Making drops

[peteinvermont]

This weekend I headed into an area we have about 400 taps, all on good slope. Last year I just started converting to 3/16" on it, but only got as far as about 80 of the taps. The wind destroyed a bunch of my 5/16" and lots of it left standing is ready to be rebuilt anyway.

So Friday night I'm going to sit down with a tasty beverage and start making some drops to use Saturday morning. I've read this board inside out, and still can't wrap my head around something....

What is the optimal setup on a 3/16 lateral run, regarding taps and drops?

5/16 drops, with no CV?
3/16 drops WITH CV?
A combination?

I started using 3/16 2 years ago, with 3/16 drops, and no CV. I was blown away to see my vacuum gauge pegged. It actually worked. However, year 2 showed me a pretty solid drop in production on that same line. Yes, I used the same taps, same drops, and didn't change a thing. I guess I had a hard time acknowledging how big of a difference new equipment can make.

So as I plop down at the table Friday night, what should I be building for drops? Is there an optimal setup, or is this something still being decided?

[GeneralStark]

Hey Pete. My preference is to use 3/16 x 5/16 T's (5/16 for drop line) as this provides more flexibility with what spout you can use. I hear that more spouts are being made available for 3/16, including CVs, but I'm not certain of that. I use a smart spout when the drop is new and a CV2 the second season. I have not been using drops for more than 2 seasons with 3/16 as the risk of them plugging seems pretty high, even with rinsing the tubing at the end of season.

I'm not sure there is an optimal set up as new fittings and spouts for 3/16 seem to be popping up every year.

[peteinvermont]

So you like the 5/16" drops on a 3/16 lateral, mainly for the availability of tap selection?
Then in year 2, you use the same drops, but change to a CV tap to try and keep the tap running longer?

Whats a smart spout? I'm not a newbie, but I can't remember all the names of these things.

I did pick up some 3/16" CV's, so I know those are available. Those are what I planned on using, but I keep reading about how effective 5/16 drops are, for fighting infection from backflow.

[Cody]

We use 5/16 drops,new taps every year.The first year we averaged 24 gals of sap per tap,second year we averaged 22 gals per tap.The first year we collected sap for 30 days of the season,second year 23 days.

[peteinvermont]

We use 5/16 drops,new taps every year.The first year we averaged 24 gals of sap per tap,second year we averaged 22 gals per tap.The first year we collected sap for 30 days of the season,second year 23 days.

Solid data Cody. I'm a data nerd myself, and seeing non-anecdotal notes is awesome.

What taps did you put on your 5/15 drops?

[Cody]

H2o seasonal clear spout

[BlueberryHill]

From what I have read here, it seems like the way to go is to use 5/16 drops. They are less likely to allow sap to back up into the tap hole. Also, check valves are important, especially if the tubing is not in it's first year. Leader has CV2's that have a 3/16 barb now. I just put some on some trees I tapped that had 1 year old 3/16 drops. I did not want to change out the drops since they were only 1 year old. But next year, everything is gonna be converted to 5/16 drops and CV2's.

[peteinvermont]

So maybe the way to go is with 5/16 drops and regular taps for the virgin year, then snip them off and go with CV on year 2?

Bottom line being - you like the 5/16 drop lines better right?

[BlueberryHill]

Yeah, exactly. I wold recommend just going with 5/16 drops from the start. There are T's available that have (2)3/16 barbs and then a 5/16 barb for the drop. Nice any easy.

When I started with 3/16 there were very limited fittings, so I had 5/16 drops (not knowing that was better anyway). Then, once 3/16 taps came into play I started going with 3/16 drops (no need for a 5/16 to 3/16 straight connector, the only option at the time). So my woods are currently a mess of many different styles of drops. But by next season I will have it all converted over to 5/16 drops. From the info that I have just recently read up on, it's the way to go. It'll also simplify what I need to keep at the ready for fittings & spouts.

[peteinvermont]

Yeah, exactly. I wold recommend just going with 5/16 drops from the start. There are T's available that have (2)3/16 barbs and then a 5/16 barb for the drop. Nice any easy.

When I started with 3/16 there were very limited fittings, so I had 5/16 drops (not knowing that was better anyway). Then, once 3/16 taps came into play I started going with 3/16 drops (no need for a 5/16 to 3/16 straight connector, the only option at the time). So my woods are currently a mess of many different styles of drops. But by next season I will have it all converted over to 5/16 drops. From the info that I have just recently read up on, it's the way to go. It'll also simplify what I need to keep at the ready for fittings & spouts.

Will you use the spout extenders, or go directly into the tree?
Since you're going to change your taps every year, you won't use CV's right? The benefits of the 5/16 drop negate the need for CV's, especially when you change every year?

CV's shouldn't be used multiple years anyway, right?

[DrTimPerkins]

Since you're going to change your taps every year, you won't use CV's right?

CVs are made to be changed every year. They provide an additional benefit beyond simple spout replacement.


The benefits of the 5/16 drop negate the need for CV's, especially when you change every year?

No. Using a 5/16" drop doesn't mean you don't need CVs. Using a 5/16" drop will reduce backflow to some extent, but not eliminate it entirely. Changing spouts every year, regardless of the type of spout, is recommended. If you are going to change drops every 2-4 yrs (depending on other factors such as yield and cost of materials and labor), then you can keep your yields reasonably high (but not as high as using CVs). If you don't want to change drops as often, you can just use CVs. For the first year on new drops, you can get away with a regular spout.


CV's shouldn't be used multiple years anyway, right?

Correct. They (like any seasonal spout) are designed for one-season use.

[peteinvermont]

CVs are made to be changed every year. They provide an additional benefit beyond simple spout replacement.



No. Using a 5/16" drop doesn't mean you don't need CVs. Using a 5/16" drop will reduce backflow to some extent, but not eliminate it entirely. Changing spouts every year, regardless of the type of spout, is recommended. If you are going to change drops every 2-4 yrs (depending on other factors such as yield and cost of materials and labor), then you can keep your yields reasonably high (but not as high as using CVs). If you don't want to change drops as often, you can just use CVs. For the first year on new drops, you can get away with a regular spout.



Correct. They (like any seasonal spout) are designed for one-season use.


ahh, Ok, this is starting to come together now. There are so many options, its hard to figure out the optimal one.

It sounds like this....

year 1 on a new 3/16 lateral:
- use 5/16 drops with standard (cheaper than cv) spouts

year 2 on same 3/16 lateral:
- use same 5/16 drop, but snip off the standard spout and put on cv

year 3 and 4 with same 3/16 lateral:
- new CV every year
- install new drop lines in year 3 or 4

Year 4 or 5....start brand new.