View Full Version : Is a ramp in a 2x5 evaporator necessary?
jsk syrup
03-01-2016, 08:12 AM
I'm building a evaporator out of an oil barrel. Is the ramp on the backside of the firebox necessary in a small Evaporator like this? I don't know how to weld so a guy is doing it for me and the partition at the back of the firebox actually leans towards the door an inch or two from top to bottom should we cut the welds and kick it back some? Any other advice on an oil barrel evaporator would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for the help.
Tater
03-01-2016, 08:51 AM
Are you using a flat pan? Flue pans absorb a tremendous amount of heat, so it is important to keep the "ramp" right up next to the flues. However, I think it is less necessary on a flat pan, especially with forced draft. Some efficiency might be lost, but I don't think it is significant. With dry wood, a clean pan (inside and out), forced draft, and low sap level, we have pushed our 2x4 flat pan over 12gph for 7 hours. We have a 2x4 firebox (no ramp). We just fire at one end and let 'er boil.
maple flats
03-01-2016, 07:04 PM
Maybe shorter pans may boil OK without a ramp, I think it wise to have some sort of ramp for any woodfired evaporator. Think of a ramp as a funnel, channeling the intense heat up to the bottom of the pan or flues. It is simply more efficient to have one, otherwise you will need to burn more wood to get the same boil.
dadtkm
03-01-2016, 10:11 PM
I have an evaporator made from a 275 GAL. fuel oil tank. I put the ramp in mine because they all have them. I built a fire and watched, the flame was forced by the ramp to the bottom of the pan. I agree with maple flats, without the ramp I think a bigger fire would be needed to get the same boil.
Tater
03-01-2016, 11:28 PM
If I were building an arch, I would put the ramp in. I suspect it is at least slightly more efficient. But here's what you should do. Go ahead and finish the arch without the ramp and use it. Once you have figured out all the tweaks to maximize it, see eaxctly how fast it boils and how much wood it uses. Then put the ramp in and see how things change. Then you can be a member of the exclusive MapleTrader team known as the Scientifically Unorthodox Geniuses And Researchers (aka SUGAR).
Woody77
03-02-2016, 05:52 PM
Jsk I have the same type of setup have used it sence 1996 . Im in elsie mi an hour and a half south of you .call ot text 517-seven1 9 -6two35 for pictures or questions I have made so many changes to get where I'm at . If you want to waste time and make the same mistakes i did I fully understand. But if not give me a jungle.
Hunt4sap
03-02-2016, 06:56 PM
How necessary is it to cut the top of the barrel out to expose the bottom of the pan to direct flames?
My new barrel burners gph was only 2.
I wanted to see how it did w/o it cut out( big letdown)
Now i know i need to cut out, but where, and how big to make hole in top of barrel?
cut the holes almost the size of the pans. the more flame on the pans, the better the gph. just make sure the heat doesnt warp or bend the material left to hold the pans, otherwise some angle iron re-enforcement may be needed.
Hunt4sap
03-03-2016, 09:43 AM
My ss pan is 20" by 48".
So, should i cut entire top of barrel out and then try to seal all openings up?
The pan is a foot longer then the barrel, but i couldnt pass it up for free...
Im thinkin maybe for next run I'll just cut a 1/4 of top out or so and see how that works.
I tried using a blower in draft opening, but it seamed to be blowing flames up and out chimney, my pan temp dropped and chimney got wayyy too hot.
Its all experimental, but alot of fun.
I have to cut top of barrel b/c my dry wood supply wont hold up to how inaffeciant it worked with it not cut out to expose bottom of ss pan to direct flames...
Any thought welcome and appreciated.
not 100% on this but,if you can extend your chimney off the back a bit, you could have your ss pan hang over the front and back by about 6 inches each to accomadate the pan. you wont have flame on the exposed 6 inches on either end but you should be able to maintain the boil. as for flames out the chimney, cut back on your air input from the blower some. if your air was "under"the fire you would have better success. when you have the blower at the rear it pushes the fire laterally rather than up to the pan.
smokeyamber
03-08-2016, 10:10 AM
Quick tip on extending the arch, cut the top of the tank off, then use it to extend the arch by attaching it to the back. I think there are pictures on the forum of this trick. On the ramp idea, the easiest ramp is made with vermiculite, get it at a garden center. fill the bottom of the arch with it and shape it however you want , just cover it with scrap metal to keep it from blowing away.... I use it still on my dryer arch and love the flexibility to tune the gap to the pan. You will find as you experiment that getting the fire close to the pan is the key :D I would also suggest you make an angle iron frame to sit the pan on and attach it to the top of the cut tank.
Have fun and hope it runs well for you !
psparr
03-08-2016, 12:09 PM
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