Polish Wizard
12-26-2015, 12:00 PM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=twWbSs8Bpws
I found this man's video about his test boil and thought it shows a lot of promise for my first attempt at sugaring this coming spring.
I plan to only tap 10 trees, so I don't want to get too crazy with building construction --- and I'd rather not be in the open air doing it.
His shack is created with tarps, similar to heavy 12x16 tarps I purchase from Sam's Club for use at our fire department (salvage operations, covering roof holes, etc) $25 for two.
If I go this route, I think I'll make my shack 10L x 8W, and 8' high walls. So far my thoughts for an evaporator involve something based on a barrel stove similar to his set up, and the 10' building length should work to safely accommodate the barrel plus walking room. Rough cut Hemlock lumber from a local Amish mill should make this a reasonable expense.
The property I purchased included a small pony barn with a sliding rear door. I anticipate putting the shack close to this sliding door.
I can use the barn for wood staging, sap storage, and any other idea I run into. It should also eliminate the need for enclosing the entry-side to the shack.
As you step into this proposed structure, the prevailing wind should blow from left to right.
I'm considering ways to create an opening along the roof to serve as a natural vent for steam dispersal, using the wind for assistance. (Hopefully the wind direction cooperates.)
Any comments or suggestions?
Some other things in the video that caught my eye and make me wonder:
-Should 6" flue pipe be sufficient? If I want to stay above the roof line, the flue needs to be at least 12' tall. I think I'll make 45-degree bends instead of 90's.
-I like the way he supported the flue on the outside of the structure, using fence post.
-Any idea how he created the pre-heater?
---Looking at the male/female crimp connections for the flue make me wonder how he built it.
---Did he install a coil of copper tube around the existing flue, and then add larger flue pipe to enclose the copper?
---Looking at his preheater, would a copper coil need to be extremely tight to the flue, or will being enclosed be enough to warm the fresh sap?
---Or did he do something else?
-Has anyone used a Coleman stove to preheat sap, and did it work well enough?
I found this man's video about his test boil and thought it shows a lot of promise for my first attempt at sugaring this coming spring.
I plan to only tap 10 trees, so I don't want to get too crazy with building construction --- and I'd rather not be in the open air doing it.
His shack is created with tarps, similar to heavy 12x16 tarps I purchase from Sam's Club for use at our fire department (salvage operations, covering roof holes, etc) $25 for two.
If I go this route, I think I'll make my shack 10L x 8W, and 8' high walls. So far my thoughts for an evaporator involve something based on a barrel stove similar to his set up, and the 10' building length should work to safely accommodate the barrel plus walking room. Rough cut Hemlock lumber from a local Amish mill should make this a reasonable expense.
The property I purchased included a small pony barn with a sliding rear door. I anticipate putting the shack close to this sliding door.
I can use the barn for wood staging, sap storage, and any other idea I run into. It should also eliminate the need for enclosing the entry-side to the shack.
As you step into this proposed structure, the prevailing wind should blow from left to right.
I'm considering ways to create an opening along the roof to serve as a natural vent for steam dispersal, using the wind for assistance. (Hopefully the wind direction cooperates.)
Any comments or suggestions?
Some other things in the video that caught my eye and make me wonder:
-Should 6" flue pipe be sufficient? If I want to stay above the roof line, the flue needs to be at least 12' tall. I think I'll make 45-degree bends instead of 90's.
-I like the way he supported the flue on the outside of the structure, using fence post.
-Any idea how he created the pre-heater?
---Looking at the male/female crimp connections for the flue make me wonder how he built it.
---Did he install a coil of copper tube around the existing flue, and then add larger flue pipe to enclose the copper?
---Looking at his preheater, would a copper coil need to be extremely tight to the flue, or will being enclosed be enough to warm the fresh sap?
---Or did he do something else?
-Has anyone used a Coleman stove to preheat sap, and did it work well enough?