Draw off

[Samuelvw1]

After my hydrometer reads the correct temp for syrup how much maple syrup do I let out of the draw off before closing it I don't want to let sap through somebody told me between 1-2 cups and how often and how much defoamer would I put in the pan and the reserve tap thanks In Advance and any other advice that could help me as well 🍁🍁🍁🍁

Sam
Shelton, conn
8 Gallons of sap going to be boiled down soon

38 spiles and buckets and

[blissville maples]

keep an eye on the change in bubbles in your pan, syrup bubbles are larger and drop into themselves versus pre syrup foam bubbles stay a consistant foaminess, as this line advances towards your draw the thermometer will dip below 219, time to shut valve. if using a hydrometer simply shut valve as it hits the line. you can stir your draw off pail and check the density of the batch you just drew. if heavy add some lighter sweet if light add some heavy say 220 syrup. however 5 gallons of 70 brix doesn't require much sweet to correct the density(experience). I shoot for 67. if for one reason or another hit 222 0r 223 or up past 70 brix, just draw below to compensate. test the overall batch and adjust if needbe. also cool some and taste it, you can tell when its not syrup by viscosity in your mouth. also if rely on thermometer, be sure to calibrate in your flue pan daily, should be 212 in boiling sap.

[blissville maples]

if your just at 219 or 67 brix, crack valve only a little, if temp or brix goes up open valve some, if temp or brix goes down shut it and give it a minute.

[brookledge]

First of all just so you understand a hydrometer doesn't measure temperature it measures density. That is why it is more accurate than temperature which fluctuates based on barometric pressure. Do you have a pan with dividers in it or an open pan. With an open pan you are better off making syrup in batches. If you have dividers then you can draw off a little at a time. Ultimately it is best when you can keep a constant flow coming off but that is not practical for the majority of us. Another decision you need to make is are you going to finish every thing on the evaporator or get it real close and finish on a more controled heat source such as propane. If you want to finish on the evaporator remember that the hot line is calibrated at 211 and if your syrup is different you need to ajust based on charts available. Or use a Murphy compensation cup by Smoky lake maple. Anyways check with the dydrometer and then if you have a thermometer make note of the temp and continue to let it trickle out until the temp begins to drop. Then wait until the temps goes back up and repeat. Another advantage of finishing in a small pot afterwards is some batches can be a little over and some can be a little under but adding all together and having a more controlable heat source will allow you to make a more consistant syrup
Keith

[rayi]

The worst thing you can do is draw off too fast. Nice easy slow draw off or you get what I call a porpoise effect. Big draw off then panic draw off before you burn the pan then it's over and over until you stop. Makes for a bad day at the maple shack

[wnybassman]

I start to slowly draw right when the temperature was right at where the hydrometer said it was syrup. A minute or two into the draw the temp would rise a couple degrees higher yet and I would continue slowly drawing until the temp drops a couple degrees below the "right" temperature. In every instance, when I went to finish and bottle, my draw-off syrup was a little heavy and I had to dilute it slightly to bring it back.

[Samuelvw1]

I have a open 2x4 pan I got a 12548 how can I make it work also I use a 2 propane burner with it I'm looking for a little guidance
Sam

[blissville maples]

before jugging check your batch and adjust to 67brix(my personal liking) and yes calibration of temp if neccessary, I never have a lot of crystal sugar in jugs, and never spoil. much agreed draw SLOW. I go with maple addict draw at 220 stop at 218.5ish. id rather be slightly heavy than light, higher brix syrup sticks to pancakes better anyways!! although last year I did start using hydrometer, I think its easier and more accurate as well obviously. syrup can be any temp, 22 degrees or 220 is still syrup!

[Samuelvw1]

You guys are talking about brix how do I figure that out I did get a new vt approved hydrometer my old one was not a approved vt hydrometer last year I used only a digital thermometer this is my first year using the hydrometer should I use both of them to be safe

Sam
https://www.facebook.com/SamandSons2/

[blissville maples]

brix just means density, density of syrup is 66.6 or there abouts I like 67. your hydrometers scale should be set in brix not temperature, usually there is a red line on hydrometer at 66.6 that's your syrup line. typical we say 219 degrees is syrup however as I said syrup can be 22degrees or 220, is still syrup, density is whats important. your hot test hydrometer is made to measure hot syrup right off arch, theres also a cold test, but syrup has to be at that test temp or you will have to use the calibration charts as brookeldge was explaining.

[Samuelvw1]

The cup the hydrometer goes into with hot syrup to test if it's syrup should be warmed up for the most accurate temp

[maple flats]

For several years I have run a "constant draw". When the density is correct (by temp, 7.1 degrees above what water boils at that day) I start a slow draw, if temp climbs I tweak the valve slightly, if it drops I tap the handle closed a little. I only shut off if the temp falls a full degree lower, or when it is time to reverse the flow. I get draws any where from maybe 30 minutes up to about 1.5 hrs (I reverse flow every 2 hrs if sugar sand is running high and about 3 hrs if it's not).
This year I am finally going to an Auto Draw.