Re-skinning arch

[Bricklayer]

Been sanding down my arch to prep it for paint and have pretty much given up. Had and idea about using 1/4" cement board and re-skinning it from the outside and using 2x2 stainless angle I have to attach it to the arch with pop rivets. Any body ever done this? Seem like it would work.

[Sugarmaker]

Some pictures might help? I assume you have a metal shell (sides) of steel or stainless? its been about 18 years since i re-tinned ours in stainless.
regards,
Chris

[Bricklayer]

Can post some pics tonight. Yes it's angle iron frame skinned from inside with 16 gauge metal.

[RileySugarbush]

You could just skin over the outside with whatever sheet metal you want, and put straps over the edges. Yes self drilling and tapping sheet metal screws. I built my arch with steel angles and skinned with 16 ga using that method and it looks fine and hold up well.

[Bricklayer]

Got a quote from a couple places today and stainless is out of the question. $500 for the material plus cutting and shearing.
24 or 28 gauge galvanized is is the price range though. Is there a minimum gauge to go with for the re-skin. And will galvanized be ok. Guess I wouldn't have to worry about painting it. I'm sure the galvanizing would burn off eventually. But since there is already a skin on it and this is basically just ashthetic it might hold up longer?

[RileySugarbush]

I just use cold rolled sheet and paint it with high temp black. With an insulated arch, it holds up fine. Simple, cheap and looks ok.http://mapletrader.com/community/attachment.php?attachmentid=14810&stc=1

[Bricklayer]

What gauge cold rolled did you use?

[RileySugarbush]

16 ga. 18 would be fine too. A lot of arches are built very very strong. I went the other way and mine is just a simple frame of 1.25 x .125 angle steel, skinned as described in an earlier post. Actually, in most areas I just screwed the sheet to the angle with no straps. I used 1" ceramic blanket and that contributes to the air tight performance. Arch front panel is 10ga ( 1/8") sheet since it supports the door. It is plenty strong and stiff and has performed perfectly for many years, and this year I extended the back 2' to fit my new 2x8 Smokylake drop flue. You can see the extension in the previous picture. I added hinges to the back end panel so I can brush those long long flues!

[wiam]

I used 16 gauge cold rolled on mine. Painted with rustolium. 2" ceramic blanket. Looks fine after one season.

[Bricklayer]

Going to go pick the steel up tomorrow. Get this done before it gets any colder.
Did you have any problems with screws breaking off while installing them? When I built mine last year I had a hell of a time getting screws that wouldn't break off while attaching to the 5/16 angle. I pre drilled and everything. Even bought stainless TEK screws and same thing. I was thinking this time I would get stainless machine screws and pre drill then tap a thread in the angle. This way the screws could be replaced if need be and I wouldn't be breaking off screws. Little bit extra work but worth it i think

[RileySugarbush]

I have never had one twist off. I used #10 steel, some form mcMaster and some from my favorite Ace hardware. Stainless is more likely to fail and I would avoid them.

[Bricklayer]

Picked up 2 sheets of 16 gauge cold rolled today. They had 4 sheets of 24 gauge stainless mill finish in the clearance rack for 35$ each. So I bought them just cause. Now I'm thinking of using them instead. Is 24 gauge stainless ok ?

[Sugarmaker]

If its just a skin over an existing layer then it will probably be fine with the thinner stainless. Depends if your going for looks or structure?
pictures?
Regards,
Chris

[Bricklayer]

Just going for looks. Using the stainless will keep me from having to paint to every couple years too. When I dive into it I will post some pictures.