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Woodsrover
12-31-2017, 02:49 PM
So I had a heck of a time a few mornings last year getting sap out of my totes and tanks when it was cold and the sap was frozen in the valves. One of my tanks had a stainless neck on the bottom (Not using this tank this year) that I could heat up with a torch. This year I'm running 2 or 3 IBC totes that I will attach a WX10 to and pump up to the shack. Using 2" cam-lock fitting on everything.

I'm wondering how you handle frozen valves on these tanks. Don't really want to hit them with a propane torch but I guess if you go slowly it would be okay. I could bring a bucket of hot water down to them?

I can't be the only guy dealing with frozen valves....Just wondering what everyone else is doing.

Thanks!

BSD
12-31-2017, 03:06 PM
i ran IBC totes last season and i don't remember them freezing up on me last year.

i don't think i'd take a propane torch to them, maybe a heat-gun to have a wider heat dispersion?

NY Maple
12-31-2017, 03:20 PM
If you are using ball valves, we noticed that after drilling a hole in the ball, we had a lot less trouble with things freezing. The drilled hole allowed the valve to drain while holding the rest of the sap in.

SeanD
12-31-2017, 05:09 PM
If you are using ball valves, we noticed that after drilling a hole in the ball, we had a lot less trouble with things freezing. The drilled hole allowed the valve to drain while holding the rest of the sap in.

That's an interesting idea.

When the tanks are empty, I leave them part way open. During the season, the collection tank and the permeate tank have a 3' heat tape that's wrapped around them. It has a built in thermostat to turn on at like 38 deg.

http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=30411686&KPID=985745&cid=CAPLA:G:Shopping_-_Heat_Cable/Guns&pla=pla_985745&k_clickid=6ec16c05-8cc1-407e-9073-6229ef56c4a4&gclid=Cj0KCQiAsqLSBRCmARIsAL4Pa9RaeMH0gwVIpoqK3nCM wLvE5HMgTTRWwIrj_LosiF2g9fwRLYflbawaAhoCEALw_wcB

Sean

psparr
12-31-2017, 05:27 PM
Another trick I’ve heard is to have two valves. You close off the inner valve and allow the second one to drain. Then close the outer valve and open up the inner one. This keeps sap from getting around the outer valve “ball”.

The Bee
12-31-2017, 06:57 PM
I use small light bulb near valve. Works for me.

maple flats
12-31-2017, 06:58 PM
I've never had a tote valve freeze, I only use them to transport. At the woods tank, I pump the sap into the totes thru the bottom valve, then I haul them to the sugarhouse and drain or pump them soon after. My only exception is that I also haul a tote with maybe a hundred gal of permeate to wash woods tanks after pumping them out, if that valve freezes I simply pump out of the top using a suction tube I made up. I wash the tank each time by turning the sap pump around and pumping the permeate into the tank thru a hose that is reduced to 5/16", the pressure is good enough to do a fine job.

Wannabe
12-31-2017, 07:15 PM
I use small light bulb near valve. Works for me.

Yep I used a small heat lamp when its going to get REALLY cold too.

Maplewalnut
12-31-2017, 10:14 PM
Dont over think it. If using a pump, drop inlet side hose in top and suck sap out.

White Crow
01-01-2018, 07:57 AM
I used a heat gun last year on the tote that feeds the evaporator and now the valve does not close tight, I think the light bulb or maybe building a small box with a small electric heater is what I will try this year.

foursapsyrup1
01-01-2018, 08:51 AM
So I had a heck of a time a few mornings last year getting sap out of my totes and tanks when it was cold and the sap was frozen in the valves. One of my tanks had a stainless neck on the bottom (Not using this tank this year) that I could heat up with a torch. This year I'm running 2 or 3 IBC totes that I will attach a WX10 to and pump up to the shack. Using 2" cam-lock fitting on everything.

I'm wondering how you handle frozen valves on these tanks. Don't really want to hit them with a propane torch but I guess if you go slowly it would be okay. I could bring a bucket of hot water down to them?

I can't be the only guy dealing with frozen valves....Just wondering what everyone else is doing.

Thanks!
Rule # 1 - don't let your valves freeze
Rule # 2 - refer to rule # 1

Feed tank valve and feed line froze up once - took forever to get it to release.

Woodsrover
01-01-2018, 06:43 PM
These tanks will be down in the woods away from power so anything I use to thaw them will have to be propane-driven. Walnut has the simplest idea for the few times I do end up with a frozen spout. A couple gallons of hot water will probably do the job too. Time will tell....

TomorrowRiverMapler
01-01-2018, 07:23 PM
I was thinking about making up insulating covers out of 1 inch foam rubber shaped like a can cooler to slip over the valve. I also thought about spraying the valve body with Great Stuff to insulate it as another option which might be easier to do and it may insulate better except for the handle area. Drilling a hole in the downstream side of the ball is also a good idea and will definitely do that.

WhistlePig
01-01-2018, 09:12 PM
We had trouble with frozen tote valves last year, twice, when temps dropped to around 5-6 degrees. When I asked a favorite wise sage how to handle frozen valves during a boiling session in severely cold weather, he said "don't boil when it is severely cold". Anyway, I transport the totes from my sugar bush at one farm to my sap house at another farm using 3 point hitch forks. I pipe them together and feed them to the evaporator one at a time from outside the sap house. Nothing scarier than transitioning between totes and finding the value frozen. I solved the issue by wrapping heat tape tightly around the valve and then covering the whole thing with some reflective silver insulating material that my strawberries come shipped in.

Which brings up another freezing tote question. How do you get rid of the giant block of frozen water in a tote? They last for days and days and reduce the capacity of the tote.

Bucket Head
01-02-2018, 02:14 PM
The same sage also said "don't put liquid in a closed vessel when it is severely cold".

Seriously, without a larger opening cut in the top that you might be able to get broken-up pieces out, you might be stuck with them. Can you 3 point hitch them into a heated building or garage? And then swap empty ones in while those melt?

Wannabe
01-02-2018, 07:46 PM
I loved the pieces of ice later in the season to keep the sap cool. (I understand a BIG solid block of ice would be no good).

Bucket Head
01-02-2018, 08:11 PM
I should have added to my post above that I cut out the small opening/fill port at the top of my cage totes by cutting an approximately 16" square hole in them. I do that for cleaning purposes but I have laid them on their side (with me on my hands and knees) on rare occasions and removed pieces of ice through the enlarged opening.

Some folks cut the small hole out and some prefer to not cut their totes. It is up to you if you want to do that. But as far as I'm concerned that 6" hole is useless.

gmack
01-03-2018, 11:02 AM
I used a heat gun last year on the tote that feeds the evaporator and now the valve does not close tight, I think the light bulb or maybe building a small box with a small electric heater is what I will try this year.

16989

I cut a hole big enough for the pump and hinge it . Makes it easy to clean as well

Bucket Head
01-03-2018, 02:40 PM
Yeah, that works. Nice!

WhistlePig
01-03-2018, 06:08 PM
I like the larger opening idea. I really, really like the idea of a heated building to fork them into. Unfortunately, will probably be a couple more years until I can afford such a wonderful combination (heat+building). I thought about using my sap house, but it is VERY tight, with the evaporator squeezed into an old milk house.

VT_K9
01-03-2018, 11:04 PM
We use gate valves on ours. We replaced one tote ball valve and used a male adapter....tote threads are a little different. I don't recall the web site off the top of my head, but it came up on this site.


We leave the tote's valve open and use just the gate valve.

Mike

buckeye gold
01-04-2018, 07:21 AM
I have hauled a lot of water in freezing weather (for my job before i retired) and we went to gate valves years ago and they worked great. We would lubricate the slides with food grade silicone and they would work in most all weather. I would bet that defoamer would work on sap tank gates, as it solidifies when cold and is pretty slick. If anything froze it was the outside or channels and we'd just splash some warm water over them and they'd work. If they are plastic a little salt sprinkled in the channel and the outside helps, just rinse it before unloading. However, when it gets in the mid teens and single digits nothing works well.

Stiets
01-07-2018, 01:24 PM
I was thinking about this last night.... would a small fish bubbler or air pump at the end of the tank with the valve help to stop it from freezing? Is see people use them around the boat docks during the winter.