Evap piping

[epd0407]

Looking for experience on this one. We are starting building our sugar shack this weekend. Im faced with a decision with regards to the stack. If I go straight out of the arch and go straight out the roof, im looking at a fairly substantial run of double wall stack pipe. The cost of the piping will be almost what the shack is costing to build. I understand this is the "best" way to run it.

My other option is to run a short piece horizontally .. Maybe a foot or two and go out the wall of the shack then turning up.

If I make the horizontal run will I see that much of a difference in the boil?

[regor0]

Wouldn't you want the pipe to be higher than the roof line either way? Straight up is the best way to go.
I have single wall pipe going straight up through the peak. Then I built a box out of archboard where it is within a foot of the rafters.

[epd0407]

You obviously came through at an angle ? Ide love to see photos of what you built so I can get some ideas?

[maple flats]

If going out the wall would require 2' of pipe, how close are you to the wall. You need at least 36" unless you protect the wall. Then when you get outside you still need 36" unless that is also protected.
I would never try to go out horizontally, it would reduce the draft considerably. IMHO up is the only way.

[MISugarDaddy]

Have you considered single wall up to near the roof area, then double wall from there the rest of the way. That is how we ran ours and it works great and would save you a lot of money. They make adapters for going from single wall to double wall.
Gary

[epd0407]

Clearances are my problem, I never thought of 36 on the outside which is a no way. I did think about the single wall up to the roof but then I need 36 from the rear of the arch which kills my space. I guess my answer is stomaching the bill for double wall all the way. :-(

[BreezyHill]

My rig is in the basement of a 30x 72 metal building the ceiling is wood floor with a 36" boxed area in the joices where the steam and smoke pipes come thru. I run a stainless 8" transition to a flex elbow to a 5'x8" at about 45 to another flex straight up another 4' to another flex and out the metal wall's adapter plate. This has worked for many years for this 2x6 and for a 5x16 and a 2x6 that was a finishing rig prior to getting an RO.

Arch board is a plus and we do run air under fire and soon to add air over. boiling rate runs from 35-44 depending on wood and operator. 12001

In the pic you can see the 10" collar thru the metal siding on the ceiling. This feeds warm air into the room cools the 10" collar. Collar temp is usually around 110-118.

The sack does get plenty hot. The section at an angle melted a strip in it some time during the end of season. Didn't notice it until last day of season. Never smelled any smoke. Can find the pic of that yet. But no smoke = good draft. Next season she will be sporting new stainless pipe in that section.

I am not a fan of double wall...didn't last on the outside wood furnace for a single season. Warrantied it 2 times and then they just refunded the $$$. That is a well casing now with about 12 years and still going strong.

I like the stainless for the evap and that transition was only $80

[Biz]

I am curious as to the effect of horizontal piping. On my half pint with 55 gal drum homemade arch, the stack had 3 elbows and a horizontal run of about 4.5 ft. Total stack length of about 15 ft not including the elbows, and I could get flames shooting out the top of the stack fairly easily. 6" single wall stovepipe, no blower, draft through opening in door. Possibly a long stack length offsets the effect of the horizontal run (and elbows)?

Dave

[BreezyHill]

Biz, Correct. Some where there was a chart that showed how much height was needed for the length and width of a stove based on the stoves cubic feet of size.

I am sue that one of the producers on here has seen this chart. It was in a book my dad had back in the early 1980's or late 1970's. I remember measuring the 5x 16 with the pans of and measuring the draft door opening and him showing me how to look up how many feet of height we needed.

The other thing is we have an old wood stove from the early to mid 1900's from MW. It has a six inch stack and there was about 8' of flat before entering the chimney for a 8' rise. This stove always had two dampers on it as it would roar like a train even with the drafts closed tight.

Our old steam system only had a 3' rise on 24' of flat and it pulled like crazy. The flue pan preheater is in the pic. Off the hood flat to the wall for two passes of 8' flat and up 6' of pipe and out. I need to go to 8" above the tee to draw the front better I think. To much condensation on the new metal ceiling for me.

[SeanD]

Clearances are my problem, I never thought of 36 on the outside which is a no way. I did think about the single wall up to the roof but then I need 36 from the rear of the arch which kills my space. I guess my answer is stomaching the bill for double wall all the way. :-(

You are allowed to cut the required clearance in half for every inch of air space added between the heat and the combustibles. So if you wrap your single-wall with an oversized cheaper stovepipe, leaving a 1" gap between the two, you only need 18" clearance.

You can also achieve the same effect by shielding the outer wall with sheet metal, leaving 1" air space with bolts.

Either option is not as pretty as double-wall pipe, but it is a whole lot cheaper.

[buckeye gold]

I have single wall pipe going straight up through the peak. Then I built a box out of archboard where it is within a foot of the rafters.


I done this, too and it has worked well for me. when I went through the box and roof I wrapped the pipe with arch blanket and slipped a bigger piece of pipe over that.



So if you wrap your single-wall with an oversized cheaper stovepipe, leaving a 1" gap between the two

On my wrapped pipe you can lay your hand on the outer pipe where it goes through the roof. I also had a local welding shop make me a roof jack with stainless steel pipe the goes 2 feet above and two feet below the roof. The lower section is wrapped with the larger pipe over it. The rest of my stack is regular single wall stove pipe.

If you insulate your pipe all the way down and add a piece of spaced metal or concrete board on the wall you move that arch a lot closer to the wall. I assume your arch is insulated too. You can do all this cheaper than buying double wall insulated stainless.