View Full Version : please critique my pan design
parrothead600
03-07-2017, 07:48 AM
I have been using an old steel pan for reducing my sap. I would have to guess that this pan is over 50 years old & it's getting pretty rough. I am planning on have a stainless steel pan made to fit my evaporator. I'll attach drawings of my plans & everyone can make suggestions if I need to change anything.158981589915900
parrothead600
03-07-2017, 07:52 AM
just for clarification, since I didn't indicate it on the plans; the drop tubes would be spaced on 3" centers to allow for approx. 2" of space between the tubes.
mellondome
03-07-2017, 08:04 AM
Is this going to be your only pan? Or is there a flat pan this is connected to? And why different lengths on the drop tubes? Why not add the extra inch on each side to make it a true 2x4 pan? Any float connections? Draw off connections? Drains?connections to a front pan?
parrothead600
03-07-2017, 08:36 AM
This is my only pan. I reduce the sap in batches to get it close to syrup, then take it into the house to finish it. The 22" wide dimension is because I built my evaporator to fit my current pan & I don't want to rebuild my evaporator. As far as the different length drop tubes go; this is to ensure that I have adequate space in my arch, as I originally designed it for a flat pan. I don't want to choke off the draft.
I don't feel that I need any drain since I can scoop it out into a bucket for finishing. I will need to remove the pan & dump it to drain the drop tubes (no getting away from that). I have a small pot that sits on the top corner of my pan for fresh sap to pass thru a preheater then into the pan, which I can regulate the flow manually.
I dont really see the need for different length drop tubes. No deviders and front pan? You have the length
My worry would be that it's possible you could take it too syrup without noticing it and burn your pan, due to hot spots. I'm not familiar with drop tube pans though. I'm almost done with my new pans, having them welded now, after all the troubles of finding a competent welder (which isn't cheap) and such. My advice would be to price out what you will spend on fabricating that pan first and then look for a used arch and pans. I know you would be much happier and it will be less time boiling. Good luck!
BlueberryHill
03-07-2017, 09:25 AM
I would say that if you are gonna do all the work building that, to incorporate some flat sections in the front so that you can do continuous boil instead of batch. Would be a nice upgrade IMHO.
madmapler
03-07-2017, 09:31 AM
I would consider some cross flow dividers and a flat finishing area in front.
Waynehere
03-07-2017, 09:37 AM
I agree, you will need some flat pan area and flues to make your syrup flow to a valve so you can draw it off when it gets near finished. I ran a 2x6 for the first few years with drop tubes. Had a 3x3 in the rear and front. Should have been 2x4 and 2x2 ideally. But the one thing I see is that the sides are not near high enough either. Mine, with a really good fire going, would be just like geysers. They would jump so far in the air that I had a splash guard made up and it still wasn't enough. It was probably another 10" taller then my 8" tall pan. If you are making your pan, I would plan on higher sides or you will be washing down your floor from the sap jumping literally right out of the pan... :)
parrothead600
03-07-2017, 12:27 PM
I agree, you will need some flat pan area and flues to make your syrup flow to a valve so you can draw it off when it gets near finished. I ran a 2x6 for the first few years with drop tubes. Had a 3x3 in the rear and front. Should have been 2x4 and 2x2 ideally. But the one thing I see is that the sides are not near high enough either. Mine, with a really good fire going, would be just like geysers. They would jump so far in the air that I had a splash guard made up and it still wasn't enough. It was probably another 10" taller then my 8" tall pan. If you are making your pan, I would plan on higher sides or you will be washing down your floor from the sap jumping literally right out of the pan... :)
What size drop tubes did your pan have? Also, how deep were you keeping the sap in the pan? If I understand your post correctly, you had 18" tall sides on that pan; correct?
Waynehere
03-08-2017, 01:10 AM
I had the typical 8" side pan with a deflector shield, adding another 10" at an angle to try and stop the sap jumping from the pan. See attached.
I believe I was running the sap pan maybe 1"? Can't remember....15931
parrothead600
03-08-2017, 07:42 AM
I had the typical 8" side pan with a deflector shield, adding another 10" at an angle to try and stop the sap jumping from the pan. See attached.
I believe I was running the sap pan maybe 1"? Can't remember....15931
Thanks for posting the picture of your setup. Maybe the drop tubes are not a good idea for my setup. With all the work that I do to collect & process the sap, I sure don't want it to end up on the floor. Right now, I'm just using a flat pan, no dividers, no steam hood, nothin' fancy. I am currently averaging approx. 7 gallons per hour. I would like the increase my boil rate without spending a small fortune, as I don't sell any syrup (it's just a hobby).
Waynehere
03-08-2017, 07:46 AM
I was getting about 20-25 on this setup. Didn't mean to discourage you. The drop tubes definitely helped. Just a FYI what I ran into is all... :)
Joe Hillmann
03-08-2017, 12:46 PM
This isn't necessary a comment on your pan but on any pans with copper tubes. Do you/How do you clean the drop tubes. I would imagine they get pretty dirty, from sticky sap when it is left to dry, crud settling out of the sap and tarnishing of the copper, I imagine it would be difficult to keep the tubes clean.
Waynehere
03-08-2017, 02:01 PM
I took a copper tube wire brush, cut the handle off it, put it in my drill and rammed the holes whenever I cleaned the pans. I usually filled the pan with 1/2" water and acid, heated it up a little with a small fire, wear goggles and gloves and clean each separate hole out. During cold snaps I would drain the pan and then use a shopvac with a small enough hose attached as an end attachment and sucked the holes dry. The wire brush cleaner usually left them nice and shiny, well, along with a little acid. Just try not to splash too much.
parrothead600
03-08-2017, 03:17 PM
I was getting about 20-25 on this setup. Didn't mean to discourage you. The drop tubes definitely helped. Just a FYI what I ran into is all... :)
20 gph would be awesome! This is exactly why I am asking for input from others. Definitely give me things to consider before I spend lots of $$$.
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