drop lines

[mapleman3]

I have a question about drop lines, i have quite a few(not on vac) that are long droplines that when I taped left a U from tap to tee, they are full of sap, but don't seem to be running, should I shorten those drops so they go straight into the tee, won't that goof me up and maybe make them too short for next year? does the stop the flow or once they are full they will still run???? HELP

[backyardsugarer]

Jim,

I am in a similar situation, the lines are full but not running. They will come around when we get some sap to push them. In my opinion leave them alone. At least that is what I am going to do.

Chris

[syrupmaker]

Jim.... your to darn nervous, the trees are napping yet. Have the trees on buckets taken off yet? I would leave 'em the lenghth they are 24-36" depending on the tree that your tapping. I agree that if you shorten them 3 years from now you won't reach an area to tap. Is there sap sitting in the branch line also or just in the drop line? We try and set it so that the drop will slope towards the "T" but some end up looking like a "P" trap under your sink.


REMEMBER: IF YOU BUILD IT THE SAP WILL COME :twisted:

Rick

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

Jim,

If they were vented, the sap would run out. Since they are unvented and no sap is running out, it means the sap is not running. They are air locked and there is nothing to push the sap out since they are unvented and not running.

[mapleman3]

Jeremy, I did just that on some of them , looked like a good idea. looks like the big runs coming next week for sure, we'll see then.
Thanks All for the help!!! I Love this place!!!

[powerdub]

I have also taken string or long wire ties and tied them together to form an S shape so they did not sag below the lateral line. It does help more than you know to keep those from sagging below. Gravity is your friend and if you have a P trap at every tree you are going to lose some volume. Sags in your line will do the same thing. They all add up and cost you in the end. Some may say I am anal but it is the details in the bush that will determine how much sap you get in the end.

[Parker]

I have tried to get all the loops and sags out of my lines, I worry about sap sitting in the lines over long warm periods and giving the syrup an off flavor-darker grade, but that is just my 2cents

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

Since I don't know a lot about tubing, I am wondering what is everyone's preference for the length of drop lines or does it vary by the diameter of the tree???

I have always herd that they should be 3 feet long but that was from dealers who are selling the stuff....I have found that for the relitivly small trees i tap that 2 feet is fine,,,,if you had a bush with all 3 footers in it mabey this would not work......if the drops are too long then it is very difficult to keep the drops all running into the tubing without sags and the p traps mentioned inthe above posts,,,,,remember that you need the drop line tight and running downhill between the tap and the tubing line and if you have 3 foot drops then it will be at least 2 feet between the level of the tubing and where you have to tap,,,my tubing is usualy 4 feet above the ground and my taps all seem to be about 5 -6 feet up,,,,3 foot drops = 6-7 feet up (for me anyways) Good luck,,,,,Parker

[Brian]

Glen Goodrich makes all of his drops 32 inches long. He likes to keep them tight from the tree to the tee without sags. The less bacteria the lighter the syrup.

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

Should I use the stanard round wall tubing, the really flexible stuff since I have a ton of it that is new or nearly new for my drop lines. Seems to me it would be easier to work with because of the flexibility.

[Parker]

I would use whatever you have on hand but I would not buy anything special to make them,,in the futcher when I put some more together I will use the 30-P,,I love that stuff,,cheap, it does not come apart, and nice to work with ((but you do need the tool))

[Maple Hill Sugarhouse]

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[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

It sure is extremely easy to make drop lines if you submerse about 2" of tubing in a pot of boiling water for about 5 seconds. You can put the spout or fitting in extremely easy with your hand.

Does anyone else do this or is there a problem with it. I always thought it would work great, so I tried a few and it is extremely easy! :D

[howden86]

i put them in hot water and it worked fine for me however others says it will break there, but mine have been ok

[Maple Hill Sugarhouse]

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[Brian]

I usually make 50 -100 drops at a time and use the 30p tubing. I cut the 30p tubing 50 or 100 to the length of 32 in. then i do one end at a time. I dip the tubing into the hot water that i've boiled and do all the spouts then I dip the other end and do all the t's, but I don't boil my spouts or my t's. I haven't had any vacuum leaks or problems doing it this way.

[Maple Hill Sugarhouse]

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[oldemaple]

It's also a good idea to carry a thermos full of hot water out into the sugarbush when you're getting ready to tap. If you break a line when tapping, it's a lot easier to connect the line to a tee when you've warmed the line first.

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

That's a great idea. I was out putting up lines today and repairing squirrel damage and I was thinking I needed some way to have good hot water, never thought of a thermos! Great :idea: :idea: :D

[oldemaple]

Brandon,
It's a good idea to have a stainless steel thermos though. They bounce better without breaking. :oops: