Can a bad tap hole be fixed?

[Geroldn]

I was tapping today and broke a couple of 5/16 taps due to the cold. I drilled the broken tip out, cut off the other half and put a new tap on the drop line. The problem I had was that the hole is too big and the new tap wouldn't seat. I finally decided to drill a new hole directly below the bad one and hopefuly catch the sap as it rises and not have a hole that is just running. Putting in a 7/16 tap and bucket are not an option. Any other ideas?

[saphound]

Wondering why a 7/16 tap isn't an option. I have some of both and they both take the same 5/16 tubing. :confused:

[markcasper]

You broke the plastic spile or drill bit? I would NOT have drilled another hole! Being that you drilled another hole and the damage is done, just tap it in. You will get reduced flow because of two tapholes that close. I would have just moved on and left that tree. If your breaking spiles because its that cold, then I wouldn't have been out there......STOP! Sorry if I'm sounding blunt, I realize its learning and I was there once too.

I'm wondering if you maybe tapped them in too hard? I have never heard of plastic spouts breaking because of it being too cold.

[psparr]

I've broken a few. If you hit it a little off the polycarbonate ones are a little brittle. What works is find a screw with threads that will fit the inside of the tap. Screw it in a little and pry the tap out with a hammer.

[SeanD]

Don't beat yourself up. Plenty of people tap before the thaw. The same thing happened to me last year and it was 35 degrees and the taps were warm in my pocket. Some of those new clear taps shatter easily. I had another dozen or more break when I was taking them out after the season.

You're fine with the new hole. Twenty+ years from now when you come back around to that spot on the tree, you'll never know what's under there. Besides, what's worse - reduce flow for one season or cutting in a straight connector to where your drop was so you're system is air tight again (and getting no sap at all from that tree) then next year cutting out the connector and putting a new drop back in?

Actually, you've reminded me I should keep a drywall screw in my pocket just in case it happens to again!

Sean

[markcasper]

Besides, what's worse - reduce flow for one season or cutting in a straight connector to where your drop was so you're system is air tight again (and getting no sap at all from that tree) then next year cutting out the connector and putting a new drop back in?


Sean

I disagree, he could have a major reduction in vacuum on everything on this line. In other words....using that taphole could be a major loss of vacuum. You'll have to try it and see, but you'll know right away when the sap starts running and if there is a leak there. In that case, it'd be better to cap the spout off and not lose vacuum on the rest. Sean...your right in that its not the end of the world, nothing is perfect, just pointing out that its ok to abandon this tree for one year in order to not lose vacuum.

[Geroldn]

Drywall screw as a tap extractor, thanks I knew I would get a good idea here. I'd rather not be tapping in 5 degrees either, but I had the day off and tomorrow we're getting snow and freezing rain. Now i'm done tapping and am ready for sap.

[blissville maples]

put a tap in it with no drop and use a plug on end of tap