SS tanks

[DocsMapleSyrup]

I have the chance to buy a non-working (compressor shot) 500 gal SS off brand tank with flat top with lids in good condition for $750 and a 250 gal tank in good working condition (compressor cools) for $300. I really am looking to get the 500 gal for my 150-200 tap operation. I'd appreciate some thoughts. Thanks

[motowbrowne]

My thoughts are that the price is pretty good on the 250 gallon tank, and a little high on the 500. Personally, I wouldn't want a 500 for 200 taps. 2 250 gallon tanks would be much better. In an ideal world, you'll empty one tank completely and rinse it before refilling. With two tanks, you can collect fresh sap while cooking the old stuff. If you have one big tank for 200 taps, you'll either never fill it, or you'll be adding fresh sap to stuff that's getting old and needs to be cooked ASAP. Does that make sense?

[BreezyHill]

buy both...300 for your head tank and 500 for the collection tank. $1.5 per gallon is a good price in todays market for that size.

I prefer the flat top tanks for ease of cleaning between runs.

Cooling tank is great for those days that you get some sap and want to wati to boil or if you are running an RO and want to batch from the collection tank. And lets not forget those warm end of season days that you could have nice sap if you could keep it cool until boiling in the evening.

If the budget does not allow both tanks then get the one the budget can handle. I would grab the cooling tank first. This is worth the $300 and the cost of having a person collect the coolant and recharge the system for you.

[maple flats]

The tank that can cool is by far the best one, but find a way to get both. If you grow to the point where you get an RO, being able to cool the concentrate is huge. I wish I had one.
My last season before I got my RO I had to sell almost 1200 gal of sap because I could not keep up and my 3 tanks were full, while we were boiling 18-21 hr. days. The producer I sold it to, from Sat-Mon. of 1 weekend, concentrated it to 8% and pumped it to a working "milk" tank. There he cooled it to 30 degrees and held it for his Maple Weekend the following Sat-Sun. Even after that length of time at 30 degrees, he still made Medium Amber with it. That impressed me on the advantage of a working "milk" tank. If I ever get a chance to pick up a used one, I'll jump on the deal before anyone else does if I get the chance. As Breezy Says, having 2 tanks minimum is good in itself, to rotate the tanks and always put new sap in a clean tank.

[DocsMapleSyrup]

Here are photos of the two tanks. The 250 gallon supposedly cools, the 500 gallon does not. The 250 is a DeLaval (sp), but does not have a stainless exterior. I think I could get them for $900-$950 for the pair. Additional thoughts? My wife is looking at me cross eyed.

[motowbrowne]

My thoughts are the same. Get the 250 gallon, skip the big one. Buy another tank in the 150-300 gallon range.

[DocsMapleSyrup]

What a bummer. The dairy supply place that had the 250 gal tank that was supposed to work, had it gone through by one of his people and found out the compressor is shot and that repairing the compressor may run into some big money. Up to $2K-$3K. I ended up passing on the tank. I possibly could get it for $200, but would like all stainless if I'm going to buy a non-working cooling bulk tank.

[maple flats]

even a non working SS 250 tank in non working condition will usually be $250-375, $200 is great especially if you have the lids.

[GeneralStark]

That is a good price...It may be worth pricing out some rounds bottom CDL SS sap tanks. I have been pretty impressed with their tank prices recently.

Bulk tanks are great but if you do not have a tractor they are a pain to move around, especially if you are using one as a head tank inside a sugarhouse.

[wiam]

From Bascom's 2016 catalog. CDL 230 gallon $662. You can't buy a new poly tank for $1/ gallon. I will agree with General that milk tanks can be a hassle if you don't have means to move.

[Mark]

You can build a 6000 gallon tank for less than $2500.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xc_J2ZETqzk

[Maple Man 85]

Mark would you happen to know the folks that built the tanks? Just wondering where I could find a materials list and blue prints.

Maple Man 85

[Mark]

That is my son and I. We had no plans, just look at a tank and build one.

Mark would you happen to know the folks that built the tanks? Just wondering where I could find a materials list and blue prints.

Maple Man 85

[GeneralStark]

From Bascom's 2016 catalog. CDL 230 gallon $662. You can't buy a new poly tank for $1/ gallon. I will agree with General that milk tanks can be a hassle if you don't have means to move.

Wow Bascom's takes a serious mark up.

[Maple Man 85]

Thanks Mark, not tough to build just some time and a lot of welding, cutting and measuring. Based on the prices I am building my own!!!

[WMF]

That looks like 20 or 22 gauge stainless based on how it flexes. Butt welding many linear feet of thin stainless is not as easy as some people think. If you use heavier stainless it will weld easier but will be much harder, heavier and more expensive to work with.
Larger size factory tanks can be had for around a dollar a gallon and are a bargain at that price unless you have serious fab skills and the brake, tig and tools needed to put it together.

[n8hutch]

Personally if I was building a big tank like that I wouldn't but weld it, I would either make the end piece a quarter inch longer or set it inside the 2 end a quarter inch, then you have a nice corner/ overlap to fill . Yeah it may not look as good as a polished up pro made tank, but it will be rugged for sure.

[PerryFamily]

Would there be a difference in cost, strength...... If you soldered the tank with lead free solder?
Obviously it wouldn't be as pretty but to some of us I'm assuming fuction over flash is ok.

[BAP]

The early stainless steel tanks made by sugaring manufacturers were soldered. If you moved the tanks around much or they weren't supported well on the ground when frost was coming out the solder would crack and leak. Some manufacturers like CDL are making tanks cheaper by using thinner stainless steel, but in larger tanks there is issues with stainless steel buckling when they are moved around.

[DocsMapleSyrup]

Well, I took Motowbrowne, BreezyHill and Maple Flats advice and purchased the 250 gallon DeLaval bulk tank. Thanks. There is not a valve on the end of the outlet, two lids need to be found, and the thermometer on the front of the D250 doesn't read correctly. Any idea where a guy can get parts? Also, I have been searching the web for an exploded view of the tank to see what it looks like under the outer skin. I have not had any luck. Any ideas where I could find a diagram like this? I ended up getting it for $200 so I'm satisfied for the price. Any help would be appreciated.

[motowbrowne]

Nice work. That's worth $200 easily. Personally, I'd find some cookware lids at Goodwill or another thrift store and forget about the thermometer. Also, finding the valve will be easy. Mind you, I didn't say "cheap", but it won't be hard. You need to measure the size of the pipe that comes out of the tank. It looks like standard dairy tri-clamp stuff to me. It's probably 1.25". Then you'll need a clamp and a valve, and probably another little piece with a flange that will then go to whatever tubing or pipe you want to run to your rig. I can take a picture of my setup ladder today if you want. Mine also tees off to a piece of 5/16 tubing for a sight gauge. I'd recommend looking for used parts. Try eBay maybe. Otherwise, try a dairy supply place.

[wiam]

Nice work. That's worth $200 easily. Personally, I'd find some cookware lids at Goodwill or another thrift store and forget about the thermometer. Also, finding the valve will be easy. Mind you, I didn't say "cheap", but it won't be hard. You need to measure the size of the pipe that comes out of the tank. It looks like standard dairy tri-clamp stuff to me. It's probably 1.25". Then you'll need a clamp and a valve, and probably another little piece with a flange that will then go to whatever tubing or pipe you want to run to your rig. I can take a picture of my setup ladder today if you want. Mine also tees off to a piece of 5/16 tubing for a sight gauge. I'd recommend looking for used parts. Try eBay maybe. Otherwise, try a dairy supply place.

New triclamp parts from China are very cheap on eBay.

[wiam]

Are there threads on the outside? If there are then it is not triclamp. And parts will be a little pricier. I put a fernco over the threads with the clamp back on the smooth part. Has worked fine for 8 years.

[n8hutch]

I have the same exact tank. I think you will find that the cooling portion was in the bottom center of the tank extending outward towards the ends but not going up the sides of the tank at all. It is visible on mine with the lid open. Cooling of the milk was achieved by a motor and stirring device that kept the milk moving over the "cooling plate" the motor would have been mounted to the lid on the visible studs. If you are hoping to repair the unit to keep the sap cold I think you will be hard pressed to get it to work effectively w/of something to keep the sap moving over that cold spot.

The cooling unit was hacked off the tank I have so I can't really help you there.

I haven't mounted a valve on mine yet but will most likely get a threaded plastic valve of similar size and use alot of thread tape if necessary. The pipe size gets significantly smaller after the threaded portion.

[BAP]

You ought to be able to find a dairy equipment dealer in MN or WI that has some used parts that fit your tank. De Laval is still a major dairy equipment manufacturer so you should be able to find what you need.

[Bucket Head]

The agitator (electric motor and paddle) needs to be operational for proper cooling. Without the liquid moving you'll get ice forming on the bottom of the tank.

[lpakiz]

In regard to a previous post, if the fitting coming out of your tank has coarse, external threads, it is probably what is called a 1 1/2" bevel seat fitting. I don't think it is 1 1/4.
The other most common one is a 1 1/2 " Tri-Clover, which is also called a Sanitary fitting.

[maple flats]

If it is the coarse thread, you can find valves or adapters at Dairy supply stores. They offer adapters in plastic that screw on and give you a spout to clamp a plastic tube to. I once got one that had 1" and 1.5" in the same spout, just cut off the reduced part for the 1.5". I've also bought new SS valves online from Hamby Dairy Supply and partsdepotonline.com. I also, for the clamp on (sanitary seal type) had a place that sells german made aftermarket valves but the name escapes me at the moment. If you use a ball valve it can burst if the ball freezes when closed, a butterfly valve usually won't be damaged if frozen.

[DocsMapleSyrup]

motowbrowne

Nice work. That's worth $200 easily.

Thanks!

wiam

Are there threads on the outside? If there are then it is not triclamp. And parts will be a little pricier. I put a fernco over the threads with the clamp back on the smooth part. Has worked fine for 8 years.

There are threads. Thanks for the fernco idea!

n8hutch

I have the same exact tank. I think you will find that the cooling portion was in the bottom center of the tank extending outward towards the ends but not going up the sides of the tank at all. It is visible on mine with the lid open. Cooling of the milk was achieved by a motor and stirring device that kept the milk moving over the "cooling plate" the motor would have been mounted to the lid on the visible studs.

You are exactly right. I do have the motor and paddle. I'm hoping to check it out this weekend. More to come....

maple flats

If it is the coarse thread, you can find valves or adapters at Dairy supply stores. They offer adapters in plastic that screw on and give you a spout to clamp a plastic tube to. I once got one that had 1" and 1.5" in the same spout, just cut off the reduced part for the 1.5". I've also bought new SS valves online from Hamby Dairy Supply and partsdepotonline.com. I also, for the clamp on (sanitary seal type) had a place that sells german made aftermarket valves but the name escapes me at the moment. If you use a ball valve it can burst if the ball freezes when closed, a butterfly valve usually won't be damaged if frozen.

lpakiz

In regard to a previous post, if the fitting coming out of your tank has coarse, external threads, it is probably what is called a 1 1/2" bevel seat fitting. I don't think it is 1 1/4.
The other most common one is a 1 1/2 " Tri-Clover, which is also called a Sanitary fitting.

Thanks Flats and Ipakiz.

The photo attached shows the attachment coming out of the tank. The outer diameter is 2", the inner diameter is 1.25" but it has the beveled inside edge, so would this then be considered 1.5" for a fitting or coupler? Thanks to all who responded!!!

14424

[Bucket Head]

Yes, it's called 1 1/2", with the beveled seat, with sanitary thread. Their not cheap, but they do make adapters that go from the sanitary thread to standard pipe thread- and it would be a one-time purchase. That way you can go to any plumbing supply and outfit it. Although stainless steel fittings/valves may not be offered at your closest plumbing source. That tank was a good investment!
Steve

[DocsMapleSyrup]

Bucket Head


Yes, it's called 1 1/2", with the beveled seat, with sanitary thread. Their not cheap, but they do make adapters that go from the sanitary thread to standard pipe thread- and it would be a one-time purchase. That way you can go to any plumbing supply and outfit it. Although stainless steel fittings/valves may not be offered at your closest plumbing source. That tank was a good investment!

Thanks Bucket Head! Good info!

[DocsMapleSyrup]

I hate to ring back the thread, but, I ended up with two tanks. One is a 250 gallon the second a 375 gallon. Neither are working, but I only paid $0.80/gallon for both tanks. I just want to say thanks to those who posted above and said two tanks would be better than one. Thank you for your advice and wisdom.