Video of how to flare a steam tray hole when adding copper drop tubes

[Fznyupr]

I attempted to make a video showing how to flare a hole in a steam tray when adding a copper drop tubes. Benefits of flaring the hole in the bottom of the steam tray pan IMHO are 1. flaring stiffens the bottom of the pan, 2. easier to solder without warping the bottom of the pan due to the support of the flared hole.

Goal of the video is to give newbies like myself an idea of one way to flare a hole in a steam tray. It's not the best video but hopefully helpful.


https://youtu.be/TSNQEZhF61c

[coastie]

Thank you. So you don't flare the piece of copper pipe? Just the bottom of the pan?

[Fznyupr]

You could still flare the copper. I have done it both ways, flared the copper and not flared the copper but I have always flared the steam tray holes as flaring the steam tray had the most advantages. It just depends on the tools and how much time you have if you are going to flare the copper or not.


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[barnbc76]

Very good video, I wonder how it would work on 18 ga pan. I might consider trying this next year.

[coastie]

You could still flare the copper. I have done it both ways, flared the copper and not flared the copper but I have always flared the steam tray holes as flaring the steam tray had the most advantages. It just depends on the tools and how much time you have if you are going to flare the copper or not.


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Have you noticed any issues with the ones you didn't flare? Also what are you using for solder/braze?

[311Hemi]

I just got done with flaring my pan. Thanks for the instruction in your other post!

Here is what I did:
1) Drilled pilot holes with small bit.
2) Drilled hole with 3/4" step bit (basiaclly go all the way with through with the bit).
3) I ground down the threads on the end of a piece of black pipe to create a taper, then cut it to size. This ended up being just under 7/8". Pulled it through using the piceces as laid out in the picture below.
4) I then ground down a 5/8 brass flare nut to the OD of 3/4" copper, which is 7/8". I then pulled this through to flare the holes to their final size. After two test holes I got the brass just right so the copper pipe goes through yet is still tight.

The only thing I noticed is I had to lube the bolt frequently to keep the threads from getting messed up.

15335

15336

[Fznyupr]

Have you noticed any issues with the ones you didn't flare? Also what are you using for solder/braze?

I used typical lead free silver bearing solder in the plumbing section at big box stores.

I hadn't noticed any issues between the two.


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[Fznyupr]

Nice job 311hemi! Could you feel the bottom of the pan stiffen up after you flared the holes in the pan?


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[311Hemi]

Yep, it stiffened it up.

When you soldered the end shut, did you flux and tin inside before crimping?

[Fznyupr]

Yep, it stiffened it up.

When you soldered the end shut, did you flux and tin inside before crimping?

I did not tin before crimping the copper end shut - sounds like a good idea


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[Aaron Roy]

Have you tried the pan over heat yet? I have been shopping around for the flux you use (locally I know it's online) and when I speak to people at stores they wonder if it can stand the heat. This is because of the low melting temp of the solder. I saw your boiler and I believe it will make heat like mine.

[RileySugarbush]

The solder will not melt unless you boil it dry. Just like all soldered pans.