Drawing off in a sectioned pan

[wanabe]

Hello Maple Gods, I have a question hope sombody can answer. I've made syrup for the past couple of years on an old gas stove in the corner of my shed. This year I built a 2x4 wood fired arch with a propane fired preheater. I have a four section ss pan with manual draw off and a manual valve on the seperate preheater. OK now for the question. When I start to draw maple syrup off do I hve to flood the beginning of the pan with raw sap so the pan level stays the same or just draw off little bits to a time? Also when Im done boiling I cant just shut the heat off the way I could on the stove how do I keep the pan from burning down? Any info would be of great help Thanks

[Salmoneye]

Most 'front' pans have either gates or pipes between the sections that you can close off so as to segregate the sections...

I have a sideways 3 section front pan that I can close off the sections with a brass plug on a stick...This way I am only making 'syrup' in the last section and when I draw-off I am only lowering the level in that section...When I am about to draw off I will start to flood from the back forward with more sap, I will open the draw and completely clean that section even going so far ads to 'squeegee' the syrup to the draw with the scoop...As the last syrup is coming out, I will pull the plug flooding that section, and then close the draw just as the 'newer' stuff gets to the tap...

I do NOT recommend this unless you see it done or are comfortable...Not recommended for soldered front pans either unless you are very good at it...

I guess to answer your initial question, It depends on how your pan is built...If you can close it off you can keep scooping from the next section bakc into the last section while closed and make syrup only in that section...You may also be able to open your valve just enough to let out finished syrup on a constant basis while adding fresh sap from your preheater at the same time...Both methods will work...

Sorry about the length LOL

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

Jeff,

Sounds like you are starting out right with the setup you have. With that size pan and being sectioned with forced air, you ought to really make some nice syrup. :D :D

Since you're not that experienced, what I would recommend you do is to draw off small amounts at a time such as a pint or quart. This will not be enough to affect the level in the pans to the point of causing them damage. After you draw off a small amount, you could just open up the preheater valve just a touch more where it would take about 10 to 20 minutes to get the level back up in the pan. This way your not slowing down the boiling at all.

An even better way would be to draw off continually as Salmoneye suggested. It may only be a drip, but you can get it where you are dripping off a quart of syrup probably every hour or even every 30 to 45 minutes. This way you can save up two or three days cookings and then finish it when your are not boiling.

[wanabe]

Thanks for the info guys my pan is home built and I did not make it to block off one section (never thought of it) so I will draw a little at a time. Does anyone know about how many gallons of sap I should be able to boil an hour in this size rig with a preheater and forced air 2x4 pan? Thanks

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

Wanabe,

With it having forced air and a good preheater, you may get as high as 15 gallons per hour, but I would think you could get at least 12. :D :D :D

Good luck and keep us posted as to how you do and how many gallons per hour you get. Most people with a 2x4 pan don't have as nice as a setup as you, so it makes it a little harder to estimate.

[wanabe]

Ok Brandon Ill keep you all posted my whole setup is home built so we will see. Ijust took a little tour and found my taps to be drip the first time in a week so maybe I can flood the thing in the next couple of days. :D

[syrupmaker]

Jeff....we also made our pans the preheater is 33x 44 and the sectional syrup pan is 33x44.We slowly add opposite the draw side as we are drawing off and that will push the heavier to the draw side. When we shut down for the day we open the valve and let both pans level out.about 3.5 ". by morning when we come back the level is down to around1/2-3/4". The next tinme we fire is usually a quick draw due to sugar already being in the pan.

Rick

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

Jeff,

As far as flooding the pans as night as syrupmaker suggested, be extremely careful as you could come back the next morning and find a bunch of black scorched pans. It is a great idea, but start out cautious by adding 5 or 6 inches to the pan and work down from there. It is better to be over cautious than to ruin or scorch your pans.

One thing to remember is that the longer you cook, the more hot coals and the more heat the firebox holds, hence the more liquid you need to add.

[Salmoneye]

Kick the firing doors open to allow cool air across the bottom of the pan, flood the pan and stir the coals...

As stated above, start with way too much and work your way down till you learn your evap and how deep she wants/needs to be flooded at shutdown...

[wanabe]

Well just got done boiling my first batch on my new home built evaporator. Thing worked real well after my first couple of hours had to get into a rythem for adding sap from the preheater. I averaged 12 gallons per hour with one hour of 14 with the forced air running, but must have a crack fire brick because I had a cherry red line in one side of the arch.Well my syrup was a medium amber kind of dark for a first boil. Is anyone else getting darker syrup?

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

Jeff,

Congratulations with the new setup. Sounds like you did real well and I guess I guessed right about the gph rate.

As far as color of syrup, yours is about the same as everyone else's first batch. It seems to get lighter for most, so keep up the hope anyway!