View Full Version : Boiling problem
peterjd89
02-29-2016, 06:47 PM
My first year with a big arch I've got a 3 by 12 and I'm having a hard time keeping it a boil I'm pushing 400 cfms in the aof that will get there with the draft door open I have a 14 in stack by 20 feet long it's not getting hot at all the only thing I can think is I need a blower on the auf and my wood isn't the driest any suggestions would be great also I'm about an inch above the flues and 2 and a half deep in the pan
leaky bucket
02-29-2016, 07:19 PM
Peter. Dry wood for a traditionial arch Is a must. What size is it Split? Split it small I mean small 2" x2" max and fire often every 2 min or so . a tip when firing/loading only open 1 door at a time and have wood in hand give it a minute then load the other side .
Some sryrup makers use a egg timer \ glass to time the firing. Pans that size need a lot of wood keep the heat to it and you will do fine.
Mike
maple flats
02-29-2016, 07:33 PM
Without dry wood you will never get as good of a boil. First the wood must be split wrist sized, then you need more stack, 2x the evaporator is where to start, unless you have forced air under the fire. When you say you have 400 CFM AOF, what kind of blower is it? If it is a squirrel cage you would be better off blowing it under the fire. If you add 2 or maybe even 4 more feet on the stack it will help. If the AOF blower is a High Pressure blower. Also, 1" over the flues is OK but reduce the level in the syrup pan to 1.5". After you get comfortable with that, reduce it to 1.25 and finally down to 1". In the flue pan, I only run 1/2" over the flues. On my 3x8 I have 18' of stack and I have both hi pressure AOF and AUF, my wood has dried over 2 years, is split wrist size and it boils like crazy.
If you don't have AUF you must have the extra stack. If you had proper AUF then the 20' would probably be enough.
When you burn wet wood, the fire must first dry the wood. While it is drying the steam off the wood will hold the temps down, non pressurized steam is much cooler than you need for a good boil. If you have no other option than the wood you have, try splitting it even finer, then add less when you fuel but fuel more often. You should only fill the firebox 2/3 full, leave the space above it. Good luck!
Russell Lampron
02-29-2016, 07:47 PM
If I'm reading this correctly you have forced air over the fire but not under the fire. You need forced air under the fire too. A 3x12 evaporator should be able to burn larger than wrist size pieces of wood with ease. I burn bigger stuff than that in my 2x6 and it just disappears. I have forced air under the fire only. Dry wood is also very important to get the most heat out it but if your wood isn't dry splitting it smaller is one solution.
peterjd89
02-29-2016, 09:02 PM
The blower I put on it is a electric leaf blower with adjustable air flow ig ill get one tomorrow for the auf but you guys nailed on the head with the dry wood once again everyone advise is greatly appreciated
peterjd89
02-29-2016, 09:04 PM
The wood is to big and I was putting too much in and the pans were to deep
Russell Lampron
03-01-2016, 06:13 AM
The wood is to big and I was putting too much in and the pans were to deep
That's one of the things I remember from when I boiled without a blower. To get a hot fire I only filled the firebox about 2 layers deep over the grates. More than that would slow the boil.
eustis22
03-01-2016, 08:14 AM
>To get a hot fire I only filled the firebox about 2 layers deep over the grates. More than that would slow the boil.
How?
peterjd89
03-01-2016, 06:58 PM
I got dry wood and another leaf blower for the bottom and it was like I split an atom thanks for all help
Sinzibuckwud
03-01-2016, 07:18 PM
>To get a hot fire I only filled the firebox about 2 layers deep over the grates. More than that would slow the boil.
How?
can't speak for Russell, I have noticed this with my evaporator
It's an air intake problem for me, the stove cannot get enough air to burn all the wood at once, unless I open the door, so the wood on top deflects the flames and doesn't really burn hot until it gets closer to the coals.
smaller stacks loaded frequently burn all at once and produce an even flame to the whole pan.
Just how my homemade rig works...for now:)
Russell Lampron
03-02-2016, 06:20 AM
>To get a hot fire I only filled the firebox about 2 layers deep over the grates. More than that would slow the boil.
How?
can't speak for Russell, I have noticed this with my evaporator
It's an air intake problem for me, the stove cannot get enough air to burn all the wood at once, unless I open the door, so the wood on top deflects the flames and doesn't really burn hot until it gets closer to the coals.
smaller stacks loaded frequently burn all at once and produce an even flame to the whole pan.
Just how my homemade rig works...for now:)
That's the reason right there. My factory made evaporator was the same way. It got plenty of draft but produced more heat with less wood. I had to fire more often but made syrup quicker using this method.
eustis22
03-02-2016, 08:58 AM
Ima try this my next boil..I usually just cram it in until it reaches the bottom of the paN
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