View Full Version : Tapping Bits
Evets
01-06-2016, 11:04 AM
What's the difference between a tapping bit and a regular drill bit? Is it worth the money and/or better for the tree?
I'm just a backyard hobbyist but I want to make the most of my operation in the most responsible way.
unc23win
01-06-2016, 12:09 PM
The tip on a tapping bit is cut at a different angle and is designed to drill into frozen wood. A tapping bit will last 4-5000 taps before needing to be replaced. If you get one I'm sure you will find it worth the extra $.
I picked up a used tapping bit from a maple sugar maker / equipment dealer for like $4. They would use a bit until it took a few seconds longer than when it was new to drill a hole, then they replace it and sell the used bits to those like me who don't care if it takes 5 seconds longer to drill a hole. Works great! Faster and better than my ol' bit and brace that I used for 30 years.
WESTMAPLES
01-06-2016, 12:18 PM
The tip on a tapping bit is cut at a different angle and is designed to drill into frozen wood. A tapping bit will last 4-5000 taps before needing to be replaced. If you get one I'm sure you will find it worth the extra $. jared is spot on why a tapping bit is better suited for frozen maple tapping, its much easier use and they make a nice clean cut inside the tap hole. regular woodworking bit will work and is cheaper but does come with a lot of disadvantages in tapping maple trees
buckeye gold
01-06-2016, 12:23 PM
The best in-between solution I found is an auger bit. I bought one (5/16) at Lowes for around $10.00 and it is quick and makes a nice round hole. Also, the auger bit pulls all the shavings out with it. Don't pull your bit out, run it out with the drill reversed. I bought an Irwin brand, but I'm sure there are several good brands.
unc23win
01-06-2016, 12:36 PM
The best in-between solution I found is an auger bit. I bought one (5/16) at Lowes for around $10.00 and it is quick and makes a nice round hole. Also, the auger bit pulls all the shavings out with it. Don't pull your bit out, run it out with the drill reversed. I bought an Irwin brand, but I'm sure there are several good brands.
You do not want to run the drill in reverse for the best clean round hole keep the trigger down and pull it out. I use a piece of 5/16 tubing over the bit as a depth stop. Flipping the reverse button or any movement while the bit is in the tree can cause a hole to be out of round and your tap could leak. You are right auger bits are a nice in between for the $.
buckeye gold
01-06-2016, 02:51 PM
Jared, I wonder if the style/brand bit makes a difference. I actually had more trouble with holes if I didn't reverse, the bit would still be trying to pull into the tree and was hard to keep straight for me, and it seems the shaving came off the bit worse. I don't know if it matters, but I stop the bit before I switch to reverse then run it as straight out as I can. I am just finishing my fall season and did not notice one single tap leaking. I imagine everyone has their own technique and what works for them. I think the point is to be as careful as possible to not wallow out your tap holes as best you can. I'd be interested in some other peoples thoughts. Heck, I only drill a couple hundred holes a year, so my sample size is quite small compared to a lot of members here. If I can learn a better way I'm all for that.
unc23win
01-06-2016, 04:23 PM
You might be right about about the auger I haven't used them in a while. There is actually a good video on Lapierre website that Glenn Goodrich did he said keep the drill going and run higher speed.
BreezyHill
01-07-2016, 10:00 AM
What's the difference between a tapping bit and a regular drill bit? Is it worth the money and/or better for the tree?
I'm just a backyard hobbyist but I want to make the most of my operation in the most responsible way.
Tapping bit will be better for the tree as long as it is good and sharp. Sharp bit cuts the capillaries in the wood fiber rather than to tare them.
The angle of the tip makes for the best hole and no walking of the bit on the bark of the tree.
For best production under high vac you need a perfectly round hole that your spout will seal so as to have no air leaks.
Yes a sharp bit is fast than a not so sharp bit but; it is the hole quality that is of utmost importance.
Leaving chips in the hole can plug the spout and limit production.
I tap at constant speed in and remove the drill at less speed to limit hole damage. If you want to see how good of a job your tapper is doing close the valve to a lateral for a time. If sap is around your tap holes your seals are not very good. This can be spouts to deep and micro cracks in the bark, to loose, or a sloppy hole.
I wood, :) buy the tapping bit, store it in its plastic case in a dry location and not in the tool box. It will serve you well for many years to come.
Ben
Evets
01-07-2016, 08:27 PM
Thanks for the responses. I think I'll buy the bit and stop wondering if a regular bit is "good enough". Hey, it's part of the hobby after all.
ennismaple
01-08-2016, 04:02 PM
I second what Breezy said - tap on high speed (2 on most DeWalt drills) with the trigger fully engaged and pull out still at full speed. It probably takes barely over a second with a sharp tapping bit and the bit pulls itself in, no need to push hard.
psparr
01-08-2016, 04:10 PM
and the bit pulls itself in, no need to push hard.
That's one thing that takes some getting used too. Having never experienced a bit that sharp it takes some practice to not sink it in way too far.
maple maniac65
01-08-2016, 08:14 PM
Slip a piece of old 5/16 tubing over your drill bit and cut it off a one and a half inches tapping depth
psparr
01-08-2016, 09:00 PM
Slip a piece of old 5/16 tubing over your drill bit and cut it off a one and a half inches tapping depth
Will do. (And a couple more characters to be able to post this)
Evets
01-09-2016, 07:05 AM
Slip a piece of old 5/16 tubing over your drill bit and cut it off a one and a half inches tapping depth
That's a good idea. Previously, I had put a band of electrical tape around the bit at that mark.
buckeye gold
01-09-2016, 07:17 AM
Good conversation, there is always something to learn. This is something that probably gets over looked by a lot of people, especially hobby producers. I imagine it's not as critical for us hobbyist who are using buckets and bags as it is for people on vacuum. I could see it creating a headache for vac operations. If I get a little seepage from a hole with a bag hanging on it I'm not really so concerned. I usually have all the sap I need and some days more. So like a lot of things, it's relative value is different to each operators situation
maple flats
01-09-2016, 06:30 PM
A real (sharp) tapping bit has sharper flutes (the spiral) and thus cuts a cleaner hole which gives more sap, both initially and it does not heal as fast so the sap runs longer. The old saying I was told 50 yrs. ago about a sharp knife , cuts clean and heals quick is true if you get cut, but is not true in a tree.
1arch
01-10-2016, 12:04 AM
I had used a piece of 5/16 tube as a depth gauge however had trouble with the flutes not clearing the chips very well. I found a better solution was to grind a small scar on my bit detectable while drilling to use as a depth reference.
I personally prefer the tapping bits available since they draw in nicely with minimal effort and the resulting hole appears clean cut.
Given the high value of a good tapping bit compared to cost of a standard drill bit is considerable perhaps a solid side by side season long study on performance comparisons of different bits would be in order.
ennismaple
01-11-2016, 02:05 PM
I had used a piece of 5/16 tube as a depth gauge however had trouble with the flutes not clearing the chips very well. I found a better solution was to grind a small scar on my bit detectable while drilling to use as a depth reference.
I know that the bit projects 2" from the chuck of my drill and I eyeball the depth. No need to be accurate to the 1/64"! We're not building a Swiss watch!
Polish Wizard
01-11-2016, 04:40 PM
I plan to tap 10 (maybe up to 20) trees for my first-ever harvest.
I thought I could use a cheap hand drill since I don't own cordless power tools.
Do yinz guys think I'll have any luck with this type drill? http://www.amazon.com/Schroeder-Hand-Drill/dp/B0013YZRPU
My drill is not the same as the one pictured. I just copied the link.
Big_Eddy
01-11-2016, 04:57 PM
Rather than a hand drill, I suggest a brace with a 5/16" or 7/16" auger bit, depending on your taps. Won't take a minute a hole.
I plan to tap 10 (maybe up to 20) trees for my first-ever harvest.
I thought I could use a cheap hand drill since I don't own cordless power tools.
Do yinz guys think I'll have any luck with this type drill? http://www.amazon.com/Schroeder-Hand-Drill/dp/B0013YZRPU
My drill is not the same as the one pictured. I just copied the link.ii also use the tubing on my bit just make sure that you stop before you hit the tubing as after awhile you will start to round off the tubing which in turn oblongs your taphole
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