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View Full Version : Bosworth diaphram pump for hybrid 3/16 system



seanbutler
12-13-2016, 09:17 AM
Hi all,

I've been using 3/16 tubing on good slopes for two seasons now, and am happy with the results. However, I've been thinking about adding a pump, to deal with the following problems:

1) Vacuum is low to non-existent at the bottoms of my lines;

2) Leak detection is difficult;

3) Sometimes not all the sap drains out of low angle lines at the end of the season, resulting in mold.

I think that adding a pump could deal with all these problems. I could add a high cfm pump, but one of the reasons I went with 3/16 in the first place was that I wanted to avoid the noise of a pump. They are also more expensive. So a quiet diaphragm pump seems like a good compromise. It won't give me the highest vacuum possible, but should give me decent vacuum in the bottom of my lines, and deal with the other problems listed above.

This is the pump I'm considering: Bosworth Co-Diaphragm Pumps: Hand, Foot & Electric; Y-Valves

I'm thinking that I can undersize the pump, because I only need it to bring vacuum to the lower taps. This pump is rated for up to 800 taps, but I would put it on a line with 1500 taps. Does anyone have any experience with this kind of set-up, and how did it work out for you? Specifically:

- how often did the diaphragm wear out?
- how clear was it when the diaphragm needed replacing?
- would you recommend putting a filter in the intake to help protect the diaphragm?
- how well does the vacuum transfer over long distances (like 1000') of mainline?
- are leaks more of a problem with diaphragm pumps than with higher cfm pumps? In other words, are they less forgiving?
- would it take a long time for the vacuum to build up in a system with 1500 taps?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

PerryFamily
12-13-2016, 07:36 PM
So I've done this , with far fewer taps, 200 on 600' of 3/4 with 5/16 tubing, in a squirrel infested woods

I used the cdl single diaphragm pump
I put a 12' pice of schedule 40 with a ss screen in the middle to catch ice and junk
I tapped the sch 40 for a vacuum gauge
Once tight it ran 24-25" all season

To isolate leaks , squirrel chews, I put ball valves in the main to start at the pump and fix leaks n the first section. Once tight go up the main and open the next one, check the gauge and go fix the leaks.
I think I had 4 valves total

Doesn't take too long to build vacuum

I did replace a diaphragm mid season but I think there was ice in the pump when I started it
I couldn't find a visual rip but I'm sure it doesn't take much

I think it will work great in your situation

seanbutler
12-13-2016, 09:26 PM
Thanks for the info. Why the sch 40? Why not just run your 3/4 mainline straight into the pump?

How did you put the ss screen into the sch 40?

How did you know the diaphragm needed replacing? Vacuum loss? How did you know it wasn't a leak?

PerryFamily
12-14-2016, 07:26 AM
Thanks for the info. Why the sch 40? Why not just run your 3/4 mainline straight into the pump?

How did you put the ss screen into the sch 40?

How did you know the diaphragm needed replacing? Vacuum loss? How did you know it wasn't a leak?

I used the schedule 40 to have a place for the ice to settle against the screen. The screen is a piece if stainless mesh. I cut the sch40, and used a fernco flexible coupling, put the mesh between the two and put it back together. At the end of the sch40 I used a camlock to connect to the main, lots of times I would use another piece of 3/4 pipe with a camlock to bypass the pump if I didn't think id be back to plug it in until after the sap started running

I could not get it to build vacuum, I also have a ballvalve at the pump so I can isolate it from the woods. That way I can tell if its the diaphragm or the woods

I'd get 400 gallons from those 200 taps pretty consistently

PerryFamily
12-14-2016, 07:33 AM
14836

Here's a decent picture

seanbutler
12-14-2016, 10:38 PM
Thanks, that's helpful!

Drew Pond Maple
12-18-2016, 07:06 AM
Here is my version of ice screen. Same as PerryFamilys stainless screen sandwiched between the two reducers and glued.
I don't have valves to isolate different sections but will be adding some later.
I replace the diaphragm every year regardless, because I have come home from work to find the tank nearly empty and the diaphragm spraying sap all over the place. 14844

bmbmkr
12-18-2016, 12:34 PM
Will this pump pull enough vacuum to have a 10'sap ladder at the end of 1000' of 3/4" mainline that's on 2% slope. The 1000'has 100 taps mostly 3/16 with over 50' of drop. I could pick up another 50-75 taps with a sap raiser and another 400' of main. They're isolated on the lower end of my property on a steep bank with no vehicle access, well maybe a boat lol. Trying to figure out a way to get that much more sap to the shack without carrying anything.

PerryFamily
12-18-2016, 04:14 PM
Will this pump pull enough vacuum to have a 10'sap ladder at the end of 1000' of 3/4" mainline that's on 2% slope. The 1000'has 100 taps mostly 3/16 with over 50' of drop. I could pick up another 50-75 taps with a sap raiser and another 400' of main. They're isolated on the lower end of my property on a steep bank with no vehicle access, well maybe a boat lol. Trying to figure out a way to get that much more sap to the shack without carrying anything.

Its my understanding that since these pumps move very very little CFM's that they probably would not wotk with a ladder. But.... I am absolutely no expert, nor have I ever tried it