Food grade float system

[Ohissa ridge maple]

Hi there,

I have a 2 by 2 flat pan on a propane fired stand and I am looking to make a float system for it. I am considering adding a side pan for the float. Any more ideas? What plumbing would I need?

Thanks

[Marvel26]

I have a stainless 'box' I welded together....box is a nice term for it as I didn't have a brake to bend it. The valve is a brass float valve and I have a copper tank ball which I purchased new and cleaned thoroughly.

Just an FYI, I have found that the float valve is inconsistent which makes syrup production in my 2X5 hybrid difficult. What happens is the valve, which I clean often, sticks when I draw off then all of a sudden it let's go and sap RUSHES in which kills everything and I have to boil for hours to get the gradient back.

[Z/MAN]

I have a stainless 'box' I welded together....box is a nice term for it as I didn't have a brake to bend it. The valve is a brass float valve and I have a copper tank ball which I purchased new and cleaned thoroughly.

Just an FYI, I have found that the float valve is inconsistent which makes syrup production in my 2X5 hybrid difficult. What happens is the valve, which I clean often, sticks when I draw off then all of a sudden it let's go and sap RUSHES in which kills everything and I have to boil for hours to get the gradient back.

I have the same float setup and had the same problem. There is too much play in the pivot point on the valve. It allows the float ball to move up and down without opening or closing the valve. I drilled the pivot hole on the valve and float arm bigger and found a bolt to fit tight in the hole and the float arm and eliminate the play. The float system now works excellent and I can boil for hours without adjusting anything. The valve is hooked up to a preheater pan and the float rests in the flat pan. Although the float sits right in the boiling sap it does not bounce because of the round shape of the float.