Removing Tubing from fittings?

[CTsap]

This is the first year I've used tubing. I have been removing 3/16th tubing from various fittings using a utility knife. Wondering if there's a better way?? I know its only a matter of time before I slip and wound myself..

[maple flats]

Why are you removing it? The fittings will leak if re-used. When you change a tap or other fitting just cut it off with a tubing cutter leaving that piece of tubing on the fitting. Then install a new one.

[CTsap]

I tightened up the line in a few places by pulling it tight and cutting off the excess then reattaching to the fitting. maybe I shouldn't have. I suppose I can go back and just replace the fitting. seemed to be snug when I reattached.

[Sugarmaker]

Some of the suppliers make a tool that has a blade the will cut through the tubing (5/16) and save the fitting. Don't know about 3/16 tubing and fittings?
regards,
Chris

[Super Sapper]

You can use some string to side tie your 3/16 line if it is a little slack in some areas. It does not seem to be as important with 3/16 compared to 5/16 but side tying will help.

[madmapler]

If you're careful you can do it that way or use a pair of sharp dikes and sort of pinch/snip it along the side. If you do it right you can pull the tubing away from the fitting before cutting it and you'll be okay. If you damage it then replace it. There's a guy up the road from me who says he has a more sure fire way of doing it and he's been doing it since tubing and vacuum have been around but I haven't seen his method yet.

[DrTimPerkins]

I tightened up the line in a few places by pulling it tight and cutting off the excess then reattaching to the fitting.

This is acceptable practice with gravity tubing.

With vacuum tubing (including 3/16" tubing set up for natural vacuum) it is a different story. Normal practice is to NOT reuse fittings. Cutting them off will sometimes cause scoring along the fitting surface, which causes microleaks when vacuum is pulled on the line, which means reduced vacuum and thus reduced sap yield. Therefore on vacuum systems it is usually better to just spend the extra $0.20 for a new fitting than to: 1) spent time looking for the leaks later on 2) probably replacing the fitting then.

In addition, for larger producers the time spent cutting the tubing off the fitting costs more than the amount of money spent on a new fitting. Time is money.

[CharlieVT]

What Tim Perkins said...

Or... if you are a small operation and subscribe to the old addage: "Use it up, wear it out, make it do, or do without." and you are willing to spend the time, here's an approach that works for me most of the time.

A pair of dikes or a tubing cutter (my preference since that is usually what I have in hand), is used to pinch the tubing.
I filed the non-cutting jaw of my tubing cutter so that it will "grab" the tubing and pinch it against the cutter before the cut actually begins. This allows the tubing to be pulled away from the fitting, reducing the chance of damaging the barbs.

First, cut the tubing off as close to the fitting as possible.

Then, squeeze the wall of the tubing so as to gather it up and pinch it away from the barbs on the fitting; if the cutter contacts the fitting at all, it will ruin that fitting and it should be discarded:
http://mapletrader.com/community/attachment.php?attachmentid=15441&d=1487020113

Then complete the cut, and peel the tubing away from the fitting:
http://mapletrader.com/community/attachment.php?attachmentid=15440&d=1487020108

Lastly, inspect the barbs for any damage. If the barbs show any signs of scoring or nicking, discard it. If the cutter contacted the barb(s) a small flat spot will appear at the edge of the barb; that is sure to leak. A defect smaller than can easily be seen with the naked eye can cause a leak; look very carefully.
http://mapletrader.com/community/attachment.php?attachmentid=15442&d=1487020119

With practice, it works most of the time.
Variables are tubing wall thickness (varies between manufacturers), ambient temperature, sharpness of the cutter (too sharp isn't better, you want to be able to pinch the tube before the cut begins), and the ability of the tubing cutter non-working jaw to "grab" the tubing.

Works for both 5/16 and 3/16.

But as Dr. Tim states above, a new fitting reduces the risk of leaks. While this method seems to work for me on both mechanical vacuum and 3/16th tubing, for many it may prove to be a false economy.

[CTsap]

Thank you for the responses. The pictures were very helpful. The potential to lose vacuum over a micro leak did not cross my mind. My vacs are still holding where they should be so I'll leave it be for now.

[mspina14]

This is the first year I've used tubing. I have been removing 3/16th tubing from various fittings using a utility knife. Wondering if there's a better way?? I know its only a matter of time before I slip and wound myself..

I got a cut on my hand that required 3 stitches 2 weeks ago from a utility knife that slipped on a piece of tubing I was trying to cut. I was setting up tubing in the sugar bush.

Didn't know that sugaring is a contact sport!


Mark

[jack324-1]

I remove about 100 fitting on drop from last year using my heat gun.. 1 4 second then it was soft so i could pull it off.

[eustis22]

I use a gardener's pruner to slice the tubing from my fittings.

[deckers007]

CharlieVT

I use the same approach for removing my fittings but find End-cutters do a better job, they close perpendicular from each other and always pull the tubbing well away from the fittings

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