Honda WX10 Thread Problem

[wnybassman]

I may have taken off the plastic prime and drain plugs for the last time tonight on my new pump. Doesn't seem like the threads on the plastic plugs and the threads on the aluminum body jive with each other. Took me almost 45 minutes to get them back on without cross threading. Anyone else have this issue? Very frustrating seeing they are nice big coarse threads.

[mudr]

Fuzzy memory, but I want to say I have one that had a slightly beat up thread last year. Not the entire plug, just were it starts at the end. Think I cleaned it up with a file or something. Threads easier now.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[Bucket Head]

Usually Honda's stuff is spot on. However, I have found foreign made pumps to have threads that are slightly off. I have a Robin/Subaru 4-stroke, 1" pump that had pipe threads that were off. I chased them with a pipe thread die and they worked. It seems the foreigners can't get the pitch just quite right, and this goes for some bolts and nuts too. They have trouble going to our S.A.E. stuff also.

And we gave up on priming through the hole provided years ago- with all our engine-driven pumps. We take a plastic pitcher, a half or 3/4 gallon or so in size, and dip it the sap and pour it directly into the end of the suction hose and fill the hose and pump up that way. Its a lot faster and the pump starts pumping almost immediately because everything is full. Well not completely full, but there's more liquid than air in the hose doing this way.

Steve

[wnybassman]

Priming isn't really an issue for me anyway. The way I have it set up I just open the tank valves and it fills the pump. I guess I was just unscrewing the plugs after pumping to drain everything out to prevent freezing. That might be able to be accomplished without taking out the plugs though. I'll find out the next time.

[maple flats]

That is why there are plastic plugs, if anything gets cross threaded it will be the plastic and not the metal on the pump. When I get any new pump, I order a spare or 2 of each plug, the drain and the prime. Then I have a good one if needed. Another method is to determine the thread (you say 1" but it may not be NPT) then buy a schedule 80 short nipple in that thread and a cap to go with it. Screw the short nipple (a close nipple may be slightly too short) in and then use the cap to close it. Again, have a spare on each part of this.

[Big_Eddy]

Quick tip - when you go to insert your plug, put just a little bit of inward pressure on the plug and slowly turn it backwards until you feel the threads "click" into place, then tighten it up. Works like magic and will prevent any future cross-threading problems.

[Urban Sugarmaker]

A little off topic but is the WX10 worth $400 vs. a Harbor Freight pump for $159 if I only use it during maple season?

[psparr]

Yes. Especially if your only using it once a year. Hondas will last forever just sitting there. Whereas trying to get a knock off to start is a whole other animal.

[mudr]

That would depend on the volume you are pumping and how long you are willing to wait. :)

It seems you can get a lot of 1 inch pumps around the 30 gpm speed, but the WX10 has greater "total max head lift" than a lot of the others, sometimes twice the head lift. While you may not need to actually pump straight up the 121 ft that the wx10 can perform, any restrictions (long hose, small diameter hose, rough inside surface, or lots of fittings) can rob performance, and lower the actual potential head lift by a pump.

I was made aware of a calculation sheet back in my internship times at the USDA/NRCS. It is pretty handy, though not the most intuitive to use at first. You can find it at the link below. If you are just pumping one full 55 gallon barrel through a 30 ft section of 1 inch to a holding tank, I wouldn't be too concerned or even run the numbers. I needed to hang a pump-out line in the woods that was 500 ft long and had an 18 ft rise. I played around with the line diameter and different pump specs because I didn't want to wait 2 hours to pump out my tank. It estimated the wx10 could do 15 GPM under those conditions. I've only used it once and didn't measure it but I think the estimate is reasonably accurate.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwiqwd6k043SAhVBoywKHQsmAkUQFggcMAA&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.nrcs.usda.gov%2FInternet%2FF SE_DOCUMENTS%2Fnrcs142p2_024468.xls&usg=AFQjCNG1mWcqLjugJB4ZwQufz5mcweX6IA&sig2=aeFa9D7z6pG9lIv3xHM0ug

[Urban Sugarmaker]

I would definitely prefer the Honda. Lately I have been trying to be in the mindset of buying quality and buying once rather than buying cheap and then quality later. Ultimately you spend more money in the long run. I just thought I would see what others' opinions were.

[jmayerl]

A little off topic but is the WX10 worth $400 vs. a Harbor Freight pump for $159 if I only use it during maple season?
I bought the harbor freight 2 years ago and pump 500 gallons per day. 400 ft to road , up 25 feet. Pump works great. get the 2 year warranty just in case

[psparr]

I should maybe rephrase my post.
I picked up a used one for $100 and it was basically new. So for me it was a no brainer. Probably wouldn't have bought one at full price, but now that I have it, I wouldn't go back.

[maple flats]

For about 4 years I bought the cheap Chinese 1.5" pumps from TSC, that's pumps at $179.99. Each last a year to year and a half and they quit, then they couldn't be fixed because the parts could not be gotten. Then I bought a Honda WX15 and I've been using it since 2007, still works great and never needed repairs. In fact it still has the initial spark plug. I change the oil once a year. I think it cost $449 with free shipping when I bought it, I see they are $494.99 -$529.99 now. Well worth it when you need to pump sap late at night and no stores are open.

[Urban Sugarmaker]

For about 4 years I bought the cheap Chinese 1.5" pumps from TSC, that's pumps at $179.99. Each last a year to year and a half and they quit, then they couldn't be fixed because the parts could not be gotten. Then I bought a Honda WX15 and I've been using it since 2007, still works great and never needed repairs. In fact it still has the initial spark plug. I change the oil once a year. I think it cost $449 with free shipping when I bought it, I see they are $494.99 -$529.99 now. Well worth it when you need to pump sap late at night and no stores are open.

Well that will just about do it for making a decision. Now the question is whether I really need the pump. My tank sits above the level of the trailer tank when I pull off to the side of the road. It is unclear whether the bottom of the collection tank will be at or higher than the top of the trailer tank. I can definitely siphon a lot but I am not yet certain the entire contents will siphon/drain, so that's why I am thinking about a pump.

[maple flats]

In that case, does the tank have a bottom drain? If not, add enough water to test the flow. How far apart will the 2 be?

[Urban Sugarmaker]

Yes. Both are 275 gallon totes. If you draw an imaginary line from the bottom of the collection tank to the trailer tank I don't think it clears the top. So it won't siphon once the fluid levels match.

The distance between the tanks is about 15-20 feet laterally.

Here's a video that shows what I think my situation is. It appears I need a pump or I potentially have to finish the job by filling buckets.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CZmP0vsRBZ8

[wnybassman]

That is why there are plastic plugs, if anything gets cross threaded it will be the plastic and not the metal on the pump. When I get any new pump, I order a spare or 2 of each plug, the drain and the prime. Then I have a good one if needed. Another method is to determine the thread (you say 1" but it may not be NPT) then buy a schedule 80 short nipple in that thread and a cap to go with it. Screw the short nipple (a close nipple may be slightly too short) in and then use the cap to close it. Again, have a spare on each part of this.

I will be picking up a set of plugs when I find them. Definitely not NPT, are way more coarse threaded than that. To me it looks like the threads on the aluminum body are goofy looking. The threads on the plugs were perfect and not a scratch on them. There was absolutely no reason for them not to just screw on easily.

[wnybassman]

Quick tip - when you go to insert your plug, put just a little bit of inward pressure on the plug and slowly turn it backwards until you feel the threads "click" into place, then tighten it up. Works like magic and will prevent any future cross-threading problems.

Believe, I was doing that.

[wnybassman]

A little off topic but is the WX10 worth $400 vs. a Harbor Freight pump for $159 if I only use it during maple season?

I found mine new in the box for $329 with free shipping. Hopefully it wasn't a 2nd though, with messed up plug threads lol

Two reasons I choose this pump. First is as you mentioned, buy quality the first time. This pump came highly recommended by a lot of you guys out there. Second, I wanted the 4 cycle motor. Didn't want to screw around with oil/gas mixture. Also, the 4 cycle is supposed to be much quieter, and there will be times I am pumping sap at wee hours of the morning and I think quieter will be better.

[Urban Sugarmaker]

I found mine new in the box for $329 with free shipping. Hopefully it wasn't a 2nd though, with messed up plug threads lol

Two reasons I choose this pump. First is as you mentioned, buy quality the first time. This pump came highly recommended by a lot of you guys out there. Second, I wanted the 4 cycle motor. Didn't want to screw around with oil/gas mixture. Also, the 4 cycle is supposed to be much quieter, and there will be times I am pumping sap at wee hours of the morning and I think quieter will be better.

Thanks. Didn't mean to hijack your thread. I will try to get by without the pump but if by the end of the weekend it's a total pain, I will get the pump and do it right.