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K.I. Joe
06-28-2015, 08:34 AM
Ok My set up is all clean but I am having a hard time getting the discoloration off the divider in the flue pan. All the rest is fine, Any ideas. The area above the waterline is the problem area. I dont think that I want to fill the flue pan fully with cleaner? I dont think the pan could withstand this amount of liquid.

maple flats
06-28-2015, 10:23 AM
On my 3x8 (3x5 raised flue) I accidentally left the head tank valve open once and when I discovered it several days later, the float valve had actually allowed it to fill the pan. It was over the partition, by about an inch. I had water in the head tank, not concentrate. There was no damage to the pan. I later discovered that a hemlock needle had gotten stuck in the valve allowing it to keep leaking into the pan.

GeneralStark
06-28-2015, 12:12 PM
The cleaning instructions printed directly on my flue pan say to fill the pan to the top with water or permeate and cleaner and let soak. This is what I have been doing though I don't use acid. I usually have a fire in the rig to warm the water before letting soak over night. Then I scrub and drain and pressure wash and repeat.

maple flats
06-29-2015, 06:54 AM
Interesting to know GeneralStark, my pans had no such instructions, but I can see where the pan would easily support that. Each flue on the pan is narrow with a 90 degree bend at the top and bottom and that gives lots of strength to the unit. However on my unit, I have 10" flues and an 8" partition above that and another 6" to the top. Just calculating the space above the flues I figure it would have about 1080#, not counting the water in the flues. I'm not quite sure I'd try that much in mine. I may pose that question to Thor Equipment, who made my pans, maybe it would be fine. It sure would aid flue pan cleaning.

Moser's Maple
06-29-2015, 07:53 AM
Interesting to know GeneralStark, my pans had no such instructions, but I can see where the pan would easily support that. Each flue on the pan is narrow with a 90 degree bend at the top and bottom and that gives lots of strength to the unit. However on my unit, I have 10" flues and an 8" partition above that and another 6" to the top. Just calculating the space above the flues I figure it would have about 1080#, not counting the water in the flues. I'm not quite sure I'd try that much in mine. I may pose that question to Thor Equipment, who made my pans, maybe it would be fine. It sure would aid flue pan cleaning.
Dave we have an Algier...which is basically a thor. our flues aren't quite that large, but our raised flue holds water to the rim just fine. I get more worried about the arch supporting the weight vs the pans holding the weight....oh I almost forgot that our back raised flue is 4x8

maple flats
06-29-2015, 11:43 AM
Yes, I understand there is a connection between the former Algier and the current Thor. They do make nice pans.
At one time a guy from Algier was trying to get me to become a dealer by then the company crumbled from within.

K.I. Joe
06-29-2015, 06:40 PM
Thanks Guys, I will try filling it to the rim.

Tweegs
06-30-2015, 08:01 AM
This is the first year I’ve tried this and I’m pleased.

Filled the pans with the last of the last sap, just up over the scum line not to the top.
Let it sit until this weekend.

Drained it off, hosed it out, a light touch of a scotch-brite pad got what the hose wouldn’t.
Pans are like-new clean and spent less than an hour on them.

In years past I’ve filled the pans with water up over the scum line, added vinegar, fired the evap until I just cracked a boil. Shut it down and let it sit overnight.

In my opinion, both methods cleaned the pans equally well, but less time was spent using the sap method overall.

Getting the creosote off the bottom of the pans is another matter. Oven cleaner and a pressure washer is the best advice I’ve been given. Filthy job, that one there. Wear old clothes.:lol: