Welding stainless

[Everhard]

Hello all, I'm hoping to upgrade my 4 pan 2x4 setup by making my own pans. My burning question is: Do I need to be concerned about any food grade issues with doing my own welding using a stick welder using 308L rod? (Let's just assume for arguments sake I can stick weld well enough to make a finished product that won't have holes.) Is there anything I need to do once I've got it welded up?

Thanks,
E.

[MaxJ]

Using the 308L should be fine providing you can weld it up. Tig welding would be a better option if possible.

[Big_Eddy]

It's a big assumption that you (or anyone) would be able to weld thin stainless suitable for maple with a stick welder. However assuming you can - then you will need to back gas to prevent sugaring. ( not maple sugaring :) )

[esetter]

For what its worth. I have been welding / fabricating for 18 years . I have worked fab shops doing food grade products and I have worked on mining equipment in the west. Tig is pretty much the standard welding used in food industry operations. Thats not to say that mig and stick isn't. They are mostly used n the structural welding and tig is usually used where the product touches the metal. Now , stick is a little more difficult on the thinner gauges but can be done. Welds to be deemed ''sanitary'' must be complete and smooth ( no ridges or crevices for bacteria to hide). Weld both sides and buff , don't grind but buff / polish it smooth. One thing to consider too is that the boiling will help sanitize. and yes 308 , 316L rods will work. I suggest 3/32 so you can weld at lower amperage.

[esetter]

I agree with Eddy , back purging is best. You can also clamp brass or aluminum to the back side to absorb heat. I used to weld some really thin stainless parts for the commercial heating and cooling industry. I always welded them on a 3/4 inch block of aluminum , no sugar , great color. This will work on corner welds but you gotta know what you are doing. I recommend making your pan , breaking the corners instead of complete welded fab will reduce welds. If you are able to do it on a press break , there will be 4 welds per pan. Id pay someone to tig them. Not as expensive as you might think.

[Everhard]

Thanks all for the replies. Frankly the only reason I'm using stick is because that's what I have. I've done some small test welds on stainless scraps and didn't find it too difficult. I plan on doing some more trials before I attempt making my pans. I'd love to have a tig welder but that's an additional expense I don't need at the moment. Much appreciate the tips and tricks!
Thanks again, E.

[wiam]

I just had a preheater welded up by a local shop for my 3x12. I supplied materials and it was all cut/drilled. He only charged me $200. I'm not saying don't try it yourself, just letting you know of options.

[blurr95]

You could get a dry torch tig setup for your stick welder. I don't know how much they are, but it's another option.

Jason

[Everhard]

Given the forecasted weather it looks like the sap will be flowing very soon, sooner then I'd be able to get the new pans made - I don't want to rush the process as I want them to turn out as good as I can possibly do. Having said that I'll continue experimenting with my welder and welding stainless, if I don't feel I can make it work then I'll look into getting a tig welder. I don't do a massive amount of welding but it wouldn't go to waste either.
Blurr95 - I'll check out a dry torch tig setup - I'm not familiar with that.

Agreed I could take it to some one to weld it up for me but I want the satisfaction of making it myself. I'm sure everyone here can understand that! :) I'll get it figured out and when I do finally get them made up I'll post pictures of the process.

E.

[blurr95]

Given the forecasted weather it looks like the sap will be flowing very soon, sooner then I'd be able to get the new pans made - I don't want to rush the process as I want them to turn out as good as I can possibly do. Having said that I'll continue experimenting with my welder and welding stainless, if I don't feel I can make it work then I'll look into getting a tig welder. I don't do a massive amount of welding but it wouldn't go to waste either.
Blurr95 - I'll check out a dry torch tig setup - I'm not familiar with that.

Agreed I could take it to some one to weld it up for me but I want the satisfaction of making it myself. I'm sure everyone here can understand that! :) I'll get it figured out and when I do finally get them made up I'll post pictures of the process.

E.
It's called a dry torch because there is no coolant flow through it. It just hooks up to the leads on your stick welder and has a hose for your gas. The one I got was made by Weldcraft, I believe. I got it from my job, one of the foremans decided they didn't need it and gave it to me, brand new still in the box, and it's still that way. I have never used it. I do all my welding in the shop I work at, so I don't know what one costs.

Jason

[lpakiz]

I believe you need a DC welder for TIG work. Many ""buzz boxes" are AC only.

[esetter]

AC is used when TIG welding aluminum. If you use the dry torch , also known as ''air cooled'' you will need to do the scratch start method. Since there will be no remote ( foot pedal or finger switch) like on a normal TIG machine , you will use the arc made from the tungsten getting close enough to the grounded base metal. You can you tube this. The only dis advantage will be the lack of heat control and setting up your gas flow. It can be done though. This is under the assumption that your machine isn't a stick/tig. And is a stick only.