View Full Version : 3/16 drop replacement
milligkl
11-21-2016, 11:39 AM
Hello,
I've been replacing drops for the first time this year, and for the future just wanted to know if there was a better way to do it. I've been cutting the entire tee and tap out first, and then adding a new drop. Is there a way to do it where you can keep the tee and just replace the tubing and tap part of it that wouldn't be too difficult?
Thanks,
Kevin
CharlieVT
11-21-2016, 12:06 PM
Hello,
...Is there a way to do it where you can keep the tee and just replace the tubing and tap part of it that wouldn't be too difficult?...
If you find it, let us all know.
Several message threads discuss this. Cutting the drop off the tee risks damage to the barbs which will result in a leak; particularly true where vacuum is involved.
I have read that there is a 5/16th tool for cutting drops off the tee, seems to have mixed reviews. Not sure if a 3/16th tool for this purpose is available yet.
Heating the tubing to remove it is time consuming and also risks damage to the barbs...
You can cut in with a straight connector for about 21 cents per connector versus 30+cents for a new tee; after a couple of few years you'll run out of old drop and need to replace the tee anyway. You decide if that is worth the trouble.
In short, cutting in a whole new drop: Tee, tubing, and spout seems to be the way to do it.
mainebackswoodssyrup
11-21-2016, 01:11 PM
General consensus is just what CharlieVT said, if doing a drop and new tap you might as well do the T. An old tee, just like an old tap will hinder yields. We have a 5/16" tool for removing the tubing from connectors but there is still a pretty good chance the barbs get damaged. I don't care for it and opt for a new tee.
You might find it less time consuming if you make the drops ahead of time, like in the shack or your house with heat. The tubing is easier to work with at room temperature than in the bush and its a good bad weather day activity. We are replacing 1350 drops this year and every year to get the woods on a 4 year cycle. Our plan is to go through once and get all the lines fixed then go back and place the new pre-made drops on 1/4 of the bush before its time to tap. The only downside to this is that it is hard to carry more than 150 at a time but we have good access trails throughout the bush so we just go back to the ATV and get more when we run out.
DrTimPerkins
11-21-2016, 02:24 PM
General consensus is just what CharlieVT said, if doing a drop and new tap you might as well do the T.
Agree with both earlier posts.
We've run the time/cost calculations. Generally you'll save a little money upfront if you don't replace the tee. However if you are using high vacuum, the time spent finding the small percentage of leakers (caused by getting the tubing off the barb....we've not found a way that doesn't reliably not damage at least some of them) and the lost production from same makes it a wash. Given that it is a very quick and easy job to replace the entire drop including the tee if you have a 2-handed tubing tool, that is what we do.
milligkl
11-22-2016, 09:23 AM
generally per day how many drops can be replaced by one person working? I've been averaging around 90-120 and I'm curious if that is a good rate or not.
WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER
11-22-2016, 07:56 PM
I would think 300 to 500 day with good tool.
generally per day how many drops can be replaced by one person working? I've been averaging around 90-120 and I'm curious if that is a good rate or not.
mainebackswoodssyrup
11-22-2016, 08:04 PM
There's a lot of variables including the amount of taps per acre, steepness of the terrain, etc. If working in the snow, it's obviously a big time killer.
Our bush is average in taps per acre at 60-80 per acre and moderate steepness. 300 is a good day this time of year without fighting the snow. Cut 1/3 off that when in snowshoes. And that's doing what I stated above with carrying pre-made drops. Counting the time in the bush to cut a new drop, place a tap and tee and you're probably close. It takes a lot of time to make drops.
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