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Bricklayer
03-26-2016, 09:08 AM
Just getting my parts list together for my next project. I'm building an auto draw off with stack temp monitor and alarm. I've been able to find all parts at auberins. I've read all posts here on auto draws and have come to the conclusion that an electric ball valve is the way to go. I found this one on Amazon. Seems to be what I'm looking for. It opens and closes slowly and auto returns with power loss. Temp ratings are within syrup temps. And it has a plug already wired on it. No screwing around with connectors or having to extend the leads. If I need more cord I use an extension cord. Let me know what you guys think. Has anybody ever used this valve?

http://amzn.com/B00WDVOW7Q

Urban Sugarmaker
03-26-2016, 09:20 AM
I've read all posts here on auto draws and have combo the conclusion that an electric ball valve isn't the way to go.

Did you mean to say that an electric ball valve IS the way to go? The link you posted to Amazon is a motorized ball valve (electric). It looks like it should work fine although I have heard people have had issues with the capacitance closure mechanism. Mine looks almost identical to this but it is power-open/power-closed instead of power-open/capacitor-closed. I think the problems stem from not closing all the way especially when niter and sticky sugar start to build up. You might consider just getting the valve Smoky Lake sells with their draw offs. It's more expensive than the one you're looking at but it's power open/power closed and comes with a nice log cord, plug, and jack. Everything you need and easy to hook up to your PID controller.

I think Marcland sells a similar valve but I was not impressed with the price for it at Bascom. You could also contact Marcland. He knows that people home-build these and I'm sure he would sell the part to you directly.

Bricklayer
03-26-2016, 09:34 AM
Sorry yes what I meant to say was electric ball valve is the way to go. I was just worried about the whole power loss issue. If this valve loses power it closes. Power on power off valves do not close with power loss do they?

Urban Sugarmaker
03-26-2016, 12:26 PM
You are correct. A valve that powers closed will not close without current applied. I can't say that I ever considered a loss of power to be risk. You will want to have a "throttle" valve to restrict some of the flow going to the auto draw valve. This way you can slow down the rate at which syrup is drawing off and adjust it to your liking. It's also your fail-safe if the valve were to malfunction. I also have a third valve which I can use to manually draw off and as a fail-safe if the auto valve does not open or clogs.

Bricklayer
03-26-2016, 02:19 PM
I've got an 1 1/4" draw off port. I was planning on going with a 1 1/4" throttle valve then a T then down to 3/4" then elbow pointing down then electric ball valve. Same thing on other side of T with a manual ball valve.

maple flats
03-26-2016, 08:16 PM
On my 3x8 I essentially have the same as the post above except all 3 valves are 1", it works well.

mellondome
03-26-2016, 10:33 PM
You might consider just getting the valve Smoky Lake sells with their draw offs. It's more expensive than the one you're looking at but it's power open/power closed and comes with a nice log cord, plug, and jack.

Smoky Lake valves are also capacitor close. This is powered close with stored energy, not via the power cord/pid. The only time you will have an issue with them is if you cycle open/closed frequently. The capacitor only charges while the valve is powered open.

lpakiz
03-26-2016, 10:51 PM
melon dome,
I'm pretty sure Jim changed to a 3-wire power closed valve which also has the capacitor close feature.

Urban Sugarmaker
03-26-2016, 11:00 PM
Smoky Lake valves are also capacitor close. This is powered close with stored energy, not via the power cord/pid. The only time you will have an issue with them is if you cycle open/closed frequently. The capacitor only charges while the valve is powered open.

I think SL started with capacitor close valves, but when I built my draw off I talked to Jim on the phone, and he sold me what he changed over to, which is the power-open/power-close valve. It has 3 wires. This was in late 2014 or early 2015 just before the season.

mellondome
03-28-2016, 09:03 PM
Mine is an early build SL drawoff.

lpakiz
03-28-2016, 11:34 PM
Mellondome,
Yes, Jim started with a power open, capacitor closed valve. When he switched to a power AND capacitor closed valve, he had to upgrade the wiring in the controller from 2 wires to 3.
Not absolutely positive, but he might be willing to upgrade your unit. Call him after you're done with it this season.

Bricklayer
11-26-2016, 10:26 AM
I've got an 1 1/4" draw off port. I was planning on going with a 1 1/4" throttle valve then a T then down to 3/4" then elbow pointing down then electric ball valve. Same thing on other side of T with a manual ball valve.

I'm still trying to figure out what the best way to do this setup is. I have an 1 1/4" draw of port on my evaporator. I would like to get it down to 3/4". Going down to 1/2" seems like nitre would build up a little faster. Where is the best spot to reduce it to 3/4". In my opinion the reducing should come on the downslope, keep the tee off the evap 1 1/4" then 1 1/4 street 90 then reducing bushing to 3/4" then nipple then ball valve. Only problem with that many 1 1/4" fittings is it weighs like 10 lbs. might be an issue

Bricklayer
11-30-2016, 07:23 PM
Just wondering if I will have an issue going from 1 1/4" down to 3/4". Will reducing that much cause nitre to build up in the reducer? Or should I just reduce it to 1" and use 1" for everything?

Haynes Forest Products
01-17-2017, 11:49 PM
Bricklayer I would avoid Horizontal plumbing that reduces down to much. I had niter flake/scale jam up against the reducer slowing the flow to the point of disaster. I went to draw off and it wasn't coming out. Things started to get crazy with the syrup getting crazy thick and large bubbles forming and the syrup wont come out. Thank god I fire with oil so a flip of a switch and I could clean it out.

Bricklayer
01-18-2017, 06:00 AM
I ended up reducing from 1 1/4" to 1" and that's it. 1 1/4" throttle valve 1 1/4" - 1" reducer. 1" sanitary union, 1" tee, 2 1" street 90 then mech valve and on other side of tee a 1" ball valve. Same setup as the kit smoky lake sells.