reverse fired arch pics

[Dale Sparrow]

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[nymapleguy607]

Nice looking build, are you going to add a baffle of some sort above the back wall? Also, what is the hole next to the oil gun?

[Dale Sparrow]

Don't plan on adding baffle, boils good the way it is. Hole next to burner is for sight glass.

[mellondome]

Is this shape and the ramp up under the back pan the same as the major manufacturers reverse fired raised flue arches?

[Dale Sparrow]

Not that I know of. The dimensions and ramp angle are my own and derived from my own calculations. I tried to get some major manufactures to give me some help but they were not interested in helping me. I read "Oil Firing for the Maple Sirup Evaporator" by Phillips and Homiller at least a dozen times. I also used the Carlin 601 installation manual for min combustion chamber dimensions and researched everything I could find online about boilers, evaporators and combustion chambers. Drew up several different "blue prints" before I settled on the final design that I built.

[Dale Sparrow]

Needs baffle, draft is to strong. Boils nice though.

[backyard sugaring]

HI Dale, keep an eye on your stack temperature. I had to make and adjust my baffle which lowered my stack temperature and increased my boil rate. I built a rear fired evaporator also. Nice job on the build. Lee

[sshanny]

Forgive my ignorance here but what is the advantage of the rear fired configuration? I currently have a 2x6 wood arch converted to oil, Carlin 201 gun and I have had a heck of a time getting good boil across full front pans and full boil across flue pan. I have tried different nozzles, pressures, currently at 60 degree 3 gal at 135PSI. I was looking to upgrade to a factory designed D&G setup but I hear there are issues with those as well concerning getting a decent even boil. Wondering if I should just do what Dale has done.

[Urban Sugarmaker]

Forgive my ignorance here but what is the advantage of the rear fired configuration? I currently have a 2x6 wood arch converted to oil, Carlin 201 gun and I have had a heck of a time getting good boil across full front pans and full boil across flue pan. I have tried different nozzles, pressures, currently at 60 degree 3 gal at 135PSI. I was looking to upgrade to a factory designed D&G setup but I hear there are issues with those as well concerning getting a decent even boil. Wondering if I should just do what Dale has done.

I spoke to Leader about this. The reason you have trouble with your front pan is because of the location and shape of the flame. Leader told me they don't sell a lot of front-fired units due to this. The reverse-fired units force the flame forward and then the hot gasses have to make a 180 to through the flues and on to the stack. From what I understand, this solves the problem you describe. I am considering an upgrade and I'd like to do a reverse-fired oil arch.

[wnybassman]

I spoke to Leader about this. The reason you have trouble with your front pan is because of the location and shape of the flame. Leader told me they don't sell a lot of front-fired units due to this. The reverse-fired units force the flame forward and then the hot gasses have to make a 180 to through the flues and on to the stack. From what I understand, this solves the problem you describe. I am considering an upgrade and I'd like to do a reverse-fired oil arch.

Looks like a reverse fire would also save some room too, something I would definitely be interested in.

[Urban Sugarmaker]

Looks like a reverse fire would also save some room too, something I would definitely be interested in.

Yes, and in my case room saved is crucial. Also, if you look at Leader's oil evaporator guide, they suggest a 6" diameter stack for a 2'-wide rig. If that's the case, then I don't need to replace my stack.

[Dale Sparrow]

Reverse fire distributes heat very evenly. I don't think it would matter what type of nozzle is used since the flow of the gasses is forced up on to the bottom of the syrup pan by the design it's self. First nozzle I tried worked great, 45 degree solid. Runs a little hotter in the middle, the only reason I know this is because it starts to boil there first, after it is up to a full boil you can not tell. Makes syrup like a dream, forms a beautiful gradient, nice steady draw-offs and steady Freddy heat.

[mellondome]

Needs baffle, draft is to strong. Boils nice though.
You should use an auto draft damper in your stack to control the draft.

[backyard sugaring]

I wasn't clear I have a barometric damper on my flue pipe. I had to put a baffle to slow the flue gases down to the flue pipe. Oil fired is different than wood, because it heats with radiant heat. Under your pans where the light from the ball of flame illuminates is where the heat is. My evaporator works best with a more solid flame. Good luck. Lee

[heus]

Dale thanks for sharing.

[Dale Sparrow]

My stack is 10" with a barometric damper. Tried playing with damper to slow draft down, slowed down a little but not enough. Draft is at .12 with damper being held open. Draft should be between .02 and .1 , I need to remove flue pan to install a baffle in the arch. Going to wait until end of season for mods.

[mellondome]

Where are you measuring the draft at? Firebox or stack?

[Dale Sparrow]

Stack at rail.

[mellondome]

10in damper?

[Dale Sparrow]

10 inch barometric damper.