Lags vs wrapping end tree for mainlines

[mountain man maple]

I'm getting ready to install some new mainlines. What is the best way to install the mainline wire to end trees so the least amount of damage is done to tree? Are lags capable of holding 1 1/4" and 1 1/2" wet and dry mains?

[sugarman3]

We go around tree with the wire and use old tubing on the wire and also put some small pieces of wood between the wire and tree to help protect the tree,pulling wire tight using wire gripples,then side tie using old tubing and a lighter gauge wire around tree's to make mainline wire tight.

[rhwells2003]

I set up the sameway as sugarman with the gripples, side tie's, and tensioners, but I use lags with insulators at my tree ends. I only have 1" mainline, but I helped a guy probably 6-7 years ago set-up a 5k tap bush. We lagged everything and he had a 1 1/2" wet and dry line. He's had no issues, and he would tighten his tensioners to the point that he could not pull them another click.

[Tweegs]

I use a lag at the low end and loop around at the high end.
My day wouldn’t be complete without some goof-up out in the woods.
The loop on the high end makes it fast and relatively easy to add slope if need be.

[Whitcomb Family Farm]

I use the lags with plastic insulators from leader evaporator

[Bruce L]

Another vote for the lags from Leader Evaporator,some of our maples have been girdled from the wire going around them,even using old tubing

[ToadHill]

I've done both and don't like either method. Yes, the tubing and wire around the tree grows in and putting wood between the wire and the tree is awkward and time consuming. The problem with lags is that they frequently end up splitting the tree. I have drilled a pilot hole and it still splits the tree. If anybody has a better method I'd like to hear it. I also don't like how the side ties grow into the trees. Even when they're encased in tubing. Seems like someone would come up with a solution.

[maple flats]

I used to wrap the end tree and protect it using blocks of wood. After girdling too many trees I now use heavy galvanized drive hooks (like those used by utility companies). After 2-3 years I use a puller to relieve the tension, back the hook 2-3 turns out and reconnect the line. I like this method best. Like these https://www.linemen-tools.com/J_Hook_7_16_x_4_3_4_J3316P_p/h-j3316p-si-3000.htm However I bought a box of 50 for $28 shipping included a few years ago. I think they were thru Amazon or Ebay. I had to buy 50.

[ToadHill]

Flats, Any problem with the tree splitting above and below the anchor? I seemed to do more damage to the tree with these anchors. Are you drilling a pilot hole?

[unc23win]

I like the lags as well I use the same lag to hold my wire and tension grip. I have not had any splitting issues. If I can I avoid putting lags in maples.

[mountain man maple]

Last install I did I used 160 psi water pipe to protect tree. It has been up 3 yrs and is doing ok for not growing into trees so far. I just want to use the method that will cause the least damage to trees. On the two woods I'm tubing this year there will be multiple trees that will have multiple mains terminated to the same tree. If I wrap it it would have tubing pinching tree the whole way around it. To me lags would seem better in this instance for sure.

[BreezyHill]

J hooks/ J bolts have been used since the mid 1970's for high tensile fencing installation. I have installed thousands and have only had one tree split with out using pilot holes. Tree wrapping has been advised against due to tree damaged by the Gallagher school of Fencing.

[GeneralStark]

If your concern is long term tree health, through bolting the tree is likely the best method. This has become the standard for arborists and ropes course installers. Arborists often use stainless through bolts, but for our purposes I suspect galvanized is good. You can either use eye bolts or threaded rod with an eye nut. The advantage is you can easily loosen the nut as a tree grows...the disadvantage is you need to drill a hole through the tree which can be time consuming. I have lots of small hop hornbeams in my woods so I generally use these when I can, or another non-maple species.

[BreezyHill]

Through bolting the tree is likely the best method.

Please explain your logic on this suggestion. The difference between securing sections of trees together to keep a tree from splitting in high winds, and the tension of aerial ropes and cables to support the weight of people are entirely different from suspending sap lines. The damage and the area that will be open to bugs and infection would be enough for most people to steer clear then factor in the need to drill through the diameter of a tree and install a section of threaded stainless rod???

The threaded clevis end for the stainless rod to attach the support wire cost more than a J hook if one is looking at that cost comparison.

J hooks can be turned out ever3-10 years to keep them from being grown around.

[GeneralStark]

I edited my original post to clarify as my point regarding though bolting is that this is likely the best way if your concern is long term tree health. It's another option is all I'm saying...

The tree is not left open as the bolt fills the hole, so I don't get your point regarding bugs and infection. It's the same as using a J hook...

I'm not suggesting that anyone should use stainless, just saying that's what arborists do as longevity of the bolt is key. Galvanized, as I said would be more than adequate.

Strength is certainly a factor as tensioning the wire and hanging pipe on it, especially larger diameter, can add up...

If your installation allows you to twist the wire as you twist the j-hook out every so often, that is a fine option as well.

Once again, only mentioning another option.

[maple flats]

I do use a pilot hole. I drill a hole in the tree about 1" deep and just the size of the little extended point, then I drive it in until about 2 threads still show. When it has grown so no threads show I relieve the tension using a ratchet strap, back out the bolt until I see 2 threads and then I hook back onto the drive bolt hook. Those are made to drive them in but they have threads to back them out. The threads are uniquely shaped to hold well on the tree (or utility pole originally). I've never had any splitting but I always drilled the pilot hole first, never tried without.

[Burnt sap]

This is what we do as well never damaged a tree yet. Plus good use for old tubing we adjust the location of the tubing from year to year so it never damages or grows into tree.

[sapmaple]

I used j hooks several years ago did not back out so they are almost grown over ( so backing out does that twist the wire don't think I like that) Also put one in a nice Maple and it did split ( did drill pilot) created a dead area several feet up and down the tree from the hook So ever since then I use pipe wrap method( need to use maple trees in many cases) I start with 3/4 black pipe and then put a 1/2 inch pipe inside and then the wire through that pipe. Tree does not grow around it but will indent the tree some what so just loosen a couple side ties and take block of wood and hammer move it up or down a little to fresh area of the tree if so desired. on the side ties I use 1/2 inch pipe to protect tree and the 1/2 pipe can easily be adjusted up ad down as needed

[Chris_In_Vermont]

I'm getting ready to install some new mainlines. What is the best way to install the mainline wire to end trees so the least amount of damage is done to tree? Are lags capable of holding 1 1/4" and 1 1/2" wet and dry mains?

Lots of answers on what to use. Another vote for J hooks here. As far as strength, if the pipe is on high tensile wire, we use a J hook anchor. 1-1/2" liquid line sometimes will get 1\4" cable, 2" and bigger always gets 1\4" cable and a bigger lag with a D ring.

1-1/4" and 1-1/2" will likely be fine anchored to a J hook.