Homemade Electric 3-Gallon Finisher

[Cedar Eater]

My homemade electric evaporators have a minimum depth due to the heating element mounted in the bottom. Because they are wide and long to maximize surface area, this means I can't really finish all the way to syrup in them unless I cook down a large enough quantity of syrup. So I boil down until I have very near syrup, do a preliminary filter on it, and then finish in the kitchen on the cookstove. In order to cut down on total workload and mess in the kitchen, I want to be able to store the very near syrup for a while until I'm ready to process up to 3 gallons at a time and then I want to use an electric cooker out on my deck. So I mounted a spa heater element in the bottom of a thin SS 16 quart stockpot to make an electric finisher. These are pictures of the work so far.

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With a couple of wood blocks of the right thickness to support it, I can plug it into the 240 VAC base for the electrified steam table pan and have a 4000W finisher. I plan to build another base for it with a 120VAC plug, cord, and infinite switch (electric cookstove switch) so that I will be able to use it as a 0 - 1000W canner.

[Paperman]

Using an ULWD element may help but I don't know how well syrup/sap will like being in direct contact with the element. Also be sure to cover/protect those hot points, 240V will be a hell of a flash if they ground or if you lay a finger on them. I'm sure its a work in progress and so far it looks like its coming along.

[Cedar Eater]

Using an ULWD element may help but I don't know how well syrup/sap will like being in direct contact with the element. Also be sure to cover/protect those hot points, 240V will be a hell of a flash if they ground or if you lay a finger on them. I'm sure its a work in progress and so far it looks like its coming along.

Thanks. I've been evaporating with these elements. The syrup has been great. When I turn it into a canner, the temp of the element will be much less. There are links in my signature line to the other electrification projects I have done with ULWD elements.

[Paperman]

Good to hear the results are positive. How does the stove controller work? Seems it would surge boil and not be in control. I would think a variac or some other PWM controller would give relief of the surge if it is indeed an issue, if not ignore me and soldier on. Been thinking of a canning pot, double walled, oil filled deal but if this works I may run with it as well.

[wmick]

I would think a variac or some other PWM controller would give relief of the surge if it is indeed an issue, if not ignore me and soldier on. Been thinking of a canning pot, double walled, oil filled deal but if this works I may run with it as well.

For plastic molding and extrusion equipment, we use PID controllers to control die temperatures... They kind of have a brain, that pulses full power on and off at even intervals to maintain a setpoint. (rather than needing to go above and below the setpoint like a regular thermostat)... Pulses could range from 1/10 of a second, to constant on, depending on the demand. And they figure out how to adapt to subtle changes... (EG - if the temp starts to drop slightly, they will pulse longer or more often until it starts heading back.) Unless you introduce some significant environmental or process change, they can maintain a "Very" accurate temperature. Not sure how it would work for a bottling situation? I see Amazon has some pretty inexpensive kits... Need a controller, relay and thermo-couple.

[Cedar Eater]

Good to hear the results are positive. How does the stove controller work? Seems it would surge boil and not be in control. I would think a variac or some other PWM controller would give relief of the surge if it is indeed an issue, if not ignore me and soldier on. Been thinking of a canning pot, double walled, oil filled deal but if this works I may run with it as well.

I haven't needed any temperature controls on the evaporators and I haven't tested the finisher/canner yet to know if it needs anything other than just an infinite switch in canner mode. 240VAC infinite switches operated at 120 VAC are pretty tame.

I intend to try just an on/off switch for finisher mode. I'm a little concerned that a 4000W boil in a 10" diameter pot will be too vigorous. I might have to get the 240 VAC variac back from my meat smoker to operate the finisher. If that's the case, then I'll need to build a different base for it.

[Cedar Eater]

I'm a little concerned that a 4000W boil in a 10" diameter pot will be too vigorous. I might have to get the 240 VAC variac back from my meat smoker to operate the finisher. If that's the case, then I'll need to build a different base for it.

I finally got a chance to try the finisher tonight. It will need a variac. The boil in a ten inch diameter pot was quite impressive.