods.As I mentioned earlier it fairly flat. I have 1/2 and 5/16 tubing available and 30 taps to put in and 300' to the collection point. My question is can I run 4or5 5/16 lateral for 80 to 100 ft. Then into a 1/2" main for the last 2 00 ft? I can probably get a 1% slope then into a shuffle pump.

[Mark B]

There are others here more knowledgeable than me but I would think with only 1% slope that you would really have to be careful of any sags because it just wouldn't run. I think I would also try to get my Mainline closer to the heads of my laterals to shorten the laterals up if at all possible.

[wlatrout]

Thanks, These 30 trees are somewhat clustered so I should be able to shorten the laterals. I may be able to get more slope also.

[wlatrout]

If running a 1/2" mainline how do you the 5 /16 into it? This is a quick fix to pick up 30 trees this year. Next year I'll run mainline through the woods to pickup another 100 taps.

[Mark B]

I know that leader makes a line insert called a Christmas tree by everyone around here, that has four 5/16 ports on them. You cut your line, insert the fitting, and clamp them in the line with hose clamps. They come in 1/2".

[Atgreene]

https://www.bascommaple.com/item/mtl05/mainline_fittings/

[Atgreene]

Or. https://www.bascommaple.com/item/mtp4/mainline_fittings/

With this, which you can buy at any hardware store. https://www.bascommaple.com/item/mt05/mainline_fittings/

[maple flats]

Another good choice is DSD saddles, they are available in 1/2". For next year, use at least 3/4" mainlines, not only more capacity but far more saddle and other fitting options.
While I still have a few mains in 3/4" everything I've added in the last 8-9 years has been 1", for better vacuum transfer. If you have good slope, use 3/16 laterals rather than 5/16 for some gravity vacuum. Even 10' of drop will give you some more sap than 5/16. An added benefit is that gravity works for free 24/7 all season.

[wlatrout]

Thanks for the quick response. Just back from Arizona and 80 degree weather to 6 degrees and 16-18" of snow. Going to hang mainline t
tomarrow.

[wlatrout]

Thanks Dave. I have used many of your tips in this learning process. Next I need to figure out how to post my history.