Auber auto draw off

[Bricklayer]

Finally got around to building my auto draw off kit from Auber. Took about 4 hours to put together. Had to borrow a step drill bit, buy a dremel bit for the square cut out and borrow a crimping tool for the end ferrules that are sent with the kit for the DIN rail connectors. But other then that it went together really well. Components are top quality and wire diagrams are easy to follow.
I did contact Auber about the possibility of them designing a wire diagram for power on/ power off type valves. This kit only provides power to open the valve. That's fine for me because the valve I have is power open capacitor close. They asked me to provide specs for a power open power close valve so they can update the wire diagram to accommodate these valves but I couldn't find one nor do I know if they are all the same. Maybe someone on maple trader could post one if they have one.
In total I spent
$165.00 for kit
$65.00 for 1" motorized ball valve
$ 15 for 14 gauge wire
$ 8 on dremel bit

Still have to get stainless steel fittings put together and $ added up on that. I keep changing my mind how I want to plumb it. Will post pics and total when I'm finished.


http://http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u495/bottenhof/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-12/6B51FD5C-8783-4DE3-8C6C-DAE3E5EFDE08_zpsobal5me6.jpg (http://s1070.photobucket.com/user/bottenhof/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-12/6B51FD5C-8783-4DE3-8C6C-DAE3E5EFDE08_zpsobal5me6.jpg.html)

[Bricklayer]

More pics

http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u495/bottenhof/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-12/B6F22D1F-EBEE-453B-83B7-C68B43CDFFDF_zpsu6mmycse.jpg (http://s1070.photobucket.com/user/bottenhof/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-12/B6F22D1F-EBEE-453B-83B7-C68B43CDFFDF_zpsu6mmycse.jpg.html)

http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u495/bottenhof/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-12/5D7CAA8A-7CE8-4FB5-B2B2-8A7FAF6977BF_zpsarmqwzgg.jpg (http://s1070.photobucket.com/user/bottenhof/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-12/5D7CAA8A-7CE8-4FB5-B2B2-8A7FAF6977BF_zpsarmqwzgg.jpg.html)

[unc23win]

Nice job it looks great!

[mapledavefarm]

You wont get much love from these guys unless you put a Smokey Jo sticker on it. Very nice job, sure beats spending 800-1200 bucks on one. Mind posting a how to?

[jmayerl]

Good luck with the capacitor close valve......

[Bricklayer]

I would post a how to but since everybody would be getting the parts through Auber anyways it dosnt make much sense. The $165 I spent on kit comes with complete instructions. Price the parts alone and it's about $161. So it would be a 4$ savings. Customer service is great at Auber as other on this site know so my advice is to get the kit if you want to make one.

[mapledavefarm]

Good luck with the capacitor close valve......

See, what did I tell ya.......

[mapledavefarm]

I would post a how to but since everybody would be getting the parts through Auber anyways it dosnt make much sense. The $165 I spent on kit comes with complete instructions. Price the parts alone and it's about $161. So it would be a 4$ savings. Customer service is great at Auber as other on this site know so my advice is to get the kit if you want to make one.

Thanks. Do you have a online link?

[Bricklayer]

See, what did I tell ya.......

I've done lots of reading on this site and fully accept the flak I'll take from trying to use a capacitor close valve. Lots of people still use them, a friend of mine has an older draw off that uses a solonoid valve. My plan is to keep it clean and rinse it out every night. If it dosnt work out I will put my tail between my legs and admit defeat.

Draw off kit
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=55&products_id=581

DIY auto draw diagram from Auber website ( not as many functions as draw off kit )
http://auberins.com/index.php?main_page=page&id=39

[mapledavefarm]

I've done lots of reading on this site and fully accept the flak I'll take from trying to use a capacitor close valve. Lots of people still use them, a friend of mine has an older draw off that uses a solonoid valve. My plan is to keep it clean and rinse it out every night. If it dosnt work out I will put my tail between my legs and admit defeat.

Draw off kit
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=55&products_id=581

DIY auto draw diagram from Auber website ( not as many functions as draw off kit )
http://auberins.com/index.php?main_page=page&id=39

Thanks for the links. Saving 800-1000 dollars with this kit I wouldn't mind rinsing the valve either. That's a pretty good wage!

[maple flats]

I'm not sure where you get the $800-1000 figure. I bought a Smokey Lake basic shut off for $495 this past Jan. (the price as of now has not changed) and it included the valve. What does your shut off do more than the basic?

[jmayerl]

See, what did I tell ya.......

What did you tell me???????????!

A capacitor close valve relies on power from opening to then be stored in the capacitor to keep the valve closed. If the valve is not plugged in long enough or doesn't cycle enough, it will open and dump the evaporator dry, it's not a good choice for the application. I like to build my own equipment but the autodraw was a no brainer to buy as it was $600 new so no, I'm not seeing how you say too save $1000

[mapledavefarm]

What did you tell me???????????!

A capacitor close valve relies on power from opening to then be stored in the capacitor to keep the valve closed. If the valve is not plugged in long enough or doesn't cycle enough, it will open and dump the evaporator dry, it's not a good choice for the application. I like to build my own equipment but the autodraw was a no brainer to buy as it was $600 new so no, I'm not seeing how you say too save $1000

I was taking to the original poster.

Wow! I'm out of touch, having them made in China has really reduced the price. Thanks for the update fellas !

[Bricklayer]

Worse comes to worse I'm out 65$ and have to buy a new valve that's power open power close. I just couldn't spend the $167 on the valve. If I have problems with my valve I will share it on this post. Like I stated in earlier post, I'm trying to come up with a way to modify the wiring on my draw off to accept a power open / power close valve just in case. Then it's just plug in and go if need be.

[mapledavefarm]

Worse comes to worse I'm out 65$ and have to buy a new valve that's power open power close. I just couldn't spend the $167 on the valve. If I have problems with my valve I will share it on this post. Like I stated in earlier post, I'm trying to come up with a way to modify the wiring on my draw off to accept a power open / power close valve just in case. Then it's just plug in and go if need be.

Keep us posted!

[mspina14]

Bricklayer:

How has the Auber auto draw off been working for you?

I'm thinking about purchasing a kit and building one for my evaporator.

thanks

Mark

[Bricklayer]

This will be my first year using it. It's ready to go. I did a couple test boils with water with it and it worked great. Real test will be comming up. I haven't tapped yet. Trying to wait out the 2 week cold snap we are expecting up here next week

It's a real good deal for $165. But by the time you get the valve, and the plumbing for the valve, throttling valve and test valve. It ended up costing me about $350. Got the valve on eBay and misc stainless fittings and ball valves on amazon.

[wmick]

I'm guessing you are already prepared for this but I'll throw this out there in case it helps.
I dropped in at a Maple equipment supplier on Friday to pick up a few things, including my first hydrometer. While giving me a, much appreciated, "Syrup Producing 101", the owner happened to talk about the auto-draw-off systems... and said that he gets quite a few calls from new users, saying "the system isn't working right"... The common issue, is that the users aren't making regular checks and adjustments to account for change in Barometric pressure (which can change significantly, even throughout a day, if a storm is moving in, etc.) ... Once they start doing this, all is good...

[Bricklayer]

I usually check numerous times throughout the day when I didn't have an auto draw. So nothing will really change in that aspect. I have really gone a bit overkill with an auto draw for my 2x5 pan. But it allows me to have an accurate digital readout of where my boil temps are. I found the dial thermometers not very accurate and slow responding. I run my sap rlevel really low about 3/4" to get the most efficiency so it gets pretty nutty when I'm getting syrup in 2 channels of my pan and have to sit right by the thermometer and fire every 7-8 minutes. I'm boiling concentrate this year so going to be even more crazy. But at least I can stay at front of evap and fire and read my temps from same spot and know that it will draw off when it hits temp even if I'm firing. Same reason I'm sure most people get an auto draw

[BAP]

Bricklayer, how has the auto draw off worked out? How about the valve?

[Bricklayer]

The capacitor close valve FAILED after 3 draws. Nothing catastrophic like emptying my pan or anything like that. It plugged up and would not close all the way. So I left it the way it was stuck open and just used my throttle valve to draw off.
So for all the people that said to get a power open/ power close valve. You were right. I can say I tried.
I ordered a new actuator for the valve and it's a direct replacement. 3 wire power open/close. I will have it by Monday. Hopefully get to try it out this year.
Other then my poor decision on the valve the auto draw works great. I love having the temp in real time. Makes a huge difference. And the alarm works great too. When my valve failed I set the alarm to go off at 219.7 my drawoff temp for the day and when it went off I would open the throttle valve. Kind of defeats the purpose of an auto draw but it sure does help.

[Fznyupr]

I also have 12v Auber PID and Probe in my Auto draw off setup with a 3 wire power open/close valve and it has been working well this 1st season. I did ordered two PID units one for syrup and one for stack temp. One of the PID's had a bad J2 relay but I was promptly taken care of, great customer service.

[stoweski]

I built my own auto drawoff using a thread that was posted on the trader a couple of years ago (sorry, can't think of who posted the info). At the time Aubers didn't have the kit - that came out about 6 months later - but using his instructions and wiring diagram I was able to build it for around $275 with the valve and stainless fittings.

After using it for 3+ seasons I can say im very happy with it. It's worked great. Only issue I had was this January I went to set things up and found the valve didn't work. I disassembled it and found a dead bee stuck in it. I must not have completely cleaned it out and the bee found the sugar. After a good cleaning and reassembly it works as good as new.

[Ghs57]

The capacitor close valve FAILED after 3 draws. Nothing catastrophic like emptying my pan or anything like that. It plugged up and would not close all the way. So I left it the way it was stuck open and just used my throttle valve to draw off.
So for all the people that said to get a power open/ power close valve. You were right. I can say I tried.
I ordered a new actuator for the valve and it's a direct replacement. 3 wire power open/close. I will have it by Monday. Hopefully get to try it out this year.
Other then my poor decision on the valve the auto draw works great. I love having the temp in real time. Makes a huge difference. And the alarm works great too. When my valve failed I set the alarm to go off at 219.7 my drawoff temp for the day and when it went off I would open the throttle valve. Kind of defeats the purpose of an auto draw but it sure does help.

Bricklayer, which replacement valve did buy? I'm thinking about this kit, and might as well consider the power open/close valve too. I would also like to add a stack temp readout.

[Bricklayer]

Ehcotech valve 1" NC Stainless. Not sure of the product number because I just ordered a replacement 3 wire actuator. I should have the valve Monday so I will try it and post my results.

[Bricklayer]

Installed a new 3 wire power open/ power close/ valve actuator on my 1" valve. Used it for 3 boils and it worked amazing. Not one issue. I made sure I didn't take it off in between boils to clean it out to really put it to the test. It passed with flying colours. And I did notice also that it has capacitors in case there is a power failure. If it loses all power it returns to the closed position. You can tell by the sound when it loses power and closes with the capacitors. All in all I'm very happy with the autodraw and new valve.

[BAP]

Did you have to make any changes in the control box to go to a power open/ power close valve? Or was it all set for that.

[Bricklayer]

I originally thought i was going to have to rewire the controls but it was very simple. The valve as long as its a NC valve requires switched power to open it only and a constant power to close it. The valve has a limit switch in it to know if it's open or close. So long story short all that I'd needed from the control box is a constant hot wire to valve. I used the original panel mount 120v 3a outlet provided with the kit and ran my switched power and constant hot to the 2 main prongs and used the ground prong as the neutral. Very illegal but it worked and got me through this year. I'm gonna install a panel mount 3 pin DIN connector similar to the RTD probe connector this off season to make it more legal and safer.

[kitkat]

I also put together a kit from Auberins. Went ok but Iam not the sharpest knife in the drawer when it comes to electrical,
especially when things dont work the way you think that they should. I want to send out a special THANK YOU to BRICKLAYER for all of
his help. This guy knows his stuff ! It is working good now, but I also am going the change out the plug where the constant hot wire is hooked up for the power valve. Thanks again.
Oh yeah, the power valve came from Ehcotech. Esa Harvela ( the owner) also was very helpful in ordering the correct valve.
The people at Auberins were also very helpful, great customer service.