I added my first 3/16 tubing

[maple flats]

Yesterday I removed some older 5/16 tubing on a steep slope and put up my first 3/16. I was using CDL tubing, CDL fittings and CDL & Stars taps. In the past when I put up 5/16 I just hung the tubing reel on the main and walked the path pulling the 5/16 behind me. I soon discovered this was not a good way with the 3/16. It hung up too easily as I wound from tree to tree, it seemed the tubing clung to the trees rather than slide along. That first line took a long time because I had to keep walking back and forth to advance the tubing. On that lateral I put in 25 taps on about 400' of line with at least 30' of drop below my lowest tap. For the next 2 lines I change my method and it worked very well. I put my hook connector on the 3/16 and attached it to the main. Then I carried the spooler and the tubing feed out perfectly. When I had gotten to the last tree, I simply pulled the slack out and attached an end hook to the line and ran the lateral around the end tree. I Added the drop and then followed the lateral to the next tree. If I had enough slack I cut the drop from the lateral, if not I added the tee and cut the drop from the spool. I repeated this until I was back to the last tree that was getting the 3/16 tubing. (the lower ones will get new 5/16) I then repeated the same process with a third lateral. In the end I put up just 3 laterals, used 1900 of the 2000' of 3/16 I bought and I had a 25 tap, a 29 tap and a 32 tap lateral, each with the ideal 30' drop after the lowest tap. I 'm not sure, but I may add another 2000' of this, I believe I have that much more bush with the 30' drop or at least 25' of drop below the lowest tap near the far end of the bush. Once I discovered that I could not pull the line from the spooler as I had with 5/16 all went well. I likely have enough good slope for another 60-80 more taps. While these are generally just replacing some old 5/16, I did add enough new taps that I had about maybe 20 new taps. The big thing hers will just be that my vacuum pump will simply be pulling from as many taps, the 3/16 portion will simply be injected so to speak into the mains.

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

The new CDL 3/16 grips trees really good so to me that is a good problem to have.

[maple flats]

I thought that too, but only after I switched to attaching at the main and carrying the spooler with me. I also liked the elasticity of the CDL 3/16 however that would only be advantageous if you make the drops as you go. I did not pull real tight as I walked the spool and then without any more that pulling tight at the end tree (and having the tubing grip the tree at the first sharp bend) I connected the end hook and cut a drop from the spool and attached it. Then I walked back to the next tree, pulled tight and made a drop from the spool. After a few trees I had slack to remove and then cut the drop from the lateral. This repeated all the way to the last tree I was putting on that lateral. I think the tree gripping and the elasticity will help keep the lines tighter.

[sugarsand]

Dave, I found the same thing when trying to pull off the spool. For me, it seems easier to start at the upper most tree and lay the line or lines out on the ground. If I lay out several lines before cutting them in, I can make changes or add trees that were missed. Sometimes I will take a distant out of the way tree that was intended for line A and put on line B as it may end up closer. I cut in and tighten as I go, using long electric staples tacked in lightly to hold everything where I want it.

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

I flag trees before running and start at top with end hook and work down the hill. I coil off 5 or 6 off one arm and then switch to other arm and do 5 or 6 coils. By doing it this way it cancels out the coils coming off of the same way and works same as using a tubing spooler. As I run it I keep tension on it and by the time I get to the bottom, it is nice and tight. Takes about 5 mins to run off 500' of tubing this way and it is tight.

I do stock vacuum gauges and brass connections for 3/16 and 5/16 tubing.

[DrTimPerkins]

The new CDL 3/16 grips trees really good so to me that is a good problem to have.

The 3/16" tubing that is "grippy" work well, but you just need to string it out a little differently than the 5/16" tubing, especially the rigid 5/16" tubing. You need to keep it (the 3/16" tubing) tight as you run it out rather than running it out loose and then pulling like heck to suspend and tighten it (like you would with 5/16" tubing). Just a little different approach is all it takes.

[dbeitz1891]

I'm currently running CDL 3/16th line and have encountered that if you really try to get it tight you will stretch it to the point that it slips in your tool. As my first year with 3/16 it's a learning curve, I've found that weaving in more trees between maples is better to keep it tight opposed to stretching it long distances. I contacted CDL about the issue and they said I was the first one that they've heard it's happened to, which I don't believe, but said it is my ownership for pulling it too tight.

I've also found running the line from the end tree to the mainline works better for me because I have a very steep gully to climb with each lateral. Hope this helps!

[maple flats]

Mine doesn't slip in the tool, because I don't use a tool, I use a "hot End System" and love it. I just insert the tubing end in the heater chamber, about 5 seconds, remove and it pushes on the fitting easily by hand and then it grips super well.

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

I'm currently running CDL 3/16th line and have encountered that if you really try to get it tight you will stretch it to the point that it slips in your tool. As my first year with 3/16 it's a learning curve, I've found that weaving in more trees between maples is better to keep it tight opposed to stretching it long distances. I contacted CDL about the issue and they said I was the first one that they've heard it's happened to, which I don't believe, but said it is my ownership for pulling it too tight.

I've also found running the line from the end tree to the mainline works better for me because I have a very steep gully to climb with each lateral. Hope this helps!

What kind of tool are you using? The 3/16 2 handed tool from CDL works great and haven't seen any slippage issues. It is auto tension and seems to grab really well as it has very deep grip channels. Used it a couple of times on 5/16 and seemed to work good with 5/16 too but I haven't used it enough to know for sure.

[jimsudz]

I ran my first 3/16 tubing last month. I was hoping to start at top and work down the steep hill,but the tubing D&G was too grippy . I would hook spooler on main and walk up the hill. get to end tree put on end hook and walk or slide down keeping taunt and then clip to mainline wire.D&G was too grippy ,CDL was a little less grippy and the Leader even less. I liked using leader the best and the price was a lot better. And I'm not a Leader fan. I did find that the streched D&G and CDL did slip in my tubing tool so I did have to adjust often. One issue that I may have is not enough taps per lat. I only have 8-10 taps on each 150 ' lateral. I'm hoping that this will not lessen my potential vacuum ,only that it will take longer to get to high vac.

[maple flats]

jimsudz, Time will tell, but everything I've read on 3/16 seems to suggest you don't have less than 15 taps and PMRC found that 37 did not negatively impact production.

[sugarsand]

Dave, your right on about the Hot End. Saves time and makes it easier to run tubing. One of my better sugaring buys. Found that when hooking up fittings in warm weather, all it takes is a quick dip of the tubing.

[dbeitz1891]

Brandon i do have the two hand tool made by CDL, I took the file to it once they said they would not replace it. Worked a lot better, but what bothered me was that it was only the one side. And sudz I'm running between 25 and 35 on every lateral. My lowest amount might be 15, but you're correct it shouldn't hurt you to have less just doesnt benefit you as much as it could if you had more on it.

[DrTimPerkins]

One issue that I may have is not enough taps per lat. I only have 8-10 taps on each 150 ' lateral. I'm hoping that this will not lessen my potential vacuum ,only that it will take longer to get to high vac.

That number of taps on a lateral with 3/16" tubing will work just fine.

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

Proctor says 4 or more taps on line will create vacuum. It seems to work fine for me with less than 10 taps.

[David in MI]

I'm pretty excited about swapping out our 5/16" tubing to 3/16" this year. The first year our collecting system was bags to buckets which isn't any fun at all on the slopes. 5/16" tubing helped us work smarter, not harder but our yield didn't improve at all. I'm really interested to see how much vacuum we get and how it impacts our yield. Speaking of vacuum gauges......

Everything I've read recommends that you place your gauges at the top of the run. I'd love to see a gauge at the top tap AND bottom tap as I'm quite curious about how much vacuum we'll pull at the lowest tap. Has anyone setup your tubing like this?

[lakeview maple]

12271 Installed today, I don't have the gauge at the bottom tho, and the duct tape is only until I get back up the mtn to cut in the drops, I for got the quick lock chain at the bottom of the hil.
I'm pretty excited about swapping out our 5/16" tubing to 3/16" this year. The first year our collecting system was bags to buckets which isn't any fun at all on the slopes. 5/16" tubing helped us work smarter, not harder but our yield didn't improve at all. I'm really interested to see how much vacuum we get and how it impacts our yield. Speaking of vacuum gauges......

Everything I've read recommends that you place your gauges at the top of the run. I'd love to see a gauge at the top tap AND bottom tap as I'm quite curious about how much vacuum we'll pull at the lowest tap. Has anyone setup your tubing like this?

[maple flats]

You really carry MacGyver tape with you?

[lakeview maple]

LOL , most of the time , its a darn long walk off the top and it comes in handy in a pinch

[SeanD]

I have a new spot I think might be good for 3/16" on gravity. It's a steep section with about 25 taps. The last few trees are right near the bottom, though. It won't have the long drop before the collection. Does that negate the benefits from the 3/16"?

[BlueberryHill]

I could be wrong, but you might want to be careful about putting a vac gauge at the bottom tap. I think sap could back up into the gauge potentially. I had some sap freeze in a cheap gauge once and wrecked it. Nothing a shut off ball valve would not fix though.

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

I have a new spot I think might be good for 3/16" on gravity. It's a steep section with about 25 taps. The last few trees are right near the bottom, though. It won't have the long drop before the collection. Does that negate the benefits from the 3/16"?

It will benefit greatly and still will get a lot more sap.

[SeanD]

Good. Thanks.

Sean

[markcasper]

Is there an alternative to buying a tubing tools for 3/16" just to try it out. I hate to spend the money on just a few hundred or less taps worth and also not to be able to use it for 5/16 which probably won't ever change. I know its a basic question and I really know the answer but want to hear what others have to say. Is the tubing warming gadget worth it, the one advertised in the maplenews and can be used for both sizes.?

[Big Stoney]

Take some 5/16" tubing and cut off a couple of pieces about an inch or so in length. Take your tubing cutters and cut a slot in the 5/16 tubing so that you can snap it on the 3/16 inch line then use the 5/16 inch tool. We have not had any issues doing it this way.

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

Mark,

The two handed 3/16 tool from CDL with auto tension seemed to work fine with 5/16. Don't even have to adjust it with the auto tension on it. Only tried it a couple of times but found no issues.

[sugarsand]

Is there an alternative to buying a tubing tools for 3/16" just to try it out. I hate to spend the money on just a few hundred or less taps worth and also not to be able to use it for 5/16 which probably won't ever change. I know its a basic question and I really know the answer but want to hear what others have to say. Is the tubing warming gadget worth it, the one advertised in the maplenews and can be used for both sizes.?
Mark, if you're referring to the Hot End System, it's easier and faster than a tubing tool. I wouldn't be without it.

sugarsand

[sugarsand]

The Hot End works on both tubing sizes.

sugarsand

[maple flats]

Mark, I third or forth that. The hot end system will be your best friend. I bought 1 last year just before tapping and after 1 day I ordered a second one so we could tap faster (I cut off the old tap and install a new one as I tap) I bought a second battery for each. In cold weather, (10-20F) I can get about 5 hrs on a battery, at temps in the 30+ I get 7+ hrs. I see they now offer a battery warmer but have not tried that (yet).

[markcasper]

Thanks, I'm going to check out the hotend?? warmerl. Why are there no dealers carrying them? or if there is I am unaware.

You still need to use the tubing tool with the hot end system? Use them in tandem with each other?

[Paddymountain]

12280
I ran my first 3/16 line today. There are 17 taps on some big road side sugars. They usually give 12-18 gallons per tap on buckets.
I'm looking forward to what they do on 3/16 tubing. There is about 25-30 foot of drop to my collection point which is down at my truck in the picture.

[maple flats]

I believe all CDL dealers carry it, they are a CDL product.
Correction, it is not made by or affiliated with CDL, I quickly leeked at the CDL leak detector case next to me and typed CDL.

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

Hot end system is an independently owned company with no dealers to my knowledge. They are a good product as I bought one last year and set up 120 taps on it and then sold it on the trader and set up rest with tubing tools. . I would rather have a good one handed and 2 handed tubing tool any day and don't have to deal with it on your waist, the weight of it and refilling it every little bit. Tubing tools are a lot faster in my opinion.

[maple flats]

I only need to refill mine about every 2-3 hrs. I adjusted the strap to as long as it would go and I carry it over one shoulder. I find it faster and there are far fewer micro leaks. With it last year I only found 1 micro leak all season in 1320 taps installed with it. There were other leaks from squirrel chews but even a 1 or 2 handed tool won't stop that unless the 1 hand tool is a pistol or the 2 hand tool a rifle or shotgun.

[johnallin]

Dave, do you have a company name for the hot end system. I started running some 3/16 tube today, I've got a 2 handed tool but this sounds like it's worth looking into.
Thanks

[sugarsand]

Flushtec Hot End System. I too found it easier to use, bandolier style, around the neck. Comes with a supply of glycerine that goes a long ways. My two handed tubing tool just lays on the bench collecting dust. Plan to use the batteries to power a couple diaphagm pumps.

sugarsand

[maple flats]

I still use the 2 handed and 1 handed tools at times, but when I have a lot of fittings to connect I always go with the Hot End System. I do pre-season repairs with the vHot end, but in season ones are generally with a 1 handed tool. Each seems to have their place.

[Locust Farms]

Made a 3/16 tubing tool, drill operated.
Yesterday am ran 250' 3/16 tubing cut in drops installed 24 taps. finished at noon. from noon to 4 pm collected 21 gallon sap.
sugar content 1.9 percent. Vacum at top end 14 inches. Approx 25' drop from top to bottom.
Installation was very easy ,tubing stretched adequate with hand pull. Much different than 5/16 usually use tensioner on 5/16.

Dwight