My Sugar Shack on a budget

[Lethalbowman]

1293512936129371293812939 I started my Sugar Shack last Fall and am now trying to spend every minute I can free up working on it. I started with an old basket ball court and am building my Pole Barn style shack on top of it.

[Lethalbowman]

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[CampHamp]

I hope you can incorporate your palette day-bed into the new facility. :mrgreen:

[Bucket Head]

That'll be a lot nicer than your original set-up! I had an "open-air" shack like that for years. Better with a roof and walls around you. And your chair shouldn't tip over on the concrete floor, lol.

[bigschuss]

Nice job. Looks great.

Got a few questions if you don't mind. I have a 14x18 cement pad that I'd like to build something on in the future like you did. Did you dig down (or use a post hole auger) to get below frost level in your area? Did you backfill with cement? Dirt? Why did you decide to cut out the cement and then set posts in the ground rather than build a stick frame directly on the slab?

Thanks.

[Lethalbowman]

I used a 12" masonary saw to cut each block out where I wanted to put the posts. I then had to did down (using a shovel) and set the post on top of cement pads. Each post was attached to the pads with angle brackets and secure with tap con screws. I have built 3 pole barns and had left over materials so that is how I chose to build the structure. It works well for a pole barn so why not a sugar shack. The shack is approx 12' x 16' with a 6/12 pitch to the roof.

[Lethalbowman]

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We have so many Hurricanes here in Northern Michigan that local building codes tend to go overboard with minimum code requirements! LOL! At least I know that the wind won't blow it over.

[Lethalbowman]

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Many of the materials I am using are being repurposed from other jobs or wherever I have been able to scrounge for them. The windows I am using were part of a bay window assembly that was set out on the road in front of a home makeover. I was very pleased to bring the whole assembly home. Now what will I do with a framed in 4' X 4' picture window? My shack will have a 3' x 4' cupola that will have windows on either side to let some light in when the doors are closed.

[bigschuss]

I used a 12" masonary saw to cut each block out where I wanted to put the posts. I then had to did down (using a shovel) and set the post on top of cement pads. Each post was attached to the pads with angle brackets and secure with tap con screws. I have built 3 pole barns and had left over materials so that is how I chose to build the structure. It works well for a pole barn so why not a sugar shack. The shack is approx 12' x 16' with a 6/12 pitch to the roof.

Thanks. That's great. I've been going back and forth between doing exactly what you did vs. a stick built vs. doing 6x6's ON TOP of the cement and secured with Simson Strong Ties. I've also got a ton of surplus lumber to use.

[Lethalbowman]

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This is what I have been able to finish up so far. The windows are about ready to be inserted and most of the perlin's are now in place. I need to frame in the cupola, attach a few more perlin's to the upper part of the rafters and I can get some metal on the roof. It's going to a stretch to get it all done before sap season but I am at least going to have a roof over my head this year.

[Lethalbowman]

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I spent some quality time outdoors over the weekend working on the shack. I was able to get the Cupola framed in and the rest of the perlins installed so I was able to attach some metal to the roof. It's going to be close but I might just get it wrapped up before the sap beging to flow here in Northern Michigan. I had to go to work today just so that I could rest my aching muscles.

[DMF]

Looking good!

[maplestudent]

it is looking good. and you have visitors too.

[Lethalbowman]

it is looking good. and you have visitors too.

I think you are referring to my 3-D deer target as a visitor. LOL! We do get deer, turkeys & bears in our yard from time to time.

[maplestudent]

I think you are referring to my 3-D deer target as a visitor. LOL! We do get deer, turkeys & bears in our yard from time to time.

Ooooooooooooooooooookay.

Yeah, I was. lol. I thought you had taken the picture from some vantage point.

[Lethalbowman]

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Made real good progress on the shack this weekend. The roof is all most complete now with just a small strip on each side at the back of the shack to be completed. I did finally removed the metal from the side wall window opening and installed the 1st of two windows. I just need to assemble the window flaps for the Cupola and install them and it will be complete. Looks like we are in for a cold snap here that will shut any sap flows down. They are forecasting 1 week of below freezing temps during the day and then we get some good freeze thaw cycles. I will have my taps in before the anticipated flows begin.

[Lethalbowman]

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O'l Man Winter just isn't ready to be done for the season here in northern Michigan as we got the better part of 6" of fresh snow 03/01. At least I have the roof almost done. If I can just finish up the sidewalls before I bring in the evaporator life will be wonderful.

[ronintank]

I added a little lean to roof over my arch onto the back of my pole barn. its 2 sections that I can take down and store till next spring.
At least it keeps the rain and snow out of my pan when boiling.
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[Lethalbowman]

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The sun did come out yesterday and warmed the temps up a bit (about 25 degrees) and it was enough to allow most of that snow to just slide off the roof. Notice how far it landed (7-8') away from the shack. Lesson learned; don't stand to close to the shack if it has a bunch of snow on it or it might just hit you when it slides off.

[Lethalbowman]

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Made major progress on the shack over my 4 day weekend. I just need to finish sealing up the front end and it will be ready to go. I have enough metal to do the upper section but the house wrap on the lower will have to work until funds allow me to purchase the cedar planking I want to finish it with. It's a good thing because the sap has begun to flow here in Northern MI. I collected 25 gallons from my 50 taps yesterday morning. Should be a bunch of full bags today.

[Cedar Eater]

Looking real good, Lethalbowman. I've been following your progress. It pays to keep at it.

[johnpma]

Well done!!

[Lethalbowman]

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It was time to get the "New To Me" evaporator from where I had it stored in my pole barn and move it dawn to the shack. Let me tell you that sucker is heavy! I rigged up a small sled device and with a little help slid it across the driveway and then down the hill to the shack.

[Lethalbowman]

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Once I had it in place and dry fitted to the smoke stack it was time to rebuild the firebox. I had to remove some of the rusted, rotted, twisted metal that the previous owner had rigged up inside of it along with several 1/2 fire bricks. I re-used some of those 1/2 brick along with several of the full size fire bricks that I had lined my block arch with that last couple of years and made what I think will be an even more efficient furnace. I guess time will tell.

[maplestudent]

I like your sled idea.

It's looking good!

[js4fn]

I'm scared for your black pipe to the tin strapping specially the top at the elbow


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[Lethalbowman]

I am not sure what "tin strapping" you are referring to? The connections are all stainless steel

I'm scared for your black pipe to the tin strapping specially the top at the elbow


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[js4fn]

The black stove pipe inside where goes through the wall

18" clearance is safe just watch I have a small stove I Finnish on and black pipe will glow red


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[Lethalbowman]

OK I understand what you are talking about now. I forgot that i was going to use another short piece of the class A insulated pipe that I have to attach to the elbow before I connected the black pipe. Glad you pointed that out, in my haste to get this project done in time for sap season I had forgotten about that. Never to proud to admit when something I have done could be improved upon.

The black stove pipe inside where goes through the wall

18" clearance is safe just watch I have a small stove I Finnish on and black pipe will glow red


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Lethalbowman]

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I found the short section of class A pipe and attached it to the elbow and then attached the black pipe to it. I added a piece of metal flashing to protect the wood gert just in case it still gets hot. I installed the copper tubing pre-heater around the black pipe and then covered it with a piece of galvanized duct that I had. When the fire is burning hot it pre-heats the sap to 125 degrees before it goes into the 1st pan. If I don't want more sap going into the 1st pan I just have it diverted into a 5 gallon bucket so it doesn't start to burn in the tube.

[Lethalbowman]

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With everything re-worked it was time to open the cupola, start a fire in the evaporator and start boiling some sap. It took about 15-20 minutes to get a raging boil going but once it got going the steam sure did pour out of the main pan. By Sunday evening I had finished my 1st 1 1/4 gallon of med-dark amber syrup.

[Lethalbowman]

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Once I had good constant fire things really heated up. The 1st pad heated up enough to just start boiling before it fed into the main pan. Good thing I had windows and a door to open along with a cupola as it started to get rather warm in there as the temps rose into the 50's outside.

[johnpma]

Looks awesome congrats on a great build!!!

Question what is the difference between class a double wall and class a triple wall pipe other than the wall? just cooler running?

[Lethalbowman]

To be honest I am not sure, I know you can get double wall insulated black pipe as I have it on our woodstove in the house and you can almost touch it when the stove is 400 degrees.
Looks awesome congrats on a great build!!!

Question what is the difference between class a double wall and class a triple wall pipe other than the wall? just cooler running?

[BobMac]

I guess its just class A stove pipe,some call it double wall, some call it triple wall.found this explanation

Class A Chimney Pipe

Class A chimney pipe has many names; it can also be referred to as double-wall chimney pipe, triple-wall chimney pipe, all-fuel pipe, or insulated chimney pipe. Class A pipe is used to vent high-temperature exhaust from burning many common fuels such as wood, coal, and oil. Basic examples would include fireplaces, stoves, boilers, and oil-burning furnaces. Not every venting system will require the use of Class A pipe, but it is absolutely necessary for use with all wood-burning fireplaces and stoves.

Class A Chimney PipeClass A chimney pipe is usually UL-listed, which permits various manufacturers' pipe to be used with an even wider variety of manufacturers' fireplaces, stoves, inserts, and furnaces. However, it is important to note that you should never mix-and-match different brands of class A chimney pipe within one chimney system. The different brands of pipe are all distinctly engineered and must be used as a complete system from beginning to end. If you are needing to extend or redesign your current chimney system, you need to determine the make and model of your class A pipe and purchase that same type if at all possible. If it is a discontinued or obsolete brand, you are in the tough spot of having to rebuild your chimney system from scratch. Building codes prohibit the use of any adapters to link different chimney brands. In a chimney system where you are converting stove pipe to class A pipe (see the Stove Pipe section for more details), you may reconfigure your stove pipe system apart from your class A system and vice versa.

There are two types of class A chimney pipe:

Solid-packed chimney. These pipes have smaller inner diameters (usually ranging from 5 inches to 8 inches) that have some insulation, either double-wall (like Simpson Dura-Vent DuraTech pipe) or triple-wall (like Simpson Dura-Vent DuraPlus pipe). These pipes use fiberglass or ceramic insulation to stay cooler on the outside and have a 2 inch clearance to combustibles.
Air-cooled chimney. These pipes have larger inner diameters (usually ranging from 8 inches to 24 inches) that have no insulation. An example of this kind of class A pipe is the FMI chimney pipe that is required for use with FMI and Vantage Hearth manufactured fireplaces. As the name implies, these pipes rely on the air circulating within them to keep the outer wall cooler and also have a 2 inch clearance to combustibles.
When using class A chimney pipe, it is important to know that plenty of money can be saved if you plan your system wisely. Class A pipe is usually manufactured with either a stainless steel outer wall or a galvanized (or galvalume) outer wall. When running class A pipe within a masonry chimney, a chase, an attic or any enclosure inside the home, it is economically wise to use galvanized pipe. If at all possible, it is recommended to install your chimney in the interior of your home. Having your system outside brings with it the risk of a cold chimney, which would hinder drafting and produce more creosote.

The need for stainless steel only arises when your pipe will be exposed to the elements. If galvanized pipe is exposed, it is susceptible to rust and corrosion that will eventually ruin it if left unprotected. If you must use galvanized pipe outside, it is strongly recommended that you paint your pipe with a high temperature, rust-resistant paint. Galvanized piping must be cleaned and prepped, prior to painting.

[Lethalbowman]

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here is some of the finished syrup from my 1st batch of the season. I sure hope the weather cooperates so I can finish off a few more gallons before it all comes to a screeching end.

[BobMac]

looking good,does the evaporator work as well as the previous owner said??
I have a summer place in Mesick been by Grawn many times

[Lethalbowman]

I have only run 65 gallons of sap through it so far and have not been operating it at consistent fire temps so not sure. I hope with the colder temps they are forecasting I can really give it a workout by keeping the sap levels lower in the pans and really feeding the fire.

looking good,does the evaporator work as well as the previous owner said??
I have a summer place in Mesick been by Grawn many times

[Lethalbowman]

We are finally getting the weather that I have been waiting for to get things going again in my Sugar Bush. The temp was 18 frosty degrees this morning. It's looking real good for the next week or so here. I hope to really have the steam billowing out the Cupola a few more times this season.

[Lethalbowman]

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I collected enough sap to start another batch today. I am trying the 3 pan set up the person I bought the evaporator from had been using. It sure does make for a whole lot of steam.

[Lethalbowman]

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It's been a few years since I built my sugar shack and I have been waiting to find the right material for the finishing touches for the front of it. That is until this past summer that is. To make a long story short I had been driving by this 125 year old barn for several years thinking how nice it would be to have some of that wood for the front of the shack. And then one day as I was driving by on my way to my dad's house I saw where they were removing a bunch of the boards. It seems that some pf the foundation was crumbling and a lot of the lower portion of the structure needed serious work. The owner decided to remove all the boards, rebuild the foundation and reside the entire structure with new Hemlock boards. After some negotiating I was able to purchase enough boards to finally finish the front portion of my sugar shack. I threw in a couple bottles of my maple syrup just to seal the deal.

[VTnewguy]

Nice! It will have a nice weathered look to it.

[Lethalbowman]

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I had to remove the metal from the top portion and replace the 2X4 with a 2X6 that spanned the entire width to have additional surface to attach the boards to. Once I did that I covered everything up with 30# tar paper to create shadow lines once all the boards were installed.

[Lethalbowman]

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We had a little bit a rain for a while and some really hot weather so when things dried out and cooled off I decided it was time to get to work. I just leaned few of the boards up against the shack to see how they would look at 1st before really getting to work. I used hot dipped galvanized nails to attach all the boards so that I would not have to worry about them rusting in a few years. I don't know why some of these pictures keep changing orientation, they all look fine on my computer.

[Lethalbowman]

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After wrapping up some trim work I decided to attach the old moose antlers that I have had collecting dust in my pole barn for several years. They just seemed to add the final piece of the puzzle to this sweet version of a man cave. I still have several pieces of the old barn wood leftover so I may re-do the cupola next summer to dress it up a bit. If I ever find another source for enough similar looking boards I will finish off the other side but for now the metal siding works just fine.

[Wannabe]

Looks great!