Stack questions

[CTsap]

Hi folks. Just ordered my new mason 2x3 and I'm doing research on how to set up stack. Hoping you guys can help me with a few questions.

My roof has pine sheathing. Is there some kind of sleeve that fits around this cut to protect the pine boards?

The mason just has an elbow at the base. What's the best way to suport the stack? I have 9ft walls and an 8 pitch so I'm guessing it needs some king of bracing.

I hear stainless holds up much better than galvanized. Can the roof jack be galvanized or does that age just as quickly galvanized stack?

I welcome any other advice on this process.

Thank you !

[Woodsrover]

I like and use Simpson Duraplus. Here's a link to their site for it (http://www.duravent.com/Product.aspx?hProduct=2).
You'll need a support at the rafters (or build a support if you don't have one already) and then a thimble where it goes through the roof. You'll want to run insulated pipe from the support and through the roof. Look around their site for typical installation.

What did you order from Mason? I have a brand new/never used 2x3 Hobby XL and I'm thinking its too small for me. Wish I had bought a 2x4 from him. If you're talking to him in the next day or two ask him if he has a 2x4 in stock and I'll buy that and sell you this one.

[CTsap]

Thanks for the info. I got the Mason through Bascoms so I could get it for the upcoming season...what is the xl model?

[Woodsrover]

...what is the xl model?

Four channels instead of three, reversible flow. I ordered the optional fan with mine too.

[Sugarmaker]

Use stainless pipe from the rig through the roof including the roof jack use triple wall through the roof and out. Get a good hinged rain cap also. Don't skimp on this stack and be safe. You don't want to burn the sugarhouse down.
Regards,
Chris

[1arch]

I have a 14" stainless roof sleeve extending 12" above my roof for my 10" stack which offers a 2" air gap. The stack pipe has a tapered flashing just above the top of the roof sleeve. As my rig heats up the stack expands > 1" inch which allows additional air transfer rising through the sleeve keeping my roof boards cool.
I have about 13' of stack before it enters the roof sleeve.
Whatever you do to attach your stack allow for expansion.

[lpakiz]

I do much the same as Ed. My 12 inch single wall SS stack passes thru a 13 inch roof jack (sleeve) and has the storm collar an inch or 2 above the top of the roof jack. Rising heat creates a cooling draft.
I centered the smoke stack with 3 "buttons" made from 10-24 screws and spacer nuts.

[Ghs57]

I used an adjustable roof mount for my 8" insulated SS flue pipe. This mount supports the weight of the flue, and is fitted with a jack w/storm collar. Metal roofing makes the whole thing weather tight. All clearances to combustibles are to code (2" to the pine roof sheathing for the insulated pipe, for example). Chimney is at least 2' higher than the highest point of the roof within 10'. The flue pipe came from Lowes, but I had to order the mount and jack on-line. They are all from the same manufacturer, although under a different "brand" when sold via the big box stores.

I also reviewed my set up with a local chimney expert. I wanted to be absolutely certain there would be no issues or potential fire hazards in my setup. One of those could ruin your whole day.

1232512326

[CTsap]

Great info here. Thanks for the picture Ghs57. How did you cut that opening in your sheathing?

My latest plan is to use 6" triple wall stainless through roof, transitioned to 6" singlewall to the evaporator. The triple wall will require a 10" roof jack. Still thinking of using galvanized on the roof jack. Not concerned with looks and I laughed out loud when I saw the price tag on a stainless 10" roof jack. Don't want to burn place down either so I'm still researching this. With this set up I can't see how much more protection the stainless jack will give me. Thoughts?

[n8hutch]

A galvanized roof jack will be fine. That's what I have. It definitely won't last as long as stainless but should still give you 25 years of service.

[Sugarmaker]

Nothing is low cost in this maple business. Even if you build it your self you have design and fab and material costs.
I did build my own roof jacks (3) and saved some dollars. The stainless came off bulk tank exteriors and liners that I took apart.
You might find a tin knocker near you that might save you some money. I have a Amish craftsman close by that makes what ever you want and a little lower in cost than the big maple suppliers.
Regards,
Chris

[Ghs57]

Great info here. Thanks for the picture Ghs57. How did you cut that opening in your sheathing?

My latest plan is to use 6" triple wall stainless through roof, transitioned to 6" singlewall to the evaporator. The triple wall will require a 10" roof jack. Still thinking of using galvanized on the roof jack. Not concerned with looks and I laughed out loud when I saw the price tag on a stainless 10" roof jack. Don't want to burn place down either so I'm still researching this. With this set up I can't see how much more protection the stainless jack will give me. Thoughts?

I cut the hole with a jig saw, then cleaned it up with a rasp. As it is a 12/12 pitch roof, I set the base angle on the saw to 45 degrees for the bottom and top of the opening. Otherwise, the cut is perpendicular to the roof surface instead of parallel to the chimney, which looks weird from the inside. I was extremely lucky when I bought the insulated pipe; someone had returned three 3 foot sections to Lowes, after they fired the chimney mind you, and the store marked it down accordingly. They will take anything back. I cheaped out on the single wall pipe and base stack; those are steel/galvanized, and will not last anywhere near as long as SS. The roof jack is also galvanized. I'll have to take a photo of the roof jack, which is tucked under the ridge cap on top. My chimney expert told me I could have used 6" pipe.

Interestingly enough, I can almost touch the single wall pipe when the rig is fired. The stickers on the black pipe did not burn off. This is because movement of air up the chimney occurs in the center space, not at the edges. I forget the physics of this at the moment, and also add the "don't try this at home" disclaimer.

[CTsap]

good idea to cut the sheathing at the pitch angle.. hadn't thought of that and may not have until it was too late. realizing now, I should have made this cut prior to putting the metal roof on. I'm sure these cuts (metal roof and then pine sheathing) is going to be a pain.

[CTsap]

Just talking with local stove shop. Turns out the they don't work too much with metal roofs. Trying to figure out how much clearance the metal roof needs from stack where it comes through (if any)?

[derekp]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160111/570714fee859befbde398d4d219932db.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160111/644673c377f57e812d26f74dae208676.jpg

I used a garbage can...i cut out all the wood roofing around the can and wired the can, cut at an angle, right up against the tin roof, which is cut out all the way around the pipe. This year I put some ceramic blanket around the top of the can just for peace of mind. The outside vent is just a simple one that you can get at any hardware store, tucked to top under the ridge cap

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[Ghs57]

I cut a "U" in the top of the roofing panel an slid it into place around the chimney. The cut out is the same width as the roof opening. This allows for ventilation up through the opening and out the roof jack. The roof jack also covers the cut out in the roofing. My only problem was I cut the "U" a little too far down the panel, and the roof jack did not overlap the opening far enough. So I cut a scrap piece of roofing to the correct the over-cut, screwed it on and put the roof jack over that and under the cap at the ridge. That's the silver piece of roofing in the picture. I'll have to paint it to match one day.

12405

[CTsap]

I like the idea of cutting a "U". I may pull the screws out of a panel, slide it down and to make both the U cut and cut through the sheathing.

What are people thoughts on running the stack through the roof on the side of the cupola, as opposed to behind it (like you typically see)? is this ever done?
Due to rafter spacing, collar ties, and the ten inch diameter triple wall, spacing will be tight to go through ceiling behind the cupola (although doable). I'm considering running the stack out to the side. I'm also considering orienting the evaporator across the width of the building (evaporator is only a 2x3). this will get more of the steam directly under the cupola and structurally its better because it will straddle the center foudation beam (wood floor). The cupola doors are approximately 6' long, I'd shorten up one door to about 5 feet so that I can run the stack close to the cupola but on the side.


trying to keep things traditional but also practical.

[Bucket Head]

It's not done often, but I have seen sugarhouse photo's where the smoke stack is going through the cupola roof. If it's easier, more cost effective, practical, etc.- why not?

[Burnt sap]

As a former tin knocker and having installed hundreds of roof jacks, thimbles, curbs ect,ect. I would recommend using a triple wall thimble, stainless will last your lifetime and more . Roof jacks are made for all pitch types so make sure you get the right one and a flashing kit. Use a level, plum bob or laser to lay out the opening remove all combustible material around the thimble penetration and for extra protection use 1000 degree insulation around the thimble. Don't skimp or half *** it you will regret it in the end.