Delava 74

[Mike's Sugar Shack]

Is this some sort of muffler? I don't understand why it has a check valve.

[mellondome]

Yes, that is the silencer. The check valve keeps the pump from turning backwards when you turn it off.

[Mike's Sugar Shack]

I usually put the check valve on the inlet side. I did not know that you needed to put a check valve on the exhaust.

[mellondome]

Only need one. On inlet side your pump will still roll backwards a little due to the vac in the pump and line to the checkvalve. On the exhaust side it will hold vac in the pump.

[Mike's Sugar Shack]

Guess i have been doing it wrong. I will keep the check valve on the exhaust side then.

[BreezyHill]

Only need one. On inlet side your pump will still roll backwards a little due to the vac in the pump and line to the checkvalve. On the exhaust side it will hold vac in the pump.


Lets think about this for a second.
If there is a check valve on the exhaust side the drippers will be pulling oil into the pump until the entire tubing system is down to 0" or to a point that the oil can not be pulled from the oil cup, reclaimer or source jug. Now on start up of the pump there is oil in the pump that must be compressed and expelled out of the pump...this usually leads to broken veins in the even numbered delaval pumps and bent veins in the 73 & 75 pumps.

The check valve on the inlet side is mandatory in most states to prevent oil from reaching the food section of the system. If oil gets back to the releaser the system is contaminated and must be sanitized.

The purpose that the check provides for a sapper on a exhaust side is the exclusion of animals like bees, mice, rats, birds, etc from building homes in the pump.

Since the fittings are showing the silencer was installed vertically the condensated oil and water would drain back to the pump with out the check valve. Standard installation of a silencer is horizontal and drained periodically to remove the condensated oil and moisture that accumulates.

I would be willing to bet you got this pump for a deal. Great find! now all you need to do is install the parts the correct way and put a oil catch under the outlet of the silencer and you are good to go.

The other idea is to look inside the silencer and see it the holes go all the way down on the internal pipe. If they go half way and then you could use this as a rude reclaimer by brazing a pipe attachment to the bottom side so that the condensate could drain to a filter, with a water separator drain...like a fuel filter off an IH truck with the DT 466 motor. Then you could attach your dripper lines to the filter and recirculate the oil from the pump. Make you dripper lines 18" or longer to cool the oil adequately and you are good to go.

Good Luck!

Ben

[Mike's Sugar Shack]

Ben do you think this pump will be able to go all day and not get to hot with just the oil going to the bearings?

[BreezyHill]

That will depend on how your system is setup and what you will require of the pump.

If your system is tight and nearly leak free then it will get hotter than if it had a vac controller set to allow air to cool the pump. But with higher vac level you will make more syrup that will more than pay for a box fan and the electricity to power it.

I run mine as tight as possible and pull as high a vac as possible. 28+ is the goal. I ran a fan if the pump got over 175 on a noncontact temp gun. NO the fan is on a temp gauge that will turn it on automatically if the temp goes over 175.

If your system has a few leaks then it may not need a fan to keep cool, and as long as they do not surpass the CFMs of the pump then you will not loose production.

IMO a D 74 is a very good pump. I have a 73 and 75 that have done very well for me. 74 is a different style and newer but still has a good track record for sugaring. I have a friend that loves his and it runs all day and night if needed.

[Mike's Sugar Shack]

Ok thanks for the replays. I don't know much about these dairy pumps but i have this one and a 78 so i need to figure them out.

[BreezyHill]

12976

Well here is a pic of two seasons ago and my 75 on left and 73 on the right

74 replaced the 73, 76 replaced the 75 and the 78 is the much larger "big brother" that was on double 6 parlors.
Some farms are even using them on larger numbers now.

For around $10 you can get a digital temp controller off ebay to run a fan in the event the pump gets to hot.

My pumps are up stairs and the digital controller is going down stairs. Provided I ever get the time. We are expanding our feed mill operation and time is short.

Ben

[Mike's Sugar Shack]

Maybe once we get through the season we could get in touch so i can pick your brain about these pumps? I am making plans for a 1000 plus tap sugarbush that i just bought and going to plan to use the 78 there next year.

[BreezyHill]

Send me a pm andI willgive you my contact info.