Oil reclaimer

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I'm looking for a oil reclaimer to attach a Delaval 75. Anyone know of any used reclaimers for sale? Thanks.

[BreezyHill]

Are you sure it is a 75? 75 has its own oil reservoir and using a reclaimer is rather tricky with the 73 and 75 pumps.

I can explain if you are sure that is what it is.

Ben

[cropseyvillemark]

I'm with you Justin. I'd like to cut down on the smog from my 75.

[BreezyHill]

Since these two pumps have a built in reservoir that holds the oil that oils the bearings the reclaimer has to have an adjustable stand. The oil level of the reclaimer needs to stay within the operational oil level of the reservoir. To much and the pump will make poor if any vac as the oil will block the exhaust. To little and the pump seizes. The drain port of the reservoir will have to be the connection between the reclaimer and the pump.

The reclaimer must have a sight tube for oil level and a drain. Flooding the pumps with an oil injector is easy since the oil will come trough a filter system. Ideally the connection between the drain and the reclaimer will have a filter on it; and filling the system is done through the reclaimer. The filter best suited for this application is a diesel fuel filter with a water separator drain on the bottom so that any condensation in the pump will drain to the filter at night and be drained often.

If this filter system is not available then one needs to not use the standard steel wool in the reclaimer for a filter/condensation system and use stainless steel screen material as the surge reclaimer uses. This is less efficient but is less likely to get contaminates into the oil from the filter media.

I have a reclaimer for our 75 on the to do list for my son when he is on winter college break but it may not make it to the top since the 75 is not going to be used for a couple of seasons now.

Propane tanks are great reclaimer bodies. For a 75 you will want a 20# bottle or larger.

I use a massive reclaimer that is about 30 gallon steel tank with the steel wool media and a filter cartridge. It has adjustable legs to fix its height. The exhaust was clean from a 75 and 73 running piggy back last season.

This season an Alamo 100+ will be the main pump as we are doubling the tap count. Standby will be a M3

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Yes, it is a 75. Clear tag on it. It's getting honed, and the original metal vanes are in good condition too. I thought about a propane tank or an air tank for a reclaimer. What height should the reclaimer be? At the same elevation as the built in oil reservoir? I would figure two copper tubes for oiling, one at the shaft and the other at the vacuum inlet. I didn't see the reclaimer in the photo, but I see the two pumps together. Nice.

[BreezyHill]

I will need to get a pic of the reclaimer...sorry thought it was in that one.

Leave the oil to the shaft as it is. This is not a normal pump at all. That line is feed oil that is double screened and needs a short line to get the flow rate that is needed. It feeds the bushing and the vanes oil. A line from a reclaimer will have more friction due to its length and thus reduce the flow. The setup last season had the 75 with a flood line just prior to the inlet and it was making a good amount of vapor.

Metal vanes are great. They dissipate the heat better and produce less than Kevlar vanes.

the oil level of the reclaimer needs to be at the same level as the top mark of the dip stick on the 75. To much and you have limited air space to the exhaust. Too little and she will get hot fast.

18" of 1/8" copper tubing is enough to cool the il from 198 to 40 in 40 degree air.

I like the pumps to run around 180 to not over 195. Past 195 and she can heat up more really fast. You can see the box fan in the pic. It is on a temp probe to turn on at 195 and off at 185. You can get a string of LED lights on ebay for $10 to hook up and use as an alarm. Temp unit was $5 and relay was around the same. Only came on during 65 plus degree days.

This is what a surge reclaimer looks like inside.

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These are far easier to clean; but the welding of a piece of flat stock all the way around both halves of a propane cylinder is a PITA.

The bolt is to the flange ring to lock the top and bottom covers together. I can get a pic of the outside if you need.

If you are using air under or over the fire; suck the exhaust from the reclaimer into that. That is what I will be doing in a future redesign.

The surge/Alamo reclaimers are mounted right on top of the pumps providing good air flow. They do use a sight glass and a temp gauge with over 200 being in the red. This is the temp of the oil leaving the reclaimer to feed the drippers.

Only use copper lines...NO plastic!!! It melts! Know a guy that seized a pump in sapping that way. and several dairy pumps that went down with that issue.

You can get the copper at Home Depot (HD). Fittings there too. Drippers off ebay. Scored a case at under $5 / double dripper setup.

Clean the drippers before every season. One spec of dirt will fry a bearing. Carb cleaned and one of those magnetic parts trays from harbor freight for $4 is perfect. Take out the needle the glass tube, both rubber seals and flush with cleaner and reassemble. Change oil annually if using small volume or every two to three years if a large reclaimer. My reclaimer is 5 gallons so I go every two season if the oil looks and feels good. If it is not good then it gets changed. I use Tractor Supply Blue vac oil. Keeps the pumps cooler and designed to vaporize at 180. Water separates fast and at $17 a g its fairly cheap. Sucks when you need 6 to fill the pumps and the reclaimer but. Cheaper than spending 3 hours honing a pump and rebuilding it top to bottom. Look closely at the pump pic and you can see what happens when she spins a shaft. That was an hour fix.

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Okay, thanks Breezy. If I'm understanding you correctly, just one 1/8" copper line out of the reclaimer to the vacuum inlet. Connect oil reservoir outlet to the reclaimer (would use black iron pipe). A spin on fuel filter (on black iron pipe) before going into the reclaimer? (I would figure on the outlet copper tube, but okay). I'll keep the shaft lube copper tube connected in the stock version without modification. Plumb in exhauset into reclaimer side (above oil level) and exit out top. Also weld in a sight tube for oil level.

I would use a 20 lb. propane tank or a air tank of the same size for a homemade reclaimer.

Kinda lost you on the talk about drippers, only on the Alamo, not on this 75 setup, correct? Thanks!

[BreezyHill]

Close...exhaust goes in the top side of the reclaimer so as the air flow will circle around the outside of the tank unless you do it the Alamo style. Alamo feeds from the bottom.
outlet of exhaust from reclaimer is center pipe that is within 2 inches of the oil level so as to cause oil droplets to impact cooler oil. Outlet is at least double the area of the inlet to slow exit speed and not draw oil up the outlet tube that condensates on this tube; but will drop off the bottom edge. An angle cut on the outlet tube is beneficial to increase condensation.

The very best reclaimers will have a steel wool condensation area above the oil level and the end of the exhaust tube. These are supper efficient in cleaning the exhaust. The oil reddened air has to find its way thru the steel wool and cools the air scrubbing the oil out of the air as it pass thru.

Black iron for plumbing is good and a single dripper to feed the inlet of the 75.
11993 This is how I ran my 75 last season. The 1.25 galv pipe goes to the reclaimer. The reclaimer was not hooked to the pump and I added about a quart of oil every 6 hours of run time. There was ice in the bottom of the reclaimer and it kept plugging the oil filter. So I had to bypass the reclaimer and run this way.
11994 This is the point where the filter was attached with the valve to allow for changing the filter. Sight tube is in back ground and a new 2" clear poly hose is on the bottom for water separation by opening the valve on the end of the house. 2" long so it will warm when the pump is running and allow for drainage. 12" original was fine in a dairy facility that is warm but my metal building stays cold and was not thawing.

Use the valve on the end of the propane tank for the hole for water drain. Hole saw other end for exhaust outlet, hole saw with a 12" x 1/4" bit will make the angled hole nicely, and make the size of your exhaust on your pump. Then use a rubber belco clamp to connect the two. Way cheaper than a union and will reduce the vibration factor.

If you can slope the line back to the pump this is good on a 75 since the oil will go to the reservoir and balance to the reclaimer. All other pumps this is bad as the oil will interfere with the vanes and can cause hi heat issues with a large volume of oil in the pump reducing your cfms and making heat.

On other pumps the exhaust needs to get to the reclaimer inlet height and slope slightly to the reclaimer or a short pipe straight to the reclaimer.

On high vac you want as short a pipe as possible since there will be only a small amount of air passing thru the pipe after vacuum level is reached. This is when the pump is running hotter but the limited amount of air will have more oil vapor thus the need for a short pipe to minimize run back of condensated oil.

Feel free to post or email your design idea and I will take a look and suggest any needed changes. A tiny design error can be the difference between success and a failure. Been there done that....very frustrating and time consuming!!!

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Okay, going to start fabrication work on a 20 lb. propane tank for a reclaimer. I just took the valve out. Need to put my hands on some couplers, filter body, and get the mig out!